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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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I like going out and having fun climbing
Speaking of which, good times today at the Sads man!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Explain why using a hand drill instead of power makes it trad....
Just because.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Start from the ground and don't use aid
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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John you are my Hero!
All those motordrill toting, pansy whipped sackless fifi pillow biters can enjoy hell from the Poofter's Froth.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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.I don't care how you do it but put up solid routes that others will want to climb.
Personally, I don't really give a damn if anyone wants to climb my routes or not...
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Then don't bolt them.
See, this is why I lose friends over convos like this...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Then don't bolt them.
Exactly!!! Now tell that to the poofter's
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Whether I bolt them or not is irrelevant - I don't climb for other people and I'm definitely not into 'community service'. Don't like them, don't climb them.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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I respect the nerves of steel, skills, judgment, etc. it takes to create a climb ground up. This gives the community material for dreaming and spiritual inspiration, reinforces an ethical position to identify a sub-tribe with which to associate one's self to reinforce a sense of acceptance or belonging, and creates a specific challenge that requires something more than crimp strength and gymnastic prowess to overcome.
I also respect folks who set aside egos to rap a route and bolt in a way that considers how and where the leader would want protection, and makes a safe climb for others with well-placed bolts. This serves the community in a more tangible way.
There is room for both, as long as they're not squeezed too close together.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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"...a safe climb..."
I can't think of a worse epitaph for a climb and certainly wouldn't want any of mine labelled as such.
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ruppell
climber
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don't chop it
add bolts to it
leave it alone
or knot
carry on
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Healyje, you must have a really small penis.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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more of the same nonsense...the guy who sews his way up a crack with a cam conga line--he's got balls. The guy who bolted easy climbing on lead from good stances, or solid hooks--a hero. the guy who onsights a sparsely-bolted rap-placed route in siurana--a sport climbing pansy.
the term "sport-climbing" is generally meaningless today, imo. there are well-protected climbs, and runout climbs--and death runout climbs.
How about "trad" classics that had fixed pins at their cruxes? Were those "sport climbs" bitd?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I like to rap bolt X rated scare fests. With the bolts at the easiest terrain and the runouts at the cruxes. That way the hard trad dudes have very dangerous climbs (because that's what climbing is all about) and everyone is happy.
I use a hand drill because I don't want to fall with a heavy power drill with a sharp bit ready to impale me.
I'm influenced by sport and trad. And it's sort of in between those, really. They're like sprad climbs, really. Or you could think of it like spray and rad too!
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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A trad route is a route that can be climbed clean. Trad means that the route could have been led with traditional means, i.e. pitons, and now cams and nuts. If the route was first climbed with "safety bolts", then it NOT a trad route.
You say that so confidently, and yet... lol
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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In some areas, such as designated wilderness, hand drills are the only way. Your choice as to if it's on rappel or ground-up. Cast off into the unknown with a couple of hooks and rely on your skills for an experience you will not soon forget, or choose the easy path, rap in and it's done. It's all about the struggle.
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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If it was bolted on lead, especially OS lead, it most likely has poorly thought out bolt placements that are too high for the vast majority of people I climb with (under 5'4").
Bullsh#t, just an excuse.
And a weak one. We've all been on plenty of rap bolted sport routes with poorly placed bolts.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Locker is spot on. Lose the ego. Its funny you put up a route you get sh#t. "Oh that bolt is way to close, what a hack" A climber halfway up realizes he/she is on a rapbolted route and then yells to partner, "Sh#t, this was rapbolted, better let me down, I'll climb that 5.6 instead cause it was put up on lead." Partner replies, it says in the guide they put it up with a power drill." Leader replies "Damn it. I need to feel hard when I'm climbing , is there anything put up with bolts gu drilled from a stance and are quarter inch buttonheads listed, make sure it says no power drill was used In the defacing of the rock." It takes the partner a moment to find the perfect climb, then says, "there is a 5.6 to your right that says it was put up the pure way." Leader, "thank God I should of checked how this was put up, it looked fun and I must admit this climb is awesome and difficult but the style is not me, hurry up and get me down before someone sees me on this "poofter"??? route."
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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hurry up and get me down before someone sees me on this "poofter"??? route
BWHahAhaHAaHAh!1@!@#12$!
This thread is back on track, it was wallowing in Poofterville for a few pages, now we are getting to the bare bones.
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