Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
|
This isn't like confusing "apples and oranges". It's more like confusing "apples and horseshit".
Another great line (I may have to steal it). And apropos here too.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
|
Basically, I'm trying to figure out how bad a person you really are. Why don't you go meet him in person, he is quite easy to find. Even better, you won't have to go far to climb a route he has replaced bolts on. Maybe try that. If you haven't, frankly, given the expanse of his work, I'm going to safely assume you haven't climbed sh!t in the Valley for well over 1-2 decades - you certainly post like it.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:13pm PT
|
Micronut, did you have to exert yourself and stretch to reach Layton Kor's bolts on the famous roof pitch on the Column?
When I lead that pitch, the only way I got through the roof was because somebody had left some tat on one of the bolts. I still have a hard time believing how Kor got the bolt spacing on that roof.
The tat allowed me to "cheat," otherwise I would have had to retreat (or let TD, who's taller than me, lead it). We didn't carry a stick clip, but short folks should consider such a tool if they know that the FA was taller, and stronger, than they. A retreat would not have been a big deal, in fact, in some cases it's kind of honorable.
@Erik, I certainly appreciate your psych. But focus bro. There's a lot of folks who think you're screwing up. Consider what's being said.
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
|
Why don't you go meet him in person, he is quite easy to find. Even better, you won't have to go far to climb a route he has replaced bolts on. Maybe try that. If you haven't, frankly, given the expanse of his work, I'm going to safely assume you haven't climbed sh!t in the Valley for well over 1-2 decades - you certainly post like it.
Why no, JLP, I couldn't do that! I might make a mistake and climb something - gasp - DANGEROUS.
I don't intend to meet Erik in person if I can avoid it.
And, honestly, I don't climb as much in The Valley as I used to. I've got almost unlimited rock near home here, I've done most of the routes there that I want to do (over 600 different Valley routes), and "the scene" (freaks included) has become a bit strong for me.
What's your name by the way "JLP," and where do you live?
|
|
madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
|
^^^ That appears to be first-hand knowledge that is pretty damning!
Edit: Dang... just missed it. That goes to Mike.'s post just above.
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
|
Erik Sloan wrote:
Hey Brad Young(Mtn Young) et all - I always try to remove the old bolts when I am replacing bolts.
Mike responded:
This is either an outright lie, or the product of a truly failing brain.
Actually Mike, it's probably an evasion. He didn't really provide much, other than a gross generality. His answer probably has a kernel of truth in it (but I sense that it's a small kernel, a low percentage of properly treated bolt holes).
This is why I asked my follow-up question; we'll see if he's got the guts to respond to that (and, as despicable as his conduct has been, I do have to hand it to him - he seems mostly honest).
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
|
I don't intend to meet Erik in person if I can avoid it. You and the other nutless slandering fuks here have certainly got that one figured out, haven't you - thank god for Supertopo!!!
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:56pm PT
|
OK "JLP," I'll grow some nuts. Here's the deal:
You meet me first. You come over here to climb on Sonora Pass. I'll keep an open mind and you do too. I can get along with almost anyone. I hope you can too.
Then I'll go over to The Valley and meet Erik. You can introduce us. I won't climb with him though. That's non-negotiable.
Oh, and what's your real name JLP and where do you live?
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
|
Oh, and JLP, it isn't "slander" if it's true. Please get a basic understanding of terms before you use them.
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
|
Hey Gang!
It seems to me, but correct me if I'm wrong, that old wall FAists were not thinking about creating something for the masses and generations to come, they were thinking about getting their asses up the cliff.
So they drilled minuscule holes and filled them with metal, not to create a scarefest for future parties, but because it was quick and they held.
That sh!t degrades and breaks and should be replaced, we all agree i think.
That 1/4 incher was bomber when it was placed originally. It only got hairy after many years and many ascents.
A brand new 3/8ths is as bomber(ok more) as the original 1/4" when it was placed, but will last way way longer. So why not replace that old mank with solid metal that will last?
Is it really stealing from the parties that want to be scared clipping sh!tty sh!t? (I GUESS AMMON ANSWERED SETTLED THAT UPTHREAD)
If we're seeking the thrill that the FAists had, on a route that's been around for decades, we'll never get it because we're not the ones drilling on new ground.
I guess this is my case for beefing up “on route” hardware but I'm not a Yosemite wallrat so whatevz. I’m just another dude on the internet wootwoot!
That's about where my agreeing with Woot Boy ends.
Dude, don't add bolts to pitches.
And for f*#ksake if you're gonna lop- be discreet about it. Leaving big cut branches at the scene of the crime is just stupid. That sh!t’s almost more offensive to me than the bolting…being a flatgrounder and all.
What are you guys going to do about this guy?
It's not like he's a f*#king zephyr.
If he really is stinking up the joint, make his (real)life miserable. Follow him around, video him, hassle him, wax his windshield every time you see his car. You guys live at the beach, they sell wax at 7/11. Pay a C4 rat to do it if you're shy or feel you have too much to lose.
The internet exposé and diplomatic route def ain't working.
“Eric Sloan, please answer my question…”
“Eric Sloan, you did not answer my question”
Woot boy’s just all neener neener! on your asses.
Plan B- frontier (or surfer) justice.
No need for violence.
Run the guy out, voting him off the island isn’t working.
Watching Tom bust a gasket crying “ISIS!” and sh!t while Woot Boy keeps barfing rainbows is just too much!!!
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
|
Watching Tom bust a gasket crying “ISIS!” and sh!t while Woot Boy keeps barfing rainbows is just too much!!!
Another memorable quote.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
|
Jefe is all right by me.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
"woot boy" keeps barfing rainbows .... yea...my gut is telling me the truth has GOT to be somewhere in the middle.
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
|
^^^
Del Cross: I think the quote you posted is very important.
I think it is also important to point out that Greg posted it over ten years ago. Yes, it's in this thread, but this is an old thread resurrected "Ten Years After."
Just in case anyone coming to the discussion late didn't know the chronology.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
|
while Woot Boy keeps barfing rainbows is just too much!!!
That is hilarious.
|
|
Lurkingtard
climber
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 10:49pm PT
|
Oct 20, 2015 - 07:34pm PT
Why was I ever rude to you, Jefe?
You're SOLID
Because you're an as#@&%e?
...
;-)
|
|
madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2015 - 12:10am PT
|
I'm Krinkled for life, thanks to that sick commercial. What has been seen cannot be unseen.
|
|
overwatch
climber
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2015 - 06:58am PT
|
Nutless slandering f*#ks isn't funny just ironic.
|
|
FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2015 - 07:27am PT
|
http://www.dailycamera.com/get-out/ci_28998241/chris-weidner-aging-anchors-ticking-time-bombs-eldorado-canyon
This is interesting. Local climbing organizations get people to work together to replace existing fixed hardware... It's also interesting to note some of the reasons these local climbing organizations came to be.
Any guesses why....?
Nanook, a-no-no
Nanook, a-no-no
Don't be a naughty Eskimo
I don't intend to meet Erik in person if I can avoid it.
Awww, he's a really nice guy. None of us (besides Vitality and JLP) like to see him retro-bolting routes, but he's very approachable and you'll have more of impact face to face vs spraying him down on the Internet. Next time I see him I'll give him some feedback.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2015 - 07:49am PT
|
Hitler was very engaging in person, too, plus he loved dogs.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!