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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Just to be clear, it's wet 5.8 with 80 foot fall potential, a bit more unforgiving than puddle jumping.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Some puddles can be unforgivably deep.
I'm just trolling the poor bastard cuz he didn't come riding with us last wednesday.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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bk, I made the same recommend to Luke re U Wall.
A way better alternative any time of the year.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Well if the lower bolts got replaced in a fashion that facilitated a future free ascent and left us setup with a still viable recreational aid line to gain grand for the keeners on a rainy day, then that section of rock is put to good use.
Just used the Lieback as evidence that no statute sez the ancient bolts can't be touched. I am 100% in favour of what you have done Perry don't get me wrong.
Just my view from the bleachers ...
Rusty bolts are not meant to be preserved in active climbing areas.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
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^^^^^^^ +10000
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Replacing the original ladder would probably hinder a free ascent as the free line will take a more wandering line than the ladder.
Scrub the ladder and start from scratch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Scrub the ladder and start from scratch.
That gets my vote.
I don't see and validity to the comparison of the GW bolt ladders with Maestri's travesty on Cerro Torre, but at the same time, leaving it as it now is seems stupid. Pull the junk, and make room for someone's new adventure.
Removing the bolts does not in any way invalidate or disrespect the original climb. Those guys had an amazing adventure, and blazed a trail for a bunch of fantastic climbing. But fifty-plus years later, leaving the rusting stubs in place doesn't make any sense
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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All that time spent aid-soloing in the rain is a waste of TIME YOU COULD SPEND SKIING
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 10, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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Good point Chief, and above my pay grade ...
Over and Out !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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While I generally favour removing old/rusty/disused fixed equpment, my vote is for leaving the old bolts on the Grand Wall exactly as they are. They're not in anyone's way or a hazard to anyone. Neither are they an eyesore - for that, see some modern 'cleaning' efforts. Let's have a little respect for history and our forebears, eh?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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chez Nadine & Perry. Perhaps you and I and Jim can carpool?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 10, 2012 - 10:37am PT
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And Nathan! Hitching up after work would be hard.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 11:19am PT
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Nice to see my ICBC money going to something worthwhile.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 10, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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Tami,
It's an observation of the winter Solstice on Friday December 21 taking place on the shores of the Upper Blind Channel at the residence of an individual known to some as, Chief.
There will initially be a gathering of people of all ages around a large fire and adults will be generally well behaved in front of children.
Later, the children will be taken to the safety of their homes and the behaviour of the remaining adults will likely become quite childish and the event will take on the appearance of a party.
Freedom of speech is defended and informed and civil discourse encouraged.
Unlike ST, this is a real campfire and bad behaviour will have you escorted physically off the property or in extreme cases, thrown bodily into the Blind Channel.
Typically Ms. Chief brews a huge pot of soup and and although guests are plied with modest libations of both alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages, it's a BYOB event.
All warm bivi spaces including the cabin will be occupied by visiting family.
There's parking aplenty on the adjacent lot.
Driving away intoxicated will not be tolerated so make plans or bring a sleeping bag so you can pass out in your car.
Around midnight the world may or may not come to an end.
If it doesn't, it's officially winter and the days will start getting longer.
Planning a good time with family, friends and climbers.
Last years' fire.
Note red diesel jug common to native ritual in right frame.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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Yes, all those of us from Vancouver who are attending should carpool. We can rendezvous somewhere like St. David's (upper levels & Taylor Way) at 5:30, and proceed from there. Though if it's a sunny day, I reserve the right to leave early and go for a climb/hike.
As it will be the winter solstice, surely we can do some sort of wiccan stuff? Dancing rings around the fire or something?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Dec 10, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Technically the party will be a celebration of the world continuing to exist, as 0 Z will have already come and gone.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:16am PT
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I've got floor space to bivy on a short trek uphill from Chiefs residence, available to those who need somewhere to crash.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 11, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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Well at some point I'm going south this winter..... is that like coveting your neighbors wife?
Tough question, and I don't have enough information to answer it. I guess it depends on just what you're planning to do once you get south. Is that where your neighbor and his wife live? Or is she going south with you?
We need more information.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Bruce I m pretty sure that sort of thing is legal in Nevada.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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Hey Luke! Me and Sandra could use a floor to crash on if its still available
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