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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 12, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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200% not Squamish
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 12, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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OK. I may delete this post later, but Jim B., I thought that was funny.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 12, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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500!
Speaking of which, does anyone ever do the Whistler 500 anymore? It's a very obscure roof crack just south of Whistler, just above the highway. It's pretty awful.
Bah tami you snaked me!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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Sorry - I'll try to get back to the origins and development of climbing in the Little Smoke Bluffs later. The "other things" I'm apparently supposed to know something about. Not starting with Satan's Slit, as it happens.
There are many interesting boulder problems in Murrin Park as well as a 70 ft cliff on the NW shore of Browning Lake called the Sugar Loaf, which is a favorite practise area. There are also many good problems to be found among the boulders at the base of the W wall of the Chief massif. The cliffs on the E side of the town of Squamish also make excellent practise grounds.
 Who said it, when?
What implications has it for later historiography?
(Sorry, tricouni and hamish not eligible to enter. And it's Mutch, not Multch. Sheesh! His photo of YPLS in 1965 is awesome!)
Edit: Nope, not RR.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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was it royal robbins, 1971?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 12, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
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was it derek woolgar, in 1997?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 12, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Eh sucks about the rib Luke..... I put my shoulder out halfway through the season two years ago and that ended the year for me..... not fun.
You didn't really miss anything though; the snow was nice and soft, but the weather left some to be desired. Snowing at the top of the run, raining halfway down, and clear at the bottom. Goggles couldn't be worn cause they were fogged to hell, but you got endless sh#t in the face riding without them.
When you climb next?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 12, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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Jim when you get further up the coast north of Powell River there's no real soil, just moss a couple of feet deep growing on the rock with trees growing out of it. When there's a landslide the whole thing rolls up like a magic carpet and exposes the bare granite. Talk about wax jobs, I've seen cleaned strips 100m wide and 800m high all starting from one little windthrown root wad. Scrubbing the f*ck out of Crap Crags had nothing on that.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:17am PT
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MH
Thanks for the name correction.
Nails
We weren't THAT cheap. We DID leave the hangers.
Tami
Good luck. Nervous?
Kid
I had to smile at the Mr. part of your Mr. Multch. It's usually hard to get any respect around here.....
That reminded me of a day at the Banff Film Fest, a while ago. During one intermission someone approached me and asked, "Do you have the time please, sir?" Sir????? That really hurt. Later the same day they showed a short film about something in the Valley. During that intermission I overheard several people discussing whether Yosemite was in California, or in Colorado. That hurt too, but in a different way.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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Nails
We weren't THAT cheap. We DID leave the hangers.
True, but we only used 9 of the things, mostly for belays, if I remember correctly.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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Having successfully slipped under the radar tonight, I can now report that Tami's audience is gathering supplies as we speak.
Tami's guess as to the origin of the quote is closest so far. You'd think documentary evidence as to the origins of climbing at Squamish would get a little more attention.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 13, 2012 - 03:16am PT
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After the Kruk / Kennedy show I'm organizing a beat down in the parking lot for the cry baby Italians, just me vs all of them, no problemo
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 13, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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I've never messed around with writing in but always enjoy reading all the squamish stuff. Just to set the story straight, I did solo U wall; pretty junior-aged, 14 or 15. I didn't take a hammer or pins; to make sure I'd climb it clean. Seemed like a big deal then; chocks and friends were all the rage. Not wailing ever-larger holes in the rock was pretty hip too. I wish I'd made it to dance platform in a day but not so much. I bivied on the ledge (and in a crummy hammock) at the base of the second to last pitch. Thanks to everyone that writes in friendly stories which I was a part of. That was, and still is, a great group of people; and all that granite made for some meaningful friendships all around.
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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O.k., had another beer so I'll fill in some of the blanks of that day on U-wall. Just a quick (funny) story regarding the approach. I was staying at Joe's house on no-name rd. so figured I'd better get up pretty early as I was walking to the chief. What with being completely broke and a year or two off a driver's license, walking was the mode. So I head out at around 3 a.m. to allow lots of time to walk to the chief. I'm out there, walking down the very quiet hwy., holding my thumb up to any car that happenned to pass. No one ever stopped. Finally a car pulled over but it was an rcmp. I had all my gear in a canvas mail bag, slung over my shoulder, so the cop figured I was running away from home. I had to open up my bag and show him the gear to get him to believe me. He did, and promptly drove me right to the base. I didn't own a headlight or anything remotely connected to dark trail-hiking, so I had to sit on the old road for a long time to wait for light to arrive. Never-a-dull-moment.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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Wow, I'm extremely honoured read your response Mr. Fraser! Your boldness and determination is certainly admirable, to this day and beyond. I got on the first pitch of Uwall the day after I got my first etrier and it took 4 hours to lead and clean the first pitch... 1 day or 2 you still must have been charging that shit!
Its pretty amazing how gnarly you guys(and gals) got back in the day, many climbers are still striving to ascend lines you pioneers were doing 30+ years ago.
Compared to say skateboarding where the average skateboarder today is significantly better than the average of 30-40 years ago.
Quite the high benchmark y'all have set.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Alright!
A good day for Supertopo!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 14, 2012 - 03:14am PT
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Hah Jim, good thing you didn't live at something like 123 No Name Road, that woulda got you cuffed for sure.
Classic story Hamish, hope to hear more.
Hey Tami, a Fungus Razor?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 14, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Welcome, Hamish! (How are we going to tell them apart?)
Maybe we should have a HH (Happy Hour) before, during or after Tami's performance on Thursday. The Eldo prancers will be very jealous.
The quote about 20 posts back is from Jim Baldwin's guide to the Chief and area, written IIRC in 1963. The first guide to the Chief.
- There are also many good problems to be found among the boulders at the base of the W wall of the Chief massif.
The start of bouldering at Squamish, in 1962 or so. Including what later got called the Black Dyke boulder.
- The cliffs on the E side of the town of Squamish also make excellent practise grounds.
Sounds an awful lot like the Little Smoke Bluffs, doesn't it? But climbing wasn't supposed to have started there until 1973, on Alexis. Mysteriouser and mysteriouser - perhaps hamie or tricouni could comment.
And then there's the mystery of when rock climbing as such, on the cliffs we now think of as Squamish, actually started. The official date of the first technical route was South Gully, in 1957. But there is more than a little circumstantial evidence suggesting an earlier date, even if it led to no conclusive result, and wasn't recorded or remembered.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 14, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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Noooooo I'm not a cow Tami. The kid blurted our my name a few posts back as a silly guess to Anders's riddle.
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