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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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The biggest Mike
Before it started snowing
Somewhere around the 6th pitch?
Looking up at the Acrophobes
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 12, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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Damn! Looks like you guys wound up on a real climb.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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That's awesome! I'm just fartin around Bruce, gettin ready to grab the goon spoon & go dig a few post holes in the rain:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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Thanks gf, yeah I brought some liner gloves but really should have brought a decent winter pair. I was taking them off to climb so they wouldn't get wet, and would keep me warm at belays..
That pic kinda makes it look like I led the Acrophobes pitch which is not true...
I dunno about harder or smarter, but definitely we share the same stoke!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 12, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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Good grief, Charlie Brown! An ascent of the Angel's Crest in full conditions. What's next?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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I had full winter gloves plus soft shell ones and it worked well. Chalk! Ha, non of that.
My toes were so cold though....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
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hmmm... sounds like fun.. yesterday definitely could have been more fun if i was better prepared. i had thick socks on under my rock shoes which worked quite well as my feet weren't really cold until the second to last pitch standing on the damn whale's back!!
GF- fish yanked on a couple pieces at least each of the upper pitches but I managed to free everything until that damn slot on the 10a and all the face nubbins were snow covered. I still almost did it, but whipped and yanked fish out of his comfy belay spot behind the wall. next time i grabbed the gear and got the F off that thing. otherwise it was free with a couple takes on the last two pitches.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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This shite needs to be on the front page bump.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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...and all this time I thought Bigmike and Fishboy were softcock welterweight wankers too light for a solid adventure..
Bump for a badass ascent!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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Thank Luke!
gf
climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 05:07am PT
hey mike -yeah i didn't want to ask about those moves on the last pitch -kind of figured it would come out in the tale....
nice one though!
No worries gf. I considered that before I posted it, but for me it's such a small part of this story. The most important thing for me was that we faced adversity and conquered it. I can't remember the last time I wasn't sure we would be able to send one way or another.... Tr coming very soon. I'm hoping tonight!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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Per ardua ad astra!
(Referring either to the climb, or the report - maybe both.)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Thanks Anders! That's gold!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Tell us the frikken story already!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 13, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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I can't remember the last time I wasn't sure we would be able to send one way or another....
Not being sure you'll send is one thing...
Not being sure you'll live is another thing entirely.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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How about Mikes new avatar.. Frosty, whats the deal with that!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 13, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Ask Farouk
Edit-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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MH2
climber
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Nov 13, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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Frosty? I thought it was a teddy bear in formal wear.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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HaHaHa.... ya... check out my Farouk??????? thread. :)
I saw that at a gig and had to have it as my new avatar.. you like it Ryan?? :)
Not being sure you'll send is one thing...
Not being sure you'll live is another thing entirely.
Exactly and at that point going up seemed the fastest way off. It worked out. Luckily. We knew we were pushing it. It seems pretty silly in retrospect. Skill, Luck and Determination came through for us.
I posted the tale in a TR so it doesn't get lost in the matrix that is squamish photos and stories. Sorry it is so late but i hope you will find that the extra time I spent on it is worth it.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Great-White-North-Angels-Crest-full-conditions-ascent/t11759n.html
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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So back in June of this year I climbed my first multi pitch after 15 years on the couch, up this world class 13,000 ft. alpine peak the Yanks call a "crag" for some strange reason ....
Things went well in spite of my rusty route finding skilz and my "fresh out of the box" TC Pros from Wilsons Eastside Sports that felt like a pair of alpine roller skates and only a single skinny 7.5 mm 60 meter cord. We established a classic new 2,000' line we called "Erotic Venusian Blind Nubian Princess Dancer" 5.14d R **
I even managed to have Bruce Kay safely back to our bivy site at Second Lake by 2:30 pm, just in time for his afternoon nap.
He didn't like getting his picture taken very much
My first Sierras route and I am hooked now. Many thanks to BK for the adventure !
The next Day BK soloed Cathedral and Matthes Crest. The day following that we climbed the reg route on Fairview Dome in 2.5 hours, after hiking halfway into Mt Conness and then bailing to Tenaya lake for a couple six packs on the beach pre-Fairview.
Over 3,000 feet of rock & nearly 30 miles of hiking in three excellent days for two guys both over 50 years old.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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If Bruce had a better pillow he wouldn't be so grumpy.
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