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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
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Nope. Left of those.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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how did Fred do the second ascent(using the direct variation) in 1959 if the first ascent was done in 1962?
Fred did a different route from Mutch/Baldwin. Just which of the several cracks Fred did is still uncertain, I believe.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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1959 is a typo by Marc B. Correct date is 1966.
Uncle Fred reported "Math Crack" in the 1967 AAJ, page 366. Info courtesy of MH.
On a positive note,you guys likely did the "Math Crack" variation anyhow, as it is slightly more direct. If so, you did a Beckey route.
Glenn. What is uncertain is how UF et al reached the base of Squamish Buttress, above Broadway in 1959, but it was definitely not via S Arete. In the 1967 AAJ he acknowledges that Math Crack was a variation of an existing route.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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Hey cool history boys, Hamie- why didn't u guys go direct up that sweet crack? Especially if it was only 5.4 :-) I think S arête is the most under rated climb on the apron. Much more interesting climbing than Calculus at the same difficulty, I guess the 8' of OW keeps the crowds at bay.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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Glenn. What is uncertain is how UF et al reached the base of Squamish Buttress, above Broadway in 1959, but it was definitely not via S Arete. In the 1967 AAJ he acknowledges that Math Crack was a variation of an existing route.
Agreed. But he climbed something....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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MIKE, THAT PIC OF KYLE IS ON THAT FACE CLIMB LEFT OF BURGERS N FRIES AND I HAVE CAPS LOCKKKKKKKKKEDDDDDD
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Looks right of B+F to me
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Oh ya foot in da GRAVY!
Edit - nope that's left
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY HOT CHERRY BENDOVER PICTURES THEY WOULD LIKE TO SHARE? MY SPANK BANK IS GETTING OLD AND TIRED
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
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WELL KID COMER, IT DEPENDS ON YOUR PERSPECTIVE DOESN'T IT? KIERAN'S LEFT OR SUPERTOPO CREEPERS RIGHT I GUESS........
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Peaches and Cream is the only route worth talking about on that crag.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Hey Hot Cherry Bendover is for sale if any u OG's got an extra 3/4 mil layin around? It even comes with a house!
I don't think that house has been on the market recently. Are you getting it confused with the red house at the end of Plateau Dr. with a 20m cliff in the backyard?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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Comer is right. Right of burgers.
So the direct roof exit to south aret is "math crack"?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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I'm not sure Relic, just what a friend told me. Are there climbs in that backyard on plateau?? Would be so cool to own a cliff!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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Shotgun first 10+ fa on Ryan's private crag!! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Ha! I wish, I'll set u a 6 move FA in my garage if u want tho!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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Nah no climbs on that red house's cliff. The owners are super lite.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 18, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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Well I might as well flog this old nag some more. Here is a pic taken in 1962, with the route marked, also in 1962. The words were added recently to help Marc B with his new guide.
Ryan, we didn't do the "sweet crack direct' as the crack on the right was easier. Max 5.4! The bolt referred to by MH was placed later, we used a bong at the top of that section. UF probably thought initially that he had made a FA because he did not see any pin scars. We only placed 4 pins in total, with 2 of those for belays. and 2 for pro including the bong. A single pin was deemed enough for a belay, or for a rappel. [Today some climbers spend more time setting up a station than they spend on the pitch! You need a PhD in mechanical engineering.] Of course we slung lotsa trunks, branches, roots and bushes instead.
When we reached Broadway there was a monster wind blowing [a Squamish wind]. We settled down on what is now called Memorial Ledge for a couple of hours, til it died down. We may have been the first people to visit that spot. Years later I remembered the ledge and the boulder, which coupled with the fact that Jim and I had spent some time there, all made it the obvious place for his plaque. Some time in the afternoon, when we were on Squamish Buttress we made vocal contact with Glenn and his brother Bob. They had just made the 2nd or 3rd ascent of Diedre.
8 or more years ago my friend Aaron Kristiansen [late of Castlegar, now of Squish] and a partner spent a few days cleaning SA, also thinking it was a Beckey route. He was really pissed to hear he had cleaned one of mine [and Jim's] by mistake! Thanks again, Aaron.
It's amazing what you can learn when you turn over a rock......
Happy Birthday to Fred!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EDIT Uploading this photo was chronically slow tonight. I almost gave up , but didn't want to disappoint everyone. Ha Ha.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 18, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Math Crack is merely a derivative.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 01:44am PT
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Clearly Math crack is not = to Calculus
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