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strangeday
Social climber
The O.C. baby!!
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Jan 26, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
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New toy 5.6 not a super classic or anything, but it's fun
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CLG
Trad climber
Carmel, CA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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1. "Flake route" on Intersection rock. Chimmney to start, moderate hand jams in middle. bolted face climbing at end
2. "Headstone" route 5.6 but absolutely thrilling for a climb of that grade
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gonamok
climber
sez me
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Jan 27, 2011 - 01:51am PT
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a couple more:
The Deviate
Bong Along
Right Ski Track
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jan 27, 2011 - 02:04am PT
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I've never seen anyone else recommend Orange Flake out at Sheeps, but I thought it was a great multi-pitch. Much better than Right On.
I'll second Hex Marks the Poot.
Continuum is also great, and The Dolphin is out there too.
Hobbit Hole is a kick ass boulder problem in that difficulty range.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 27, 2011 - 02:17am PT
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FOTE HOG
Best Multi pitch route of it's grade in the park.
A bit cold at times, especially at the ice box belay.
What about leaping leaner on Locomotion rock? Fist pimpin in a great corner.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jan 27, 2011 - 10:32am PT
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Oooh, I forgot about Leapin' Leana, great crack.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 27, 2011 - 10:46am PT
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headstone sw corner, and cryptic
and I always liked that multi pitch route on saddle rock, easy and goes to the top. Great adventure for beginners.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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Another interesting one is Penelope's Walk on the Cyclops 5.5
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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I want to second The Dolphin. It's clean and a good intro to climbing wider cracks. Bring something wide for the top (size?) if you're new to the game.
I too found that the 5.6 route on Headstone was heady.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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I was going to say, I haven't heard of a good 2/3rds of the routes Todd mentioned. My list (but nothing really new):
Mental Physics
Dappled Mare
Fote Hog
The Eye
Walk on the Wild Side
Upper Right Ski Track (nice altitude and summit for the grade)
Double Cross
Double Dip
Headstone
Double Dogleg
Tiptoe (short but really fun)
Sail Away
Hands Off
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Jan 27, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
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I just recently went to Josh for the 1st time last fall and found these 3 routes to be a good introduction to the area.
Headstone, SW Corner 5.6 and a lap on Cryptic 5.8 since you are right there.
Saddle Rock, Right On 5.5
Fote Hog, 5.6
After climbing the Headstone we walked across the dessert to Saddle Rock to climb Right On and came across a large desert tortouise. Very cool.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 27, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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Boot 'n Rally... for shure!!
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jan 27, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
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Penelope's Walk? I hate any 5.4 that makes me back off...
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Jan 27, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
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Climbing out of bed ! is not one of my top 10 "easy jt climbs"!
It's in Hidden Valley campground.
Knaug and hyde
Who's first
We dive at dawn
Duchess
and a bunch more around Indian Cove
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jan 27, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
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Anybody mention Moosedog Tower yet? Except for that one move turning the roof, this is a fairly straight forward route that is reasonably easy to protect.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 27, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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Anybody mention Moosedog Tower yet? Except for that one move turning the roof, this is a fairly straight forward route that is reasonably easy to protect.
You don't even have to do the roof, which is a bit of a grunt. You can climb up the face to the right with the occasional nut for protection and it still doesn't exceed 5.6 or so.
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pleasantOs
Trad climber
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Jan 27, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
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night solo "right ski track" 5.3?
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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Todd, thanks for those..sounds like some new advetures to be had there, specially with your disclaimer
some new classics or bunk......best find out for yourselves........
Although I'm obviously looking to repeat some old classics with the rookie, something fresh is always welcomed!
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, CA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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black tide was the wished for name of an unfinished route...
Stichter quits was the name chosen by them who finished...
and it is 5.6
anything that can be climbed without hands, is not 5.7
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Jan 27, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
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Pinky and the Brain on Todd's list is way fun. If you're going to do Dolphin, its right around the corner.
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