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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
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Well whats the best?
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Feb 18, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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With the amount of sh#t that I own, both old and new, pretty much anything that fits the crack.
I'm over "what's best" and question anyone who tries to tell me differently. You'll figure it out over time.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 18, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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If I was starting a new rack right now I would buy a rack of Totem cams. I have one set already, and will slowly upgrade. The new independent side technology involved makes them hold better in more placements and they don't walk like all the other cams, they seem to lock in place. I do wish they made them in the larger sizes as Black Diamond rules the roost in the 3,4,5,6" cam sizes. Totem cams are made in Spain I believe, and not China.
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Crillz
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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The ones fitting the best?
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Feb 18, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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The best cams are made in the USA, not China or Taiwan. Metolius is still producing gear in Oregon. Which means that environmental laws and workers rights are being followed and protected. As climbers we hold ourselves to silly standards and rules which we don't break. WHy don't we hold ourselves to the same standards when it comes where and by whom our gear is sourced from? I think it is about time!
Metolius
New England Ropes
That is about it for NOT made in China (that I know of)! I am sure (hope) there is more!
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
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Cool. I have a rack of BD c4s and metolious masters and tcus, but I cant decide if I'm just buying into commercial bullsh#t.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 18, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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i use
made in the USA
METOLIUS...
super cam
master cam
power cam
offsets
and my made in the USA
Metolius harness..
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 18, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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I own about all brands of camsand climb on a lot of them. For Christmas, I bought my son some old used 4 cam u stem metolius cams dirt cheap and had metolius resling them.
I can afford the best. Anything I want. The lad is just starting trad climbing.
Maybe that tells you something.
For myself, the totems are preferred, but they only go to 1 Camelot size.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 18, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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DMM Dragons and Demons are extremely well-made and (unless Wales moved) NOT from China.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 18, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
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Everything I have is made right here in hell ....
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 18, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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I buy whatever I can afford and usually used off Ebay. I have gotten some great stuff of there at dirt cheap prices.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
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Robot cams, wild country, trango, totum cams?
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apogee
climber
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Feb 18, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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I can tell you what I'm not going to be buying anymore...Black Diamond.
I'm transitioning to new cams...got a couple of Dragons recently. Haven't used them enough to gain a solid impression, but they sure are purty....
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Why the sudden change of heart about BD?
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Feb 19, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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Aliens in the finger size pieces- they work amazing in pin scars and fit well into finicky thin cracks from micro tips to big fingers
Black Diamond cams from ring locks to offwidths. They're light and easy to use. The #6 and the #5 are the best big cams on the market.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Feb 19, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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BD big cams are too narrow. Go with a big friend & you'll never be sorry.
The Camalot wants to turn, to twist out. The big friend has a broader base.
#6 WC Friend. Very nice.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Feb 19, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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Thats right. There are no rules! Were hippies!
Thanks Locker! I forgot.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 19, 2012 - 09:48am PT
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my standard rack: 2 green aliens, 1 yellow alien, 1 yellow metolius, orange metolius, red, grey aliens, 3/4 BD, orange alien, #1 BD, clear alien (#1 size), double BD #2, single or double BD #3 as needed...
supplemented with black, blue, aliens, red metolius, 4 & 5 BD as needed...
but this is just for fun, as stated by others, all about personal preference, and you discover your own really without thinking about it...instead, when selecting just a few pieces for a route, after a while your preferences become obvious...
I love aliens others hate them...
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