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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 10, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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Too run out;...I got scared..........(And I did got to practice my spray can artwork too.......).....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 10, 2011 - 11:18am PT
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There are no sport climbs at Joshua Tree;....only run out face climbs...
Locker;...I'm at 986......but who's counting.......(Then I can retire.....and set up my kids college fund instead of buying hangers and pins.....).......
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 10, 2011 - 11:20am PT
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Locker knows the classics well....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 10, 2011 - 11:23am PT
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A sport climber on Piasano Jam crack (5.9).....He leads 5.12 sport climbs, but this was out of his reach.........(I've never understood this .......................................)...stick you damn hands in the crack, laddy.........
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jun 10, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
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Todd I for one have loved your comments and your photos. It's Rock Climbing and it has my full love and commitment. Climbing is not about being a hardman for me and I'm grateful for this because I don't have to insult gym/sport climbers and those fools who think that bouldering is climbing. I am a rap bolting, ground up, sport climbing, trad climbing, sprad climbing, boulderer. I put my whole heart into climbing and feel at home when on the rock. This is something we all can agree on, we love to climb.
Great thread everyone, we will always have this issue and it is a good one that will hopefully bring light to new climbers the traditional ways. My mentor the Kenny Rose has a great saying that is definitely from gu point of view, "You're only cheating yourself "
Have fun and climb on.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jun 10, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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Ron I agree that the runouts are the best and I don't believe in adding bolts to climbs such as these. It's close to soloing when you are in that no fall attitude. For the record I've placed three bolts on rap, some say three too many.
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Jun 10, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
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zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.......
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 10, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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this is still going?
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Jun 10, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
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This horse died in 1992. RIP.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 10, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
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Here's a bolted climb where the FA party WAS out to get ya.......(Manly Dike.....5.12a PG/R or 5.11 A0)........those ground up lazy pot-smokers......ruining a great opportunity to make a safe classic climb that everyone could enjoy;......it's supposed to be one of the best dike traverses anyways.....only had a handful of ascents in 25 years........what up.....
The awesome Manly Dike......(bring an extra pair of shorts for the lead....)....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 10, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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Here is my take on run-out bolted climbs;........
1) Done on the lead by talented and brave climbers who know what they are doing, and this is just the way they climb.......Cool;...but probably not for me....I'll follow or top rope...(In my youth...a different story...)...
2) People who top rope the crap out of their climb FIRST...then bolt run-out climbs on the lead;....shame on you;.....those of us who like to on-site routes without poopin our pants or getting killed;....you did a dis-service to us......thanks for nothing....cheaters.....
3) People who top rope the crap out of climbs then rap-bolt a dangerous run-out climb;...even worse......shame on you even more......mega-cheaters......
4) People who do run out climbs for the wrong reasons;....ego, show-off, glory, names in the guidebook, etc........shame on you...
5) People who run out of bolts (don't bring enough bolts with them on the FA) and do run-outs because of this;....shame on you, you knuckleheads.....I've done this before;...but gone back and finished the job.......if you don't get it right the first time......go back and fix your "mistake."..
6). People who can't seem to get the bolts in safe or correct places because of some mental or other default.........you crazy doofs are trying to kills me and my friends;...find a new sport....if you can't to it right.......top rope, do others routes, or take up surfing or skiing...
7)Then there are all of MY FAs........all of them are awesome.....every last one.......
In conclusion;...only #1 and #7 work.....the rest;.....go have a beer and some TV.........and put down the drill please........walk away from the drill.......
Udi (5.10+)...Ground up, of course....
I guess run-outs on very easy ground are OK if need be....and run-outs on super steep rock above water......yeah......
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jun 10, 2011 - 07:27pm PT
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Todd- last post was well said, Same to you Ron. Keep it real..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 11, 2011 - 01:22am PT
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You can bolt up the cracks, or you can send twitter pics of your weiner to complete strangers.........pick one or the other, but not both, please.....
Here's a bolted crack in Italy........(I clipped the bolts....)...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 11, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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Todd, i luv u man, but please . . . . .
Bolt some cracks!
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Jun 11, 2011 - 01:59am PT
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................and further more..................blah, blah blah.................back in the day when I used to be hard,.......................................blather blather blather............thought i was going to die!.
.........god damn rap bolting wankers............................... gone dun gots me again...................................and then those bastards came along and....................................... spew spew spew................................... used to wake up half an hour before I went to bed............................
................and that ain't sh#t.............the mother f..... is rated 3 grades harder now.................... rattle rattle, drone drone.....
No lie, I used to eat nails and sh*t railroad ties.................gasp gurgle choke...............up hill both ways .....................3 and 1/2 hours with a broken bit and no hammer....................drink my own urine...............................cat food for a week............................i'm telling ya...........whine whine complain ...........................it's the death of climbing and ...........groan groan...........blither blather...............I'll chop ever son of a bitch I find and............piss, moan moan moan ......................Buster Gonad woooda turned in his grave...................zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz wankerbollockstosserpillockspunkbubblearseholebuggerf*#kinhellburpfart.............chortle chortle.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 11, 2011 - 02:07am PT
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Please accomply your spew with a picture;...I do..........(cheater...)....
Rap bolter;...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 11, 2011 - 02:36am PT
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This may give you a semi with a wet tip.............
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apogee
climber
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Jun 11, 2011 - 02:47am PT
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Todd:
1) Done on the lead by talented and brave climbers who know what they are doing, and this is just the way they climb.......Cool;...but probably not for me....I'll follow or top rope...(In my youth...a different story...)...
2) People who top rope the crap out of their climb FIRST...then bolt run-out climbs on the lead;....shame on you;.....those of us who like to on-site routes without poopin our pants or getting killed;....you did a dis-service to us......thanks for nothing....cheaters.....
3) People who top rope the crap out of climbs then rap-bolt a dangerous run-out climb;...even worse......shame on you even more......mega-cheaters......
4) People who do run out climbs for the wrong reasons;....ego, show-off, glory, names in the guidebook, etc........shame on you...
5) People who run out of bolts (don't bring enough bolts with them on the FA) and do run-outs because of this;....shame on you, you knuckleheads.....I've done this before;...but gone back and finished the job.......if you don't get it right the first time......go back and fix your "mistake."..
6). People who can't seem to get the bolts in safe or correct places because of some mental or other default.........you crazy doofs are trying to kills me and my friends;...find a new sport....if you can't to it right.......top rope, do others routes, or take up surfing or skiing...
7)Then there are all of MY FAs........all of them are awesome.....every last one.......
In conclusion;...only #1 and #7 work.....the rest;.....go have a beer and some TV.........and put down the drill please........walk away from the drill.......
This thread is done- no further discussion needed.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 11, 2011 - 02:58am PT
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Bolt clipping sport climber....
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