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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 11, 2011 - 03:01am PT
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Gym climbers.........(easy to identify...)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jun 11, 2011 - 04:31am PT
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Sick photos Ron. Look at Bachar's part in Moving Over Stone, if you have/(can find) a copy.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 11, 2011 - 10:12am PT
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Modern sport anchor...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 11, 2011 - 10:16am PT
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Truth be it....I can barely sport climb;.....I'm too afraid to climb up to the first bolt on most climbs.....
I can't trad climb either;...even on a top rope...
I just spray on the internet and do housework and watch small children;.....I'm a farce, a phantom, a fake, and a pretender.....
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 11, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Great thread.... I wonder why someone would spend the time to read and post that they are board as hell...?????? ....... just weird.... but I guess you just like to watch....
Sport Climbing is hard to define.... is it how the bolts got there? ....How many bolts per pitch?
I guess its like porn.... I know it when I see it.
This one aint no Sport climb
This is... I dont really care HOW Scottie got the bolt in , but I was sure glad to get to it.
This how we put in "Gold Standard" the top is about 400 feet above and all choss granite so we had to climb from the ground... well actually it starts from a ledge.
This one is hard to figure, no bolts next to the crack but a nice bolted anchor. The anchor was placed on tension from the adjacent climb! We then lowered and cleaned the brush out of the crack and then sent the "girl" to get it done. She got it done.
I love to do new climbs. The best ethic for me is to give the stone respect, dont alter it in anyway.
And remember this, what you do(your style) says a lot about who you are as a climber and a person.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 11, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
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LA SPORTIVE MEGAS,,,THE best shoe ever made...
I agree and with a little modification they became STELLER....
"The Turbo Treatment".... Take brand new Megas.... grind the sole down to about 40% of the original thickness on a flat grinder...careful not to get it hot and melt the original glue. Slap on some 5.10 slipper rubber and cut and grind it (the edge) to the proper shape......
Thats what we used, on most of that Courtright stuff, then the formula of Barge cement changed, the Toluene was replaced and the holding power of the glue went away. The Wed nite resoling partys got boring to....
So Ron this is a pretty good thread no? Many of the Tribe have spoken....
hope to see more pics later today.... after I get home from Stoney.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 12, 2011 - 05:12am PT
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What a week, just now able to get back here and go through Todd's photo album.
Hmmm, I guess in the end I blasphemously just don't buy the "we're all just climbers" feel-good mantra other than in the manner of "we all use ropes" with respect to caving. I consider what is happening in the moment in alpine, aid, sport, trad to be physically, mentally and emotionally so different from one another to the point I don't consider them remotely the same (sort of like the distinction between walking a cranked down and heavily guyed cable without a pole, a pulleyed-down 11mm static tightrope, and a webbing slackline - yeah, you're walking something in all three cases but they share precious little in common beyond that.)
Hell, from where I sit aiding and caving have more in common from a movement perspective than either does with free climbing. I see bouldering, DWS, and TRing overhanging lines sharing the inability to artificially rest on a climb. In free climbing though - sport or trad - I very much see it quickly being homogenized down to "rest, rest, send, next".
Cool, but from where I sit it pretty much makes the distinction between using bolts and gear pretty irrelevant - essentially mini-siege climbing on gear that all but renders the term 'trad climbing' meaningless. And again, I really don't care how or what people climb, but the co-opting of the term reducing it to just mean using gear grates a bit.
As far as the original "if it was bolted on lead" deal goes, it's pretty irrelevant to me how the bolts got in if I didn't put them there - the only thing that matters is the quality and character of the resulting climb. That it be 'safe' would seem a tertiary concern at best in that context to me, so it's probably a good thing I don't put up sport routes.
And gotta say Todd, the pictures are much so better when you are there in person to describe them - they lose a lot of 'animation' on the internet.
Out a here...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 13, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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sweeet thread!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 13, 2011 - 01:47am PT
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:24am PT
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I agree this thread started out totally lame, but its cool thread now, will try and contribute! Many thanks to Todd Gordon for all the RAD pics!!!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:28am PT
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GOOD stance = GOOD sport climb!!!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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HOOK stance = GOOD sport climb!!!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:32am PT
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WEIRD stance = GOOD sport climb!!!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:35am PT
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REACHY stance = GOOD sport climb!!!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:38am PT
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forgot the battery that day :(
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:38am PT
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Ol' Shakey, nice.
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:40am PT
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Whoops! Wrong way!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:45am PT
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me and my power gun lookin totally LAME!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:48am PT
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and... the original Oregon ground up sport climb bolter and author of Oregon sport climbing guide books... Jeff Thomas bolting on RAPPEL!!!!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Jun 13, 2011 - 03:09am PT
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The guy on the left put up a couple hundred ground up sport climbs in Oregon, oh and he did the first solo of the nose, the second solo of el cap. The guy in the middle is MORE than THREE times my age and started climbing before sport climbing during the 50's and put up one of the first sport climbs in Oregon. And the guy on the right is in the previous picture.
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