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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 03:05am PT
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I love the reactions I get to the funny grades I find in the books ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 04:57am PT
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Hey Mike, did I ever tell ya how much I enjoy yer pics. I also like your way with words.
Cheers again bro on a great thread.
I always come back and I am never disappointed.
Of course, all you other hosers make it real.
Most of you Frosties have already made the Shift.
Go ahead, roll yer eyes, I just been drinking.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 14, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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My first time for that climb was a few decades ago and it's still quite fresh in my grey matter. I ran into Perry one day in the bluffs as we were both soaking up as many routes as possible. He talks me into health hazard, assuring me it's not too bad. I'd looked at that pitch on and off for years but somehow always heard and thought it to be very reachy. Perry's arms could probably span a full size domestic pick-up but I'm more like an import. Anyway, up I go with lots of encouragement from the Chief at the base. I survived, but it was reachy. Good thing I had faith in him having faith.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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Wayno- Thanks man! Hoping you're gonna find some time to visit this winter!
Unless its cloudy then forget it, I'll move on to my other resolution to renew my relationship with taverns and beer, which I have neglected of late due to a woefully miss directed focus on health and fitness
LOL!! Good to see you have your proities straight Bruce! :)
Hamish- Thanks for the story! Would you be surprised to find out it sports a few shiny bolts these days? probably not.
I actually bothered editing some of my Iphone photos for a change..
Kyle on the way up from the loop trail
Sometimes things aren't as they appear....
It's actually pretty funny because Bearbreeder is very fond of good pro :)
These ones weren't going on the web without a watermark...
After a quick Kangaroo session we headed over to the Grand Wall Pebs to meet up with the gang.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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A few bolts? Oh geeze, I hope I'm remembering the right climb. I was talking about the climb up the arete, but it only had two bolts at the most. The funniest part is if one were to sift through the Chief's rack for work, you'd find many sandbags, as weights.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
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Yup you are. There are still only two. I wasn't sure if there were any back in the day.
Sandbags eh? Did you guys play practical jokes with them or what ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
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I wouldn't know - I put them all in my friend's packs for safekeeping, and have no idea what they did with them.
[Add: Harry, didn't you get some film of me in a climbing competition at Cliffhanger once?]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
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Sandbagging, literally.. ;)
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MH2
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Really liking your photo work, Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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Thanks Andy! I must say, I'm really impressed with this phone! It's too cold to fiddle around with a slr on a rope right now.
You must have a couple more shots I'd like to see, no? ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:11am PT
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Hey Big Mike, Kyle soloing with the chief and the weird clouds in the background is a keeper.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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Thanks Harry. I agree. I found the option in my HDR app to save both the images it takes, so I can do my manual edits. Sometimes I can get a much cleaner image stitching the two images and the colors are amazing because they are real and not computer generated approximations.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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Any one else taking advantage of the afl for some alpine climbing today?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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Bruce! We missed you, but we did have an amazing day climbing on the route that you & Brian put up. What an awesome vision you had for this feature!! One of the funnest multi clips I've ever done. My secret weapon rope gun was even nice enough to stop at the hanging rap station to set up a nice uncomfortable belay so I got to deal with the weirdness above which seemed like the crux. That first pitch done as a whole 35 m rig would be a doozy. As for the temps, you were right its a little thermal trap down there- T shirt weather and glorious sunshine. Much warmer than anything I've climbed in Squam since Nov.
I agree that a bolt at the bottom to protect the belay would fit well with the character of the route. Looks like I'll be heading back up there at some point so will happily drag the drill & fix er up. We didn't get bouted but def didn't send, some challenging sequences & hidden holds on the 5.11 bits.
Again great job Bruce, here's the fruits of your labor.
My only question is where were the dbl heel hooks?? I did a few kneebars on the opening layback but never found any heel hooks! Remember I'm a pad person I'm usually all over those things!
Rad day.
Big Mike thanks for coming up & hangin out, can't wait to see your pics unless they're already posted as I've been writing this post 6 words at a time since I started work 3 hrs ago.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 16, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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Had a fun time romping around the boulders on Sunday with Relic Brownie RyanD and Ais. A little less roped climbing than I was originally hoping for but it was good to be back.
We hit up Crackhead, which I decided was a great place to practise my offwidth roof skills. A minor epic followed when I used a hand-fist stack to shove my feet deep into the crack and promptly got stuck. Upside down, being held in only by heel-toe cams, I was trying to regain my initial type of jam, but tired out my core to the point where I had to call for a rescue.
Brownie may have pics to go with the story.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 04:21am PT
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Haha that was funny Nathan, we'll corrupt you in the boulders yet. You have to admit those easy highballs are fun.
Bruce, deadly is an understatement. That thing is mega, 5 stars! I agree with the 1 long pitch , the hanging belay sucked & I had to do the other 1/2 of the pitch & miss out on the summit pitch lead but it was still an awesome TR. what a position.
It was funny, Josh had done the route like 10 yrs ago when Bob Ali drug him up there as a pup. He thought he remembered everything but clearly he remembered nothin! Haha so he brings me to the crappy hanging stance & sez " it's easy 5th up to a 5.10 slab. So I pull off the belay thinking I'd just TRon'ed the crux & I'd probably just go all the way to the top. All of a sudden I'm in 5.11 land straight off the belay not wanting to fall on Josh, I reached in my chalk bag but found only sand, there's a bit of water but not too bad, I take a fall at some tricky traverse moves then get to a decent rest with a few hangs. I think for a second it's over after a few easier but thoughtful moves before I get to a no hands rest in an alcove. I look up and realize it ain't over & proceed up a wicked stem box, 3 sided, fully exposed, there's a final tricky move traversing out of the stem with some hidden holds before jugs & snow! A delicate mantel onto the snowy ledge & I'm toast! Haha can't wait to go back. I highly recommend this route. There's some hollow blocks but the rock is mostly great & the position is incredible! The final pitch is stellar, a bit reachy to clip the bolt off the ledge under the roof but the movement is awesome! Delicate & so exposed! Much gratitude Bruce, maybe its been the weather this fall but i can't remember the last time I had so much fun on a route!
Some possibly useful beta: Josh led the last pitch & lowered back to the ledge after summiting. I cleaned it on TR, threaded the rope & lowered back down. We pulled the rope & with a full 70 were able to rap to the luxurious platform to change back into our shred gear. On the long rap Josh swung over to the right below the midway station & clipped a bolt with a wire on it somewhere to the right of the initial overhanging section. He just made it & with my extra 20lbs he was able to pull me right back into the platform.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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Josh is funny. He's got the moves down pat but don't ask him how to get there!! My first time on Angel's crest was with him and we had the time honored experience of bushwhacking from the base of the north north aret to the base of angel's. "I think it's this way guys!"
I did some editing last night. Only got a few images done so far though.
Ryand leading the second half of p1 of Finestone Cowboy!
Ever wish you could zoom into one of my images?
Josh on the roof of the spire p2
I NEED a 75-200mm for this stuff!!! anyone know anyone getting rid of a cannon eos lens? hmm
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 16, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Sick shots Mike and Ryan!
While you guys were up in the alpine I snuck out of work and sniped an FA....
So as of right now it goes at 5.6 C1, I bet a free ascent would require a couple 5.11+ moves to get under the roof and a move or two of 12+ or even 13- to get through the roof.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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Nice Mike!! Such killer shots man, you definitely deserve a lens upgrade!
Sid Comer, is cariboo crack the leftmost line on respiration rock?? Nice one, I like the Yula pic.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 16, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
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It sure is Ryan. Go free it!
Per-spray alert'
Kieran and I are takin drus suggestiion and are currently racking to repeat a Beckey route ithis evening in honour of his 90th birthday... Any guess' as to what were gunna send? Donations are welcome and can be deposited directly in my Paypal account, pm me for details.
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