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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I got us a cheap deal on a rental car so all is well. I used to love driving down there but now I'm old and cranky.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey Tami
"Go Greyhound, for that 'head' start".
It should take less than a week each way. After resting up for a while, you will have at least one full day to enjoy the sights in the valley, and take some pix, before heading home. A big advantage of bus travel is that you won't need to drag all that climbing junk down there with you.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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Ooooohhhh... The Rostrum..... I'm skeeerd! ;) Well, Perry did say I've already climbed a mini version of it.... Sounds like fun! Freeclimbing will definitely be the focus but I'll be bringing the pocket etrier just in case....
Arrowhead looks cool! I dunno if I can convince Relic to walk that far, maybe me and Ais will ditch him at the camp 4 boulders that day ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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The looming cliffs of the Valley can seem like a prison if you don't make it to the rim. Get that out of the way first and your whole perspective will be more complete. The long routes to the rim are some of the best things that the Valley has to offer. the less time on the floor, the better. Live Upfull.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Well we don't leave till Friday so not much chance of that... Hackuweather forecast looks promising, but who knows. We do have a car with unlimited miles on it. Maybe we'll go visit cosmic in josh if things turn for the worse... Thanks for the pics, looks awesome!! I have to get you your shoes back sir. I'll send you a pm and try to get it done before we leave.
Andy- What is that climb!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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Ya I saw that it looks like it's taking a turn for the worse around here.... I love it when a good plan comes together!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Anyone here enjoy checking out the waterfalls around Squamish? A mate and I found the Upper Mamquam falls yesterday and they were stunning! I've been looking on the world waterfall database and there are several falls around here there are worth exploring. Some nice ones on the Skookum, Ring Creek etc...
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MH2
climber
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The route in the picture is intended to be the North North Arete. It is hard to be sure that you are on that route until the very last pitch. I'd done it before but that didn't help. However, the description in McLane 2005 mentions a yew tree, which I believe is the tree the rope runs past.
That was the first and last time we felt pretty sure we were on the climb.
We had gone up Parallel Passages to Astro Ledge and met Paul Cordy. When he heard we were planning to do North North Arete, he recommended an alternate finish.
Just above the yew tree we left North North Arete, if that is what we were on, and found the variation Paul had suggested.
(photo courtesy of Andy Traslin)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Well it's good to see that MH2 is getting after it still in Squamish, well done sir. Cool photos!
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MH2
climber
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A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.
And p'rhaps even a tank wouldn't save ya from the rebar. New chapters in the Book of Squamish Stories are being written on the North Walls. Or maybe soon there will be condos for sale?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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How was Parrallel passages Andy??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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North North eh? haven't ventured up that one yet... Damn did that log ever bounce! It's allways handy to have a chainsaw up there eh ;)? Looks like things are happening on the north walls for sure..
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MH2
climber
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In the part below Astro Ledge Parallel Passages runs through blasted ground. There is grit and an air of large-scale looseness. Whether from the big rockfall a few years ago or a testament to the huge energy of Paul Cordy, I don't know. I happen to like the battle-zone feel.
Above Astro Ledge, Parallel Passages is a great addition to the North Walls for the 5.10 A0 climber. Has great climbing, a wild feel, and delivers you to the 4th summit.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Don: Yes, I got the present that you left for me with Tom - he put it in my tent. Thanks!
Glenn: Saw Chris Jones and Alex Bertulis, but not the TYA folk this time.
Andy: Wow! I didn't know you were climbing at Squamish in 1964. How did you deal with the p'terodactyls? Anyway, let me know if you want the original route description for North North Arete - you know you're on route if you go through a "gap" in the arte, with two boulders wedged in, which you sort of chimney around. The second ascent party did the Chlorophyll Variation, and there seem to be others. Staying just left of the 'crest' of the arete is the ticket.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks Andy, great photos too as always. Looks like a treat to climb a bunch of 5.10 on the white stuff!
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MH2
climber
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Mighty,
Time is nuanced and hard to decipher on the North North Arete.
Thou sure and firm-set earth,
Hear not my steps, which way they walk, for fear
Thy very stones prate of my whereabout,
And take the present horror from the time,
Which now suits with it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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If you see Eric's lost (1973) Adidas shoe from the FFA, you know you're on route.
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MH2
climber
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There is a small story to that, Greg. Tom got to the top of the 5.10 and started up the 12a face. I yelled something at him but he didn't seem to hear. Later, he congratulated me on doing the 12a, which took me completely by surprise since I went straight to aiding the bolts. He read more into my steady progress than he should have. Not only that, he acted on his assumption.
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