Who are the grandfathers of modern Eastside climbing?

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The Alpine

Big Wall climber

May 11, 2011 - 11:54pm PT

Didn't the Happies blow up after that infamous mag cover of the chick in the bikini?

Anastasia

climber

hanging from an ice pick and missing my mama.

May 12, 2011 - 12:05am PT

Rearick and Kamps

Jerry Dodrill

climber

Sebastopol, CA

May 12, 2011 - 01:35am PT

Vern told me he climbed all that crap on the tablelands in the 70s. They just didn't report it. haha. Who can deny it? I love that guy.

Yafer

Trad climber

Chatsworth, California

May 12, 2011 - 02:08am PT

Chuck Pratt

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

May 12, 2011 - 02:59am PT

I wouldn't doubt Vern fired a bunch of that stuff. Neat dude. Wish I spent more time talking to him when I met him.

I only got two words

Milk Toast Chimney

it's on the list. :)

kakazhu

climber

May 12, 2011 - 03:08am PT

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ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

May 12, 2011 - 03:27am PT

Who started bolting the Gorge?

Touches on something I always wondered - - Who first bouldered the dreamers etc on Sherwin Plateau (west of owens river)? I stumbled upon it in like '88 or something while getting firewood, and yeah saw chalk, mainly traverses across the face(s). Later I found intricate growing systems and plants close by, and actually drying the product out on the rocks at times. Scared me silly.

climbbjj

Social climber

Tahoe

May 12, 2011 - 03:50am PT

"A lot of those tablelands climbers aren't big talkers strangely enough, that's why someone else wrote the articles that got the word out on the Happies and such."

Yea I'd been going to the eastside to climb at OWG and buttermilks for a couple of years in the mid 90's right before the big explosion of people at the happies / other volcanic chossomeness.

About a year before that, I got my hands on a crude guide from (I think) Mick Ryan.

Just after the national radar blipped on the tablelands I took a trip down from tahoe (with the all new polished guide, IIRC) and while at the obligatory stop at Wilson's before setting up camp, I asked an employee about the place and that was their response. That Peter Croft and other people had been going there for years and years, and if it wasn't for the current anti-bouldering scene at Hueco, the table lands would have remained in semi-obscurity.

climbbjj

Social climber

Tahoe

May 12, 2011 - 03:59am PT

"Didn't the Happies blow up after that infamous mag cover of the chick in the bikini?"

Indeed:

http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/gallery/90s/index56.html

I can't make out the date. Late winter 1996? I had a copy, but I tossed a stack of about 100 copies of climbing and R&I from the mid 90's and onward a couple of months back.

steelmnkey

climber

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...

May 12, 2011 - 09:35am PT

That cover was December 1997

sexy rexy

Trad climber

mammoth lakes

Jul 21, 2011 - 01:13am PT

john bachar, vern clevengers sh#t is scary, galen rowell.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Jul 21, 2011 - 02:42am PT

Can't believe no one mentioned Don Jensen.

Nice mention of North Buttress of Merriam peak Chief! I can't wait to get on that some day...looks fantastic.

the kid

Trad climber

fayetteville, wv

Jul 21, 2011 - 09:18am PT

the list is long..
i spent many a day with John driving around the hills and dirt roads looking for tufa boulders and solos..

Trifle towers- Airtime 1986

overit

Trad climber

Boulder

Jul 21, 2011 - 09:53am PT

Erret Allen did a lot of the early bolting at Clarks, ORG, etc..

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Jul 21, 2011 - 10:47am PT

In 1971, I went to the Palisades School of Mountaineering for a week. Most of those instructors/guides, as some names such as Smoke have been mention, receive my vote.

As for one name mentioned in a couple of posts, how can somebody a bit younger (couple of months) than I am, be called a grandfather, especially when his lack of weather skills almost got us in deep shite back in 1976. It was my skills as a mountaineer that led the three of us out of the situation over Lamarck Col and territory. Not his, a man who would stab a 'friend' in the back, as I found out later.

Apologies, but that is my two cents, with a bitter aftertaste.