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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 11, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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A)It's Rainbow Park.
B)Pleasant Pheasant
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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That's the challenge Jim, for now it's just best to climb routes you have wired as it would be tough to be trying to onsight or send something with that thing whirring near u. Maybe I'll try & get a photo of the setup next time.
You are wrong Relic- on both. Nobody knows this one? No sport climbers on here eh? Hint- The route he's on even has a few jams & is 10d. Lakeside park by blueberry?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 03:23am PT
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That thing is so cool. Amazing potential... Imagine the pans you could do.
Thanks for that Jeff and Ryan!!
No clue as to the route, but the park in my pic has been recently reno'd if that helps..
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 12, 2012 - 09:56am PT
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Beers are not enough?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 11:16am PT
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I missed it Ryan but you got it.. That's not beers, the corner isn't prominent enough...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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squirt gun and a camera... that would be funny!! :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 12, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
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Don't need a squirt gun today.
Probably wouldn't bust out the chopper at a busy crag since it does make some noise. Not quite lawn mower loud, but somewhere between an electric toothbrush & a blender filled with mashed potatoes. I think he's gonna have some great success with it in the ski/snowboard department.
The route is at chek & is the first line that was climbed on the wall & still one of the best. I'm sure at least BK has done it??!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Is it Bullet the Blue Car 10d? at forgotten??
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 12, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Ding, ding!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
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Ahem Clearcut was climbed before Bullet the Blue Car and is just a few meters left!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 12, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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Probably wouldn't bust out the chopper at a busy crag since it does make some noise.
Nothing that a carefully aimed rock or carabiner wouldn't fix. Maybe try the thing out on some boulderers first? Some of them seem to enjoy a circus like atmosphere. Better still, get some lessons on kite photography from Chaz, and do that.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 12, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
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No sport climbers on here eh?
Does the now over-written Gom Jabbar qualify? Not that I clipped many of the bolts, but I've done lots of the Chek climbs probably including Bullet the Blue Car.
It was amusing to be up there this year and see the bolts sinking into the moss on Boot to the Head. I guess we'll all land in the recycle bin one day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
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Dru I was thinking the same thing but I guess clearcut is considered to be on conroy's castle
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
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I won't say that the Forgotten Wall saw a lot of activity in the 90s but Guy Edwards amongst others did try what is now "From Beneath You It Devours" on marginal gear several times. I remember belaying Guy on one of his attempts and his only piece was a blue Camalot about halfway up. It was pretty interesting watching him try to boulder out the crux moves and then downclimb 5m until he could safely fall off...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 12, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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Oh Anders, always taking cheap shots at the boulderers. Just because we are tattooed & shirtless while wearing toques & shouting terms of endearment in other languages doesn't automatically mean we like circus environments?? If I ever catch u near the boulders we're gonna blow pot smoke in your face & force u to do some overhead heel hooking while flying heli cams all over the place capturing every moment :-)
MH2 what climb is boot to the head?? My info on BTBC being the first climb on forgotten wall comes straight from the old select so it is possibly.........wrong. Great climb either way & a good one to throw your gym climber friends on. I did get a free QuickDraw off that Clearcut climb the other day when walking by, it was on the 3rd bolt at a roof but there is a ramp that u can walk right up to there! Yay booty!
Oplanax or MH2 or anyone have any stories about when climbing first started happening in chek canyon or any of the other bolted areas north of town?? Nordic, rogues, calcheak?? Oplanax shared some info a while back on that OW near brandywine which was pretty interesting, let's hear more if there is more?
Edit- Oplanax is already on it, thanks!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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It doesn't sound like climbing with guy was ever boring......
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 12, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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There was climbing in Cheakamus Canyon proper at least from the late 1960s, both at locations downriver from StarCheak, and Trestle Tower. In the 1970s, we took people on the FMCBC mountaineering course there for their rock weekend. No reports of heli-bouldering, though.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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gf can probably share tales of climbing at Chek earlier than I can (92) and no doubt Tricouni was cragging along the Starvation Lake road crags in the 60s as well as at Trestle Tower.
I recall gandering at all the rock in Cheakamus Canyon quite a bit in the early 90s. After a hiking/paragliding trip up Gentian Ridge with L.H. we were driving back from Rubble Creek and I was gaping out the window at some roadside rocks saying "Those look pretty good for climbing!" L told me "No one will ever come here to climb. The place for new routes is where the people are - in the Smoke Bluffs". Six months later the roadside rocks I had been gaping at were Rogue's Gallery and it was game on.
I have to say that most of the routes I have done in Cheakamus have been roundly ignored, probably because they almost all take some gear and no one ever goes to Cheakamus with a rack. That said I think some of them are pretty good.
"Jugular Vein" at the Rehabs is a beautiful line - laybacking a wide crack then endless gym-feature holds up a steep wall.
"Nine Inch Rage Against Jane's Tool", besides having a name taken from the Georgia Straight music classifieds section (I think it was in the bassist wanted section) is one of the steepest 5.8s in all of Squamish, more so than the Milkman, and entirely gear protected too.
On the other hand "Beefwhale" is a dog. 50 hrs of scrubbing and 10 hours of hitchhiking for that? Some really fun moves, but it grows over too fast to be a classic. At least MH2 belayed me. The part I remember now about that climb is the hitchhikes home from Cheakamus scrubbing missions. I would be standing next to the desolate pre-Olympics road with my thumb out, covered from head to toe in lichen and dust. When someone eventually stopped their first question would usually be "What did you DO to get dropped off HERE?"
Climbing with Guy was always fun. Actually just being with Guy was always fun. Shopping cart races down the 4th Avenue hill, storm drain swimming, all that. I really still do miss Fast Eddie. I think everyone who ever met him does.
MH2 do you still have the GE vs TM Herbert pants comparison slide?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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Drew, I thought you were talking about either beefwhale or Memphis bound.. I've done the latter but not the former. Maybe time for a scrub to check er' out!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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Beefwhale was probably actually first climbed but not scrubbed by John Chilton in 92. By the time I started scrubbing in 94 there was no sign of it ever being done, but there was webbing on top around a tree. I figured someone had probably rapped in to check it out.
I always figured the chimney/gully right of Memphis Bound would be a great mixed route if the moss froze, but on the winter times I have been there, the moss has been too dry to freeze. There is a 2 inch splitter crack in there under the moss though.
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