Fall Highball and Buttermilk Work Party Nov19

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Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 17, 2011 - 08:03pm PT

Hey, KA, you could still attend on Saturday and add some colour and history, maybe grumble a bit about the good old days. The mob of younger climbers often really appreciate the perspective.

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2011 - 08:07pm PT

In my attempt to ameliorate my faux pas

C'mon out on Saturday at 9:00 AM and ameliorate with some heavy lifting. Inyo National Forest will be conducting the work party. If I tell you what they have in mind, I'll have to shoot you.
Hope to see you there.
We'll have some coffee, maybe some pastries, and certainly work to be done.
Fred

MH
so you're coming too?
nawwwww.....I don't think so. Not all the way from Vancouver
eh?

doughnutnational

Gym climber

its nice here in the spring

Nov 18, 2011 - 09:12am PT

I don't agree with Andrew on the crowds but I do love pads. Although I never bouldered as well as Andrew I probably neared his level of skill in falling. Now that i'm 50 + pads allow me to try problems that I might have been willing to fall off of sans pads at 20, but that would probably cripple me now. The young people certainly haven't turned soft due to the use of pads, and they allow the old people to continue falling off of stuff other than low traverses. Kevin V0- Ludwig

tom woods

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Nov 18, 2011 - 09:54am PT

The crowds come and go.

After an empty summer up there, I sort of like to see people.

After a crowded winter, I like it when everyone leaves.

For the clean-up- are you guys going to have that motorized rock tractor thingy?

If so, I'll bring my three year old.

KabalaArch

Trad climber

Starlite, California

Nov 18, 2011 - 12:09pm PT

High Traverse,

Sorry, but heavy lifting is no longer in my future, due a multi-level lumbar compressive fracture gone bad. Snapped my spirited bouldering career to an untimely end, too, since every time you fall, you hit the ground.

This trauma resulted from a 3 foot fall from a sit down start; a hold broke, I couldn't get my feet beneath me, and landed with force=mass*acceleration squarely on my tailbone.

I've typed up a post, for a future deployment, as soon as I decide whether I'll do more harm than good with some pretty candid disclosures. I do, however, think it's important to get the word out regarding the popular sit downs, because I would not wish what I've been through on anyone.

And since I haven't been able to enjoy bouldering in more years than I'd care to admit, any stories about back in day will have absolutely no credibility, since I'm no longer in a position to suit actions to words.

But here's 2 short ones:

One upon a time, Scott Burk and I were goofing around, and found ourselfs atop the Terror Boulder at twilight. The descent off of this highballish involves some 5.9, and everytime I downclimbed a few feet, I'd get the shakes, and have to return to the summit to collect my nerves. Must have been contagious, because the same thing was happening to Burk - probably because it was getting pretty dark by then. Fortunately, he had a rope stashed in his van, and his g/f tossed us an end of it, or we'd still be up there!

Most of the bolted leads out there were established in the spring of '83 - that winter was so heavy that Tioga didn't open until July 4, stranding the Valley regulars on the Eastside, where they'd normally overwinter as Ski Patrol. Such circumstances led to the discovery, and most of the route development, of Whitney Portal, and the Benton Crags.

When new crags were discovered, they were referred to in code - "Area 51" for example - until we were satisfied that we'd accounted for all the low hanging fruit. (the results of that season led to the publication of Erret Allens' Eastside Guidebook)

Anyway, before I was interrupted by one of my multiple personalities, one Saturday, a group of us loaded up my PU for the day's sport - destination Benton. Stopping at the Shell station on the road out of Mammoth, Tommy Klienfelter and co. sauntered up to us, and inquired as to our plans. Our response was non committal at best.

So we drive the 30 miles or so out to the Crags, and break into teams to establish some more FAs. I'm about half way up one route, when I look west to the dirt approach road and notice a dust plume headed our way fast.

Soon, Tommy and his friends were at the base...and the cat was out of the bag. They had followed us all the way in from Mammoth, taking care to stay just out of visual range!

Errett and I named out route Locals Only...and this puts my old school territorial instincts into something resembling context. Speaking of old school, Sport Climbing had not come into Easstside acceptance yet, and so the leads of this epoch are pretty sporty.

Yes, I love the 'Milks - so much so that that's where we chose to build our house. But it's true that this is also Bishop's Central Park. Probably the worst off road offenders are in fact Starlite teenagers.

Chinchen

climber

Way out there....

Nov 18, 2011 - 02:49pm PT

My biggest peeve is people camping around the Birthday turnaround. I usually ask them to move. Some signage at the beginning of the spur would be cool.

jfailing

Trad climber

Lone Pine

Nov 18, 2011 - 03:13pm PT

My biggest peeve is people camping around the Birthday turnaround. I usually ask them to move. Some signage at the beginning of the spur would be cool.

Hopefully people won't start camping next to the new toilets...

Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber

Retired to Appalachia

Nov 18, 2011 - 03:30pm PT

jfailing

Trad climber

Lone Pine

Nov 18, 2011 - 05:09pm PT

Buttermilk bump!

F10

Trad climber

e350 / Bishop

Nov 18, 2011 - 06:17pm PT

395 is currently closed between Independence and Big Pine

[IN THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA AREA & SIERRA NEVADA]
IS CLOSED FROM INDEPENDENCE TO THE JCT OF SR 168 /IN BIG PINE/ (INYO CO)

DUE TO A DUST STORM - MOTORISTS ARE ADVISED TO USE AN ALTERNATE ROUTE

Check with Cal Trans for updates

http://www.dot.ca.gov/cgi-bin/roads.cgi

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT

Beautiful starry cool NOT cold night here at the PIT. Coffee at Peabody's parking at 08:30 tomorrow. Work party 9 to Noon. Party at Mill creek station at 7:00. John Long slide show. Core Shots band. Beer ID WILL be checked. $5 donation. Raffle with some big prizes. CU there. 395 is all clear

klinefelter

Boulder climber

Bishop, CA

Nov 19, 2011 - 08:25pm PT

@KabalaArch: In reference to your story about some clandestine activity in the 80's involving the Benton Crags -- I've never even been to this area, much less recall any of the events described (though it sounds like something I might be inclined to pursue). I believe you might have me confused with another Tommy.

Anyway, cheers to all that helped at the 'Milks.

F10

Trad climber

e350 / Bishop

Nov 20, 2011 - 12:20am PT

Fred, aka High Traverse I heard your story tonight at Mill Creek regarding your accident, glad you are ok

I am sure everyone else would like to hear it, better for you to tell it. But like Largo said,
"one must not fall"

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

Nov 20, 2011 - 01:10am PT

KabalaArch - Any Mammoth bouldering stories? Sorry about your back.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 20, 2011 - 01:12am PT

Work party 9 to Noon.

Even at the FaceLift, we put in a minimum of 14 hours. Plus walk uphill to and from Camp 4, in waist deep garbage. :-)

Photos, please?