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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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While on the topic of obscure single pitch "yur probably gunna die" aid routes...
Does anyone know anything about an aid route on the south side of fatty boulder?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Does anyone know anything about the aid route 5m to the right of Creepshow on the Cacodemon?
Campbell guide 1985 didn't have it listed. I have it drawn in in pencil with a question mark in mine from the 90s. Ask Maddaloni - he will probably know.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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ryanD is stoked he has aids
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yep, its true- I always thought I'd get them from Luke but at least he came to watch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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Hahaha! Sweet!
Fixed gear bump! Thanks for the PM Scrubber! I'm gonna kill me some staples this year ;)
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Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
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I found 2 cams on my rack that don't belong to me. Climbed at Penny Lane on Saturday Feb 2. Describe them and I can get them back to you.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Well, .... there's two of them, uh.... they have curvy wiggly things on top, and uh... when you pull the little bar down all the curvy things move at the same time. And oh yeah! the webbing on them is different colours. They must be mine. :)
K
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I'm gonna kill me some staples this year ;)
Big Mike to you mean the kind that show up in the playmate's stomach?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hey Luke, speaking of obscure aid routes, did you ever get around to doing Amphitheatre on the Apron? Or is it on the agenda for this summer?
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Hmm, what is this "Amphitheatre" of which you speak....
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hmm, what is this "Amphitheatre" of which you speak... Ancient, long neglected aid route left of Snake. No doubt would go free today, with some work.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aid route on the Apron? Now that's interesting.
I imagine someone aiding Banana Peel. The hook he's on pops and...
...and he lies there on the low-angle slab for a while, then stands up, ditches the aiders, and walks up to the top.
But Amphitheater? Have to go look that one up. (Although climbing it at this time of year would probably be more like amphibian theater.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Whoo Hoo! Found it. In the Holy Word of Gordie Smaill, Book of Apron, Page 74, Paragraph 2:
Amphitheatre
first ascent: Tony Ellis and Glenn Woodsworth 1965
time: four hours
5.3 A2
Arrive on the Stage via Gringo a-go-go or Snake. Start off the left side and free to the overhangs above. Nail the leaning corner above to a hanging station on steep slabs. Work up and right to the final overhanging corner. Hammer up it to easy slabs above.
equipment: Knife blades up to one inch.
Can't believe I never tried it.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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iirc Amphitheatre isn't much different from Gringo-a-Gogo, at least at the old aid crux.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Amphitheatre and Gringo are entirely separate lines. They cross each other, but otherwise are completely different. Both are very old school. No power drill rap bolting on either route. No wussy cleaning either! :)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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No power drill rap bolting on either route. No wussy cleaning either
And no bolts on either route! Go for them, Ghost!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 01:58am PT
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Lets get this thread back where it belongs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 03:09am PT
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Absolutely right Dave. Sorry for my slackness lately. I've been getting caught up in the void of the taco when I have much more important things I could be doing.
How about a little photo essay?
Kyle is very happy to clip the first bolt on "Over Fourty"
Toque was gone by the second bolt so you know he's serious.
Going for some powder courage
No RP this time!
Getting back on the horse
Ummm where is the next bolt?
Oh there it is. Way up there?!
Still not there yet?
Please let me clip this bolt!
Damn that was far!
That has to be at least a 16 foot runout.
Getting to the anchor isn't trivial either...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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Morning bump.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
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Guesses about the route pic at the top of this page?
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