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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 18, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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Chingadera. I never met or knew Bob Kamps. But boy I sure wish I had. Holy sh#t that guy must have been an animal to put that up on lead. Truly one of the Gods of face climbing. I belayed Murf last October, and he styled it. On top-rope I thought it felt downright desperate through the last two bolts. Its really funny b/c I've climbed a number of boulder problems that are rated "V3" or "V4" which is supposed to equate to 5.11–5.12-. But they all felt 5.9 in comparison.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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May 18, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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How do you all think Chingadera compares to Rebolting Development? It's been many years since I was on either, but I remember Rebolting Development feeling much harder, or maybe that was because I was more scared.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 19, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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Rebolting cruisable? I tried it in EBs when I was young and bold. 1st pitch was fine. I was with I think Andre and Bob Critchfield, who backed off the second at that hard clip. I went up and tried and couldn't figure out how to let go and clip that (second?) bolt. I've done harder but still haven't been back.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 19, 2012 - 10:51am PT
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i did chingadera years ago, but around the same time as valhalla. i thought it was a good deal more difficult than valhalla.
i came away thinking it was one of the most impressive bits of single-pitch stance drilling i'd seen from that period.
and i can't remember now which bolt it was, but there was one bolt where the stance was really thin-- i can remember thinking about what it would've been like to drill there.
what a remarkable climber. i always thought we were really lucky to have kamps still with us and still active. rip
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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May 19, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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IMO, Rebolting is harder both technically and mentally. You can't really take any sizable falls on Chingadera, whereas you can on Rebolting.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 19, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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If you want to climb a 5.12, do what everyone else does. Find a "well bolted" sport area with soft ratings, then find a 12a that suits you and project the hell out of it.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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i've sort of tried that, jim, with appropriately named geezer at echo, a real nice 5.12a. we toproped it and pretty much acquitted ourselves, toproping, and if it were worth it i'd go back and try working it and eventually, after doing it in my sleep a few times, manage some sort of french lead.
but after i mentioned that to a real hard climber, the immediate, merciless dictum was, "that's the easiest 5.12 in southern california".
no short cuts to glory. my problem has always been the big italian culo gene which came through, but which you might have missed.
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Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
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May 19, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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Led it onsight with a first-time belayer in the mid 80's (at the time, was more nervous about the belay than the route). Wasn't aware of any reputation or history at the time.
Curious how hard it compares to leading Valhalla- I got past the first pitch but never could bag the crux of the 2nd pitch. Maybe more smearing skills involved there?
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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May 19, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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I climbed this route in the mid 90's with one of the people on this forum.
after reaching the belay I called "take" and cut loose on the rope. I started whipping down the face and immediatly grabbed the rope. I looked down to my buddy grabbing the rope and getting his belay device clipped on quick as sh#t. This is one of my closest calls. Evrything happened so fast
Quick reflexes saved my life that day.
My buddy never sportclimbed and assumed that was the end of the pitch and took me off belay. Pretty much my fault.
Had a real close one last year-almost smoked
E
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 25, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Kamps chose Cortinas because he had very small, very wide feet. He took a size 5EEE. Cortinas were one of the very few, if any, shoes that were available in that size.
It's been a long night and I didn't read all the previous input - so excuse me if this is old news.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Love this thread for the history, stories and people here. I knew and climbed with Bob at Stoney. Yesterday I decided to do a Bob Kamps memorial ascent of Chingadera, which I had never done before. Went for the onsight and got it!!! My first 11 onasight at thaquitz!!! It sure was thin, but everything was there ad I felt like it was always a few moves and then a stance where I could regroup and plan out the next bit. There were a 2 sections where I started up with the wrong sequence and had to down climb back to a stance and switch things up but I got it done. I can't compare the grade as I have not climbed a lot of 11 slab/face. Didn't seem too hard though just a few hard crimps and some funky body positions. I had to wander around a bit to find the best holds and all I keep thinking about was bob in his hikin boots up there. It kept me goin even when I had doubts. Really f*#king impressive what he did there in 1967! RIP Bob we miss you.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Matty .... very nice, shoulder is getting better now?
Bob is watching.
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