Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 01:52am PT
|
Hahaha nice.. sandbagged himself! ;)
RyanD,
You (and others) should put up more stuff here. I really liked the Planet Caravan/ Liquid Gold/ ... sequence back here -
+10000
Take more pics bud!! post em up!!
I'm hoping luke is just saving his for winter ;) Apparently he hasn't figured out how he can post his pics from his Ipad yet.. I think i can figure it out bud, and as to your time issue just stick to Squamish Photos and Stories!!!
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
Glad u guys like my iPhone photos I'll see what I can do.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 02:11am PT
|
I'm considering getting one for route photos in the valley.. I don't really wanna drag the SLR everywhere...
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 05:04am PT
|
Managed to get out today after a quick visit with the family up the new island speedway. I picked up Kieran at the ferry terminal after I got off the ferry and we headed up the old sea to sky with a warning from Nathan about a speed trap at Lions Bay.
The mission of the day was to hit the grand wall and for me red point the Split Pillar. When we passed a cop sitting on the overpass just outside Porteau Cove after the big lights show in Lions Bay. I thought uh oh.. Sure enough there was a black undercover truck with someone pulled over, and a tow truck with a bike on the back, and five minutes down the road a biker walking to Brittania. Brutal.....
When we arrived in the parking lot Nate was waiting for us, he didn't have a partner and Kieran had asked me if he could join. I didn't mind having the extra rope since I didn't get much sleep this weekend and wasn't feeling so hot.
Kyle and Nina were there too and we were scoping out the traffic. We saw one party about to start the pillar, and what looked like a party of three on merci me, but actually turned out to be a third party.
With three parties on it allready it was starting to look like a bit of a gong show. The pillar party was actually moving pretty quick, so we were hopefull that maybe if we delayed a bit by linking Exasperator into Peasants and doing the cruel shoes approach we could kill enough time to have a clear shot at the pillar for my redpoint and then bail so Nate could get a ride back to the city with a buddy of his.
When we got up to the base, there was a party on the flake with a HUGE 60l bag I couldn't believe this chick was climbing the flake with such a large bag on. I asked them if they had intentions on the Grand Wall also and they said "There's three parties ahead of us!". WOW!
To boot there was a party on Exasperator. There was much debate as to try and run up Apron Strings before they got up there or even the flake escape to get to Merci me before they did. That also would have meant being 4th in line and the second party looked to be pretty damn slow.
Kieran said "I just want to climb so we decided to start up Peasants route. I gave Kieran the first lead because I was trying to save energy for the Pillar and to give him a chance at the onsight. He did well on the first pitch and linked it into the second quite easily. He was a little slow on the next pitch and suffered for it at the top. He took a couple good whips at the crux and then got a small nut in high and sent it proper.
He brought us up and Nate took the lead. He linked the next two pitches and it seemed like he flew up to the belay it was so quick. We gave Kieran the last crux pitch and after I sandbagged him with some tall guy beta and he proceded to whip. He figured out it out with the normal person beta shown here (not really hahaha) by Kyle.
It was 3:30 by this point and Nate's ride was supposed to pick him up at 4 plus we would probably have run into the bag lady at the base of the pillar anyways.. So somewhat reluctantly we decided to bail, probably for the best since it was getting pretty darn warm up there by that point...
We did two raps to the base with two 70's (over exasperator and sneak right at the end KNOTS IN ROPE!) and Nathan peaced out. I suggested to Kieran that we try Flex Capacitor 10c, one of Jeremy Frimers new routes. He agreed and we wandered over there after chilling at the base for a bit.
Here's a thread and topo about it, http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3568&hilit=flux+capacitor
Kieran wanted the first pitch 5.9 so I happily agreed to lead the 10c second pitch. It was pretty warm at that point and Kieran almost greased off the first pitch a couple times, as did I.
I left most of the big stuff at the base thinking I could get small gear in between the pods and only took 1 #3 camalot. As soon as I got to the belay I could see that was a bit of a mistake. The really wide stuff at the end has bolts but it would have been really nice to have had a #4 to just plug and go instead of shoving smaller gear into the good fingers.
I gave er a shot anyways and got about halfway before I greased off. It was so hot at that point. I fought another piece in and had to take again get a breather. The sun was just killing me and I had just drank my last sip of water. I managed to get back on it and get to the belay, but I felt like I was going to grease off the whole way.
I lowered to the first Java Jive belay, and as soon as Kieran started climbing the sun went behind the ridge and the cool afternoon Squamish breeze hit my face. With the conditions much more favorable he Tron'd it. (Top Rope On Sight). Dammit... another redpoint I need to go back for! :)
So it's probably a good thing that I didn't get to the pillar, because by the time I did I would have either a: greased off again, or b: Got Nate fired for missing work tomorrow because he couldn't hitch a ride after dark...... ;)
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
That gif is making me dizzy. Oww my brain.
|
|
thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
|
But if you would have got Nate fired he could go to the valley!
|
|
Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
|
I love watching people try to solve that puzzle on the last pitch of Peasant's Route. From the Grand Wall and from Millennium Falcon you can watch them peek around the corner, then reach blindly for the bolt with a draw, then peek around again... Kind of like groping for a light switch in the dark. Strangely enough, once you know how to do it it's usually easier for smaller folks providing they can high step decently.
It was a pleasure to find that exit out of the corner over twelve years ago, and I still enjoy doing it every time. It's one of my favorites to send unsuspecting friends up on. Especially If I can be there to watch!
K
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
|
I fixed the GIF... i think..
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:05am PT
|
Went on an Incredible Journey today, my friend Jeff tried out his remote heli cam!
He usually takes winter photos, see them Here
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2012 - 11:50am PT
|
Your friend Jeff takes GREAT photos.
The iPhone can do a good job, too. Technical excellence not required. There is a stitching app that made me jealous of my friend's much smaller and lighter camera, and he emailed it to me from here:
(photo by pazzo)
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
|
MH2 u are correct, he takes some sweet shots for sure & this new remote heli cam is the future IMO- for climbing, snowboarding, skiing & W.H.Y. most serious photogs will be doing it in the next few years, or wishing they were. His setup is really interesting, the heli is guided by a gopro hooked up to a monitor in real time that you watch from the ground. Then he has his big DSLR mounted on the heli with a remote shutter that he hits whenever for stills. Definitely a lot easier than rapping in from the top & pushing yourself away from the wall or setting up a human tripod to get top down/birds eye angles.
I like that pano shot, I have an app called photosynth that does the same but there are a bunch of different ones out there. A bunch of photos on my Last TR I used it, very cool.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2012 - 12:38am PT
|
We can perhaps all agree that it is the way the picture makes you feel that is important.
With that out of the way, I think I see an interesting future for the heli cam, and thanks for RyanD for bringing me into that future.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:10am PT
|
Is that partly about this location, approximately opposite the trail in to Angel's Crest?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:15am PT
|
Seems likely. The squatters used to congregate on a sandbar on the Mamquam, up from its confluence with the Squamish. They got evicted by the District a few years ago.
Campers seem dispersed all over the area. Some are discreet enough to go a reasonable distance up logging roads before camping, but some seem to think they're entitled, and camp at the site Bruce mentions, on top of the Malamute, and in other high-impact locations, especially when more than one or two are involved for more than a day or two. Quite unfortunate.
Someone should put the people who Bruce quotes in touch with the Access Society, and maybe they could FaceLift the area. It's possible that it's not just climbers, as there's a long tradition of squatting in the Squamish area. But it seems likely that climbers are involved.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:37am PT
|
In that spot in MH2s photo I was hiking a few years back & came across an entire community back there, 20' tee pee with a wood stove in it & all! It was a mess, I wonder where they were poo-ing. Camping off the Mamquam FSR & in the spots Anders mentions is lame, not picking up your trash is even lamer.
Jim B- I like butt shots as much as the next guy & agree that they are often the ones where the most emotion are, seeing as the subject is literally & figuratively attached to the photog, but the thing I like about the heli cam is that it will permit views & angles that we have never seen in places where a real heli cam or even some rigging is not possible or practical. I do see the point though of it being like using chalk or sticky rubber, it makes things easier in a way. However, when someone with a keen eye & some solid experience can use it as a way to enhance their craft & have fun as well I see it as a successful tool that can help progression of an art form.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
|
I agree entirely. If you are gonna camp be low pro about it and leave no trace!
I've been playing a bit with my iPhone this morning to see if I could
Figure out how to post a photo direct to thread and i think I got
It.
Anyone know what this park is?
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
|
Ya. I been really high on hallooseagenics and peed off that dock.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
|
Me too, Wayside.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
|
not quite... it is a side but not way...
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
|
I'm not going to get in a guessing game with you big mike!
Actually yes i will.
More Heli Cam. What route is Remy on?
I bet even some of the OGs have done this classic clip up.
& heres some video.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!