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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Oct 13, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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I climbed the obvious right facing corner at Cheekeye in 87 ish.
The Big Easy, 12 b-c stemmer, gear and two bolts.
Not technically the Canyon but same rock not far from the Cheakamus.
I wouldn't climb there unless you've got permission or bow and arrow in the woodpile.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 13, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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Boot to the Head is at the south end of Shoot to Kill. It's in Kevin McLane's Whistler Rockclimbs.
Keith Reid did Gom Jabbar in '93 and Jola Sandford completed the route as Freewill two years later. It was soon after The Edge opened in North Vancouver that I first heard about Chek when someone asked, "Have you seen that overhanging crack Keith Reid is working on?"
I've had lots of fun with many climbs and people along that corridor and had the real sport-climbing experience of being on climbs way too hard for me. Also got a couple of routes that I had to work on; not my usual M.O.
When I say that the comparison of TM and Guy has to do with clowning, I do it with great respect. The clown holds your interest because you are never sure what they are going to do next. And they can scare you.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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Wow cool stuff! Thanks for that! Great in-flight reading...
Hey Bruce, tell em about the frenchies you ran into yesterday.... Too funny !
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 13, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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Thanks for the history lesson boys! We have talked about a lot on this thread but not too much about the 1000+ routes that are north of town 30min-1hr so it's cool to learn a bit about them. As prominent as RB has been north of Squam it seems he never did much at chek or rogues?? I also have wondered why Shoot to kill doesn't have many more lines on it??
Chief- Is the corner you speak of "the line" on the cliffs above the Squam/Paradise valley fork?? Those cliffs look awesome, was there any other routes there before it was closed, or was it always closed?
ahhhhh the rain again.........
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Oct 13, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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The Big Easy and Gator Wrestling are amazing climbs on the Cheekye Reserve.
As mentioned earlier, you need band permission or bow and arrow in the woodpile. I claimed the latter.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 13, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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I don't remember the date, but I went up with Jim Sanford a couple of times to work Division Bell. That is, he would work it, and I would watch and maybe climb some of the easier stuff nearby. Somebody with a guidebook could check the date, but it was fairly early. I'm sitting in Abbotsford International Airport, on my way to the flatlands, and don't have my Chekamus guide with me.
Actually I don't own a Chekamaus guide.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 13, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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So ghost, or anyone else who recalls. Did Sandford have to work division bell & a lot of his other harder routes (presto, permanent waves, technical ecstasy, carress of steel, etc.) for long periods of time?? Or did he just bolt & send pretty quickly then on to the next?? He seemed to get a lot done for a few years there.
Still looking for my first Sandford tick. Same goes for Hamish' routes.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 13, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Still looking for my first Sandford tick.
There's a Sandford et al. route on Golden Hinde that might, I say might, be within your aptitude range (it's a 5.4) :p
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 13, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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For bonus points, where did many of the early route names at "Chek" come from? And why was the heifer fleeing?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 13, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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Was the heifer fleeing because it's easy to leave the barn door open on that one? At least that's usually what I do before ending up in the air.
Gf when u say salt sheds u mean rogues right??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 13, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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I pity the kids these days who have grown up with internet weather forecasts and never had to call the Environment Canada toll-free number and listen to the The Original Fish Hotline ad before they told you if it was gonna rain or not
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 14, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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Thanks for the Samaritan work Bruce, that is awesome! I cannot believe there was a teepee there still, I wonder if it's been there since I was last down there 2 summers ago or if it gets erected every year?? Regardless, good riddance.
For a minute I thought you were gonna go to Cali with the frenchies. For a minute I also thought you were talking about the bongs u guys used for rope climbing protection BITD. Not the ones us boulderers use for climbing protection nowadays.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 14, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Jim, it's possible I stole your route Gator wresting as I went there with Dick Parker and looked up to see this amazing line with some bolts. I headed on up and at about half height I realized that the bolts were not all in yet and scared myself ####less running it out to the top with no pro and some hard climbing.I'm guessing that was late '89 or early 1990.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 14, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Good work! A Squamish FaceLift, of sorts.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 14, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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The owner of the Teepee had a bear visit him 4 nights ago.
I have some very clean friends just upstream from him, and they had a bear visit them last night while watching a movie. They never saw you guys, but did have a visit from some guy from a department of something the day before.
Good work anyway Bruce et al.....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 14, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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I've retired from organizing such things, or at least I thought I had, after many years of working on climbing conservation and access matters. Others took over responsibility for the Access Society a few years ago, and after nearly 20 years of volunteering, it was time for a change, for it and me. I hoped to stay out of the way (unless asked), quietly work on a Squamish climbing history, put more time into family things and actually climbing, and at most occasionally show my mug at volunteer events and festivals, and moonlight harmlessly at the Yosemite FaceLift. At least, I thought that was the plan - were it not for a certain wretched gondola proposal. (Still undecided.)
It sounds like the Access Society provided the needed leadership to address the current situation, and that things are in hand. No need for my involvement, although maybe they'd let me hold a garbage bag or something. Perhaps a larger event, a Squamish FaceLift, would make sense - focusing on all the parks and natural lands at Squamish, including the Chief. That'd take some organizing, but might have considerable benefits for both the town and climbers. Hopefully the powers that be will consider the idea.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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Ahhh.... Reading my favourite thread, while eating Pizza deck pizza in sunny California..... How can I complain?? Nice write up Bruce! Even better than it was in person!!
The valley is everything I ever expected and more!!! See the going to Cali thread for the play by play...
Squamish Facelift sounds like an awesome idea! I'm sure it would be fun!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 14, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Rad 11a at Fern Hill
Burp the Worm 11c, Fern Hill
Wishing I had a big cam on Skullduggary 10a
Getting confused about the rope on an 11b in the Bluffs
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 14, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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Uh oh. Now fish boy is posting sport climbing photos. Whats next?! Awesome photos btw! Those 2 climbs at fern are great! That 11b- too pink to think? I think. Is weird the way the rope runs. Skullduggery is good too & not as bad as it looks, unlike the beaver just above. Nice ones.
Edit- the 11a is called good times, which it is
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 14, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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You'll notice I was sport climbing in TC Pros, does that make me trad still?
Yeah, that's the 11b....
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