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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 19, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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Wow thanks for the pics. Always wondered what this climb looked like. The 11+ pitch looks amazing.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 19, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
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Yup that 11+ pitch was solid, you just got to crank! Not many good jams...
That 3rd pitch was loads of fun, solid 10 for sure...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 19, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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1st route I ever did at Squamish, some 11a behind the campground
Looks like A Pitch In Time - which Eric graded 5.9. OK, maybe 5.9+.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 19, 2011 - 09:05pm PT
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Bruce if you are talking about the 3rd pitch roof crack, then yes it has been climbed, that's where the pitch goes. The crack is close to the wall and used for the first part...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 04:12am PT
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Happy Winter Solstice!
-FB thanks for the pics! Nice work. You rope soloed Angel's Crest? How long did that take you? What did you have for pro on that offwidth? We usually skip the big stuff for weight so we go the traditional way, but it would be fun to hit that.
La Coalition looks sick! thekidcormier wanted to get on it one day last year but we decided to go do Milk Road instead.
I met up with Kyle and Nina this afternoon in the Smoke Bluff parking lot to take advantage of some positive temps and excellent friction. We headed up to Penny Lane where we met up with thekidcormier.
Kyle wanted to lead Clandestine Affair so I suggested that Nina put up Quarryman so I could take pictures of someone different for a change. She politely declined, and thekidcormier wanted to lead it, but none of us really wanted to see him whip on his rope and draw harness setup :)
Not that he would have...
After a pretty smooth transfer from the Quarryman anchor to the Yorkshire Gripper, I had a bitch of a time figuring out my setup with my brand new jugs and trying to get over the roof.
After a little help for a passerby climber I hooked the Safety about neck height to my upper jug and sat on it while jugging my lower one with both ladders attached.
It was 340 by the time I started taking pics and the sun was setting fast. The lighting was amazing.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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Killer Pics Fish Boy, La coalition looks sick!
Big mike I tryin to get you hit La gota Fria (5.10+ A0), No la coalition(5.11+)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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You are right. There is only one 11+ pitch tho and it takes good gear so we could probably aid it.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 23, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Here's Big Mike at the butt end of the climbing season in Squamish for 2011.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 24, 2011 - 01:11am PT
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Hey mike...Angels took about 2 and a half hours climbing time, but 4 hours sitting around. I started around 2 and did the last pitch in the dark...free soloed a lot of the easier terrain. My biggest cam was a blue C4 and I broke the trigger wires after the first pitch so didn't use anything on the offwidth, just started up it for a look and came down and roped up.
My buddy and I had planned to do La Coalition into La Gota Fria, but spent a few hours trying to find it, wandering around on a cool ledge which had bear on it! Gave up eventually, tried again later and ended up doing upper echelon ...now I've worked out where it is from the road and it looks AMAZING! You'll want to be upper end .11 climber with strong forearms to get that 11+ pitch clean, but it isn't brainy, just run!
It's good seeing all of these pics...
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 24, 2011 - 01:27am PT
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Went to go do St Vitus but got side tracked on to this? No idea what it is 3 or so pitches and just to the right of st vitus?
Finishes up here
Crappy over bolted route in a nice position...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 24, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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The climb to the right of St. Vitus is Vector. The corner in your second photo is an upper pitch of Evergreen State.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 24, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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Vector Kicks Ass... Christmas bump...
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MH2
climber
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Dec 24, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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And the next climb to the right is Whirling Dervish.
Although Evergreen State traverses in to get to the corner shown by Fish Boy.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 24, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
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I agree, Vector is awesome. Super easy off width on a slab. A good mild intro to that size although I don't think it's burly enough to be real OW.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2011 - 11:04am PT
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I have yet to climb Vector. That 10d final corner looks awesome! Most times when I see people on Vector they finish that way.
We got out on Thursday and managed to get a few pitches in. Everything in the shade was covered in frost but the sun provided a little warmth.
Luke wanted to lead Jangling Ball Wall so he put up a fixed line for me to take pics.
When we were setting up, another gentleman at the crag walks over to me and says "Mike? is that you?" to which i replied of course "Yes". He says "It's Relic!".
Relic on Jangling Ball Wall
After Relic styled it, I gave it a shot and got stuck at the crux for a bit, after more than a few ushba falls I managed to figure it out.
Mike
Photo Kieran Brownie
^^^^ el famoso snowboard photographer :)
Luke decided he wasn't ready so we moved on to Crime of the Century.
He got it clean twice on top rope but was gassed and decided against leading it.
I got a cool shot of him doing the Kahoukers move.
Relic at the crag
Merry Christmas ya'll!! gotta go ride some pow.
Nice pics everyone! keep it up!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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Pack your pipes it almost the four hundredth and twentieth post!!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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It certainly didnt feel polished in the brisk decemeber temps.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
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Crime of the Century had the best friction i've ever experienced on it the other day. I almost cleaned it but still managed to loose it just before the top.
HAHAHA I pulled a #1supermama and deleted my link to grossmans thread so Luke could have post 420 :)
Here it is again.
Awesome Squamish thread bump!
Classic-Squamish-Chief-Commentary-Robin-Barley-1978
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/511948/Classic-Squamish-Chief-Commentary-Robin-Barley-1978
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
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Take that anders!!
Long live free weed and no work!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
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It's impossible to believe that anyone here would be dumb enough to smoke anything, to inhale smoke - apart from campfire smoke, that is. It's bad for you, and we don't do things that may be bad for us, do we?
Is Crime of the Century getting more polished? Certainly the start is about a metre lower than it originally was, and that is one of the hardest bits.
Now Tami has #420, FWIW. Considering she lives at the Weed Farm, possibly apropos.
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