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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:56am PT
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Salt lake is an easy choice over Boulder. Flag over SLC and Boulder.
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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Perhaps my sarcasm doesn't translate too well in text.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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Do you mean that the locals aren't friendly?
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Bowser
Trad climber
Red River NM
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
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How about Durango?
It has tons of climbing all around like X Rock, East Animas, Golf Wall(sport). Moab is close too.
It has warm summers, and cold winters. It is close to the desert, close to some great high mountains (San Juans), has great fishing and kayaking.
Durango Mountain Resort and Silverton for skiing is close. Snowmobiling and back country skiing is close too. Also close to Ouray(Ice)too.
It also has a college, great micro brews, big city amenities, entertainment...
OK I,m moving.
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Gilwad
climber
Frozen In Somewhere
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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Mal, that was a super fun day, and I know you won't let a little thing like a lost body part interfere with our expanded repeat effort, psyched for it, lots of new sports to add in there!
Boulder is of course the best climbing town in the USA, and a good candidate for the best sports town in the USA also. But many of the same problems that plague Salt Lake (it's a city) are a real issue in Boulder; traffic, air quality, quantity of people, etc., Boulder is now really part of the mega-city on the front range of Colorado. I've lived in Salt Lake twice, I'd say it's the best overall "city" to live in if you're a climber/skier/paraglider pilot, but the winter climbing options are weak compared to Boulder.
Canmore is the best climbing town in Canada. Squamish for granite climbing, but it's a swamp for a lot of the year, and everyone gets all excited there when they can go climbing in the winter. Definitely more good climbing days in Canmore in the winter than in Squamish if you like to climb anything including ice. Come to think of it, I'll bet you can rock climb more in November-March in Canmore than in Squamish, chinooks rule.
"Mountain sports" towns are another story. Ouray for that in the US, Canmore in Canada. Paddling and skiing redefine things pretty quick too, as does access to wild places. Surprisingly, I'd say there is more "wild" around Salt Lake than Boulder, just less people hitting it, and so much terrain.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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you just keep telling yourself how bad L.A. is. Skiing & surfing the same day - that really sucks. It rained yesterday so I can't boulder at stoney point for a few days - I'll just be forced to go to Malibu or somewhere in the Santa Monica's. Oh I just got back from 4 night in Yosemite that sucked. JT is about 2 1/2 hours away. The southern sierra's start about 11/2 hours from here. & it will be about 78 at my house today. By the by climbing ain't a sport. Some people turn it in to one. It is a way of life. Suicide should be about perfect today. The best part is that the mormons are lost is the crowd. So I'll boulder in Malibu this morning & have fresh shrimp on the beach this afternoon. Man that is going to really suck. Fresh snow on the mountains this morning - maybe I'll ski instead. But don't forget L.A. SUCKS.
Boulder has my vote - to many people from L.A. in SLC. not to say anything about the mormons.
Oh & fresh fruit & veggies - two farmers markets on sunday & one on thur. all within 4 miles of my house.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
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hey Malcolm, that's a cool list. I bet you could still do all of those, and then some.
I've lived in Hell A my whole life(almost fifty-seven years), and it does suck. The only reason I stayed was because of economic opportunities, and family obligations, but, I am ready to get out. I like Flagstaff a lot. Flag is kinda centrally located. A days drive northwest gets one to the Sierra. Red Rocks is four hours, so is IC, and Ouray is what? Five hours. I like the Tahoe area, but lack of ice is a detriment.
SLC sounds interesting, that might be a possibility.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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if you have to drive for more than 1 hour (kind of arbitrary and duration probably too long)) to go climbing, it is not a good place to live for climbing as it is unrealistic to get out afterwork.
the next criteria would be weekendable excursions.
another factor is weather.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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Stop it!
Go home.
We've run out of virgins!!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
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Thanks Mal for recounting the basic story line. It's an excellent adventure.
Gilwad, when is round two? Inquiring minds want to know and all.
Would figure skating, speed skating and hockey be 3 sports?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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Gilwad, when are you going to spank Lama? He's on your team.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
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Jim,
Will and I talked last week about Lama.
He gets it for sure.
Don't get on his case, he's on your side.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
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Miami or New Orleans.
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:05pm PT
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A lot of the SLC negatives go away if you live in the Summit Park-Kimball Junction area. Not many mormons, and no inversions. You aren't much further from the cottonwoods as you would be from the Avenues, and you have great mountain biking and skiing out your back door.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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The best climbing town is the one having the most fun.
There goes Salt Lake out the window.
Seriously: the winter inversions in Happy Valley are Really Noxious. Fritz' photo doesn't do it justice.
Many times I've looked down into the valley from the Alta area and it was like looking down on California coastal fog. Except it doesn't clear for days and nights on end and it's NOT fog. Don't take a white car. In the winter you'll be able to draw graffiti with your finger in the soot on your car.....3 days after washing it. Even living up on the East bench where I grew up doesn't get you high enough to get above the hydrocarbon soup.
Summers however are great. So you could spend summer in Patagonia and summer in Salt Lake and get the best of both worlds. As you know, there aren't any big peaks (in a climbing sense) in Utah. A few around Little Cottonwood Canyon, Lone Peak, etc. 12000 feet max. Very few routes longer than 4-5 pitches. Some great ice climbing of course.
I'm not going to rant about the local religion/social mores/politics. It does become very tiresome for a rational being. And you can be proud of the new "State Firearm", the Browning .45 automatic pistol. The only state in the Union with a state firearm. I can think of 3 or 4 states that could jump on the bandwagon.
Forewarned is forearmed. Keep your arms clean and loaded.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Jan 31, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
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Reno certainly has a lot going for it climbing and access to a lot of great stuff. Not to mention it's affordable, dry and reasonably comfortable in the summer. I initially discounted it because, well, its Reno. But then you start studying the map...
SLC sounds sick but ive never climbed there. The Wasatch kind of looks like a small range with lots of people close by (?)
Boulder is cute and all but...... nevermind, I'm on an iphone.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
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Swill layer from Little Cottonwood Canyon a couple weeks ago. Even strong storms aren't enough to cleanse out the valley of the smog. They just pass right over the top of the cap.
Cough cough...must...cough...get...cough cough...to Boulder...
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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Brian: Great Photo!
I have added a red arrow to your photo.
Is that sideroad off of Little Cottonwood road, where the LDS Genealogy records are stored in a "underground time-enduring granite vault-for the ages?"
I assume that area is still "off-limits" to climbing?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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Yep. Church Buttress. Was a sad climbing fatality a number of years ago (Mark McQuarrie) that may have contributed to its closure to climbers.
Straight across from the GWI is this place:
http://perpetualstorage.com/about
We're so oppressed here. Help!
I just wish I could take away a cold, strong beverage from my favorite brewery...oh wait, that's right, I don't live in Colorado...(ha ha).
Cheers!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Thanks for the smog/soot pics. Now I can taste it in the back of my throat again.
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