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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 17, 2012 - 04:09am PT
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Fishboy, thanks for posting that movie. I've never seen it but always wanted to, the Squamish footage is awesome & the Croft footage is wild, they pretty much get him in real time climbing the entire Cardinal pinnacle he is moving so fast. Horne lake footage was cool too.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Oct 17, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Bruce- no, no not yet... Hopefully me and Derek will get it done. Check out the Cali thread for updates.
Thanks for the pics nic!!! Sweet!
Wish ya'll were here!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
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Wow!! Dead around here... ;) thanks to Chris Mac for the shout out in the most recent supertopo newsletter!!!! We finally made the big time!!
This has been posted on the Cali thread but it's super topical so why not here too??
Me and Ed Cooper!
Also our own Paul Brennan after his ascent of Mescalito!!! Congrats Paul!!!
Paul has big things planned for after the storm! Too bad Tom is done for the season!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 24, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Mike is bigger than he thinks he is. Now that is funny.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Oct 24, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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Maybe Tami was standing in a hole?
Tee hee hee. ;-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 02:22am PT
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They don't call me big mike for nothing!!! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2012 - 12:34am PT
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Holy is it raining around here or what ??? I think I hear crickets.... ;)
Me and Relic are back in Canuck land!! Now if only we could do something about this weather!!!!
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MH2
climber
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Oct 25, 2012 - 08:53am PT
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You'll think of something sooner or later.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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hmmm.. peak bagging? Ice Climbing?? not yet.... temporarily defecting to the states?? naw love pow too much....
Silver watch out I might show up on your doorstep and kidnap you to belay me with weather reports like that!!!
Cross posted from my Cali thread!
So on Thursday I had a couple of things to do in the morning but my afternoon was clear and I still really wanted to go climbing. I felt like my roadtrip just wasn't ready to end...
The boys finished up our latest gig and when we moved the stuff one of them had some personal business to go take care of so Kieran and I siezed the opportunity to get some pitches in!!
We ditched this view....
For this one... (The Chief)
The Squaw
On the way in from the parking lot we ran into "Micro Mark". I asked him WTF are you doing here dude???? I said you should be in the valley!!!!! He laughed and smiled and says I love this sh!t man!!! He asks us where we are going and I said penny lane! He says cool i'm going there too! He split off at one point to go set up a top rope from above.
Up Up and Away 5.9 was free and I love this rig so I racked up quickly.. (member this one Tami?)
Just as I was about to set off, who should toss a rope over but Mark.. he was working the 13a prow “To Be Exposed” next to up up and away.. This Sonnie Trotter FA looked desperately thin on gear but mark had one decent piece in and a couple average ones… I chit chatted with Mark a bit and ate the crack for breakfast. I instantly appreciated Squamish granite that much more. Every lock was solid and every foot was bomber and grainy and felt like it would never slip out… The temperatures were amazing! 6 to 7 degrees (celcius) max and the friction was all-time…
I LOVE SQUAMISH GRANITE!!!!!!!
I flowed through the crux without a single hesitation and placed less gear than I ever have on that upper section. Kieran seconded it with ease and while he was taking it down I got to watch Mark try the crux on TBE. He flowed through the moves and seemingly was pasting his feet on nothing with no hands until he slowly barn doored off.
We left Mark to his project and headed over to Partners in Crime 11a
Kieran tried it a couple times but the opening moves were wet so he didn’t want to commit. We decided to try Climb and Punishment 10d instead.
He loved this one but got shut down at the crux, and whipped on the pin.
While he was hanging I had time for a few photos..
The trees were sporting their fall colours
It took Kieran quite a while to get it done and it was pretty much dark by the time I took it down. I pretty much got it clean besides having to fight a couple cams that Kieran shoved in there….
We packed up and headed back to the car so we could go pick Mark up. We went over to his place and ran into him as he was headed towards the Cliffside. I suggested that we go to the brew pub because the food was at least passable there vs Cliffside…
Mark must know a few people at the pub because we got the hugest plate of nachos I have ever personally witnessed at the brew pub…. It is amazing to converse with someone who has just as much stoke as you do. I felt as if we had a lot in common even if he is playing at an infinitely higher level…
He told us about his ascent of Genus Loci and how it was probably one of the coolest things he had done all summer.. I asked him if he liked it so much that he would go lead it again, but he said he would rather second it for a friend if they were trying to get the redpoint… ;)
I took this cheesy photo…
Kieran and I both had fun hanging out with Mark. Next morning it was back to work... ;)
What was your first time back on squamish granite after valley experience like????
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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Shameless bump.. See question above!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nice work capturing the fall colors!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Thanks Perry. It was awesome to have you join us for dinner the other night... Thanks for that!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The Cliffside was always a bit rougher, though not quite up to the 'standards' of the downtown bars in Squamish. Still, the sign on the door saying "no knives", and the list of banned people, were somewhat reassuring. Plus you could also threaten your life with your basic triple-bypass meal.
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MH2
climber
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I've always felt I climbed better after a road trip, no matter where. Maybe it relaxes you? Gets you out of some mental ruts?
Thinking about sun, now. Those who do not learn from history...
an early PNW TR
The Journals of Lewis and Clark, Bernard DeVoto, 1953
(all entries and some inventive spelling by Lewis)
November 5th Tuesday 1805
"Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning"
November 6th Wednesday 1805
"A cool wet raney morning"
November 7th Thursday 1805
"A cloudy foggey morning Some rain"
November 8th Friday 1805
A cloudy morning Some rain"
November 9th Saturday 1805
"rained hard all the fore part of the day"
"The Water of the river being too salt to use we are obliged to make use of rain water. Some of the party not accustomed to Salt water has made too free a use of it on them it acts as a pergitive"
November 10th Sunday 1805
"rained verry hard the greater part of the night & continues this morning"
November 11th Monday 1805
"A hard rain all the last night"
"rained all day"
November 12th Tuesday 1805
"rained with great violence"
November 13th Wednesday 1805
"The rain continue all day. nothing to eate but pounded fish which we keep as a reserve and use in Situations of this kind."
November 14th Thursday 1805
"rained all the last night without intermition, and this morning"
"The rain &c. which has continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a time for ten days past has distroyed the robes and rotted nearly one half of the few clothes the party has"
November 15th Friday 1805
"Rained all the last night"
"The rainey weather continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a time, from the 5th in the morng. untill the sixteenth is 11 days rain, and the most disagreeable time I have experenced confined on a tempiest coast wet"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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What was your first time back on squamish granite after valley experience like????
It was... Interesting.
Valley in October, back to Van, kinda rainy, but caught a good day in early November and headed up to Squamish. Gearing up in the Apron parking lot, we hear "Hi. What are you up to?" Turn around and see Jim Sinclair.
"Something on the Apron. Maybe Sparrow."
"Mind if I join you?"
Well, no, we didn't mind. And soon we were climbing. We offered Jim the lead of the first real pitch, the rising rightward traverse, but he said he was happy just to tie in in the middle and enjoy the ride. I wondered to myself if he was no longer climbing well, but watching him on that pitch was an eye-opener. He just walked. Standing upright, not reaching out sideways to touch the rock, not apparently even in climbing mode. Sure, it's only 5.8, but he made it look like it was the flat part of the approach trail.
So, obviously, we offered him the next lead, but he said he was still happy in the middle, so I set off. I was fairly comfortable on the Apron at that point, and after the bulge, continued straight up on the old Slim Pickins line rather than moving left, then up, then back right on Sparrow.
So from the horizontal crack at the bulge it's what... about 25 feet or so of 10b slab with no pro to where the climbing eases? However far, I'd done it often enough not to be worried and sailed onward, cruising up on increasingly damp rock until I stepped in a slime patch just before the last real move.
Outta there! One second, and 40 or 50 feet later I said "Hi Jim. You sure you don't want a go?"
No, he was still happy in the middle. So I re-did it, but took the easy way.
Not sure that having been in Yosemite until a few days before made any difference, but you did ask.
Edit (having seen Tami's note above): Yes, the pub in Valleycliff (the Cliffside) was totally suburban. The Chieftan and the Squamish Hotel were total slum taverns, which is why we probably hung out in them. Well, that and because the Cliffside didn't exist back then.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Hahaha... MH2... Times haven't changed much eh?
Tami was that your fa? Km lists you first....
Ghost thanks for that excellent tale!! Slim pickins has been over bolted by over the rainbow correct??? Didn't KM out OTR up? Hmmm not such a purist after all it seems...
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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The Cliffside was always a bit rougher, though not quite up to the 'standards' of the downtown bars in Squamish. Still, the sign on the door saying "no knives", and the list of banned people, were somewhat reassuring. Plus you could also threaten your life with your basic triple-bypass meal.
Mighty appears to be suffering from some form of recall dyslexia.
The Chieftain was the loggers bar (some loggers were Indians too) and mainly a George Jones, Conway Twitty outfit.
The Squamish (later to became the Ocean Port) was the bikers bar, (which meant a bunch of loggers and Indians drank there too), was much more a Bob Seeger joint and one of the last bastions of "Folk Dancing".
You could end up in a physical altercation at either bar depending on what you were or weren't wearing, who you did or didn't drink with, who you logged for, poor etiquette at the pool table or arguing with an Indian.
The Cliffside on the other hand was Squamish's first neighborhood pub and a much more genteel establishment catering to the appetites of Valleycliffe locals, loggers, bikers and climbers. You could end up in a fight there too but it would be over loud lycra, hangdogging, rap bolting, excessive posing, hitting on someone's girlfriend or wife or arguing with a logger (who could be an Indian).
Leastways, that's my recollection.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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In the early 1960s we tended to frequent the Chieftan. The regulars weren't used to climbers back then: didn't know what to make of them, so pretty much left us alone.
The Chieftan was nowhere near as rough as some of the pubs in Prince Rupert or even Terrace in those days. Even the cops were reluctant to go into some of them.
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