Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
We may be LIGHT but I have never flown anywhere on a climbing trip, so I'm excited. It's turning out to be surprisingly cheap and easy thanks to Wayno and Ghost offering to help. Staying down there will be sweet the night before, thanks Wayno.
I've never been tooled hard at the Peace Arch, not too worried. The only tooling I think we will feel is by check-in baggage clerks, a vicious bunch they are. Oh and of course, the Park Rangers... they been toolin' me there every chance they get.
RyanD, haha yup. When you are wondering where Relic has disappeared to, odds are I'll be in the C4 boulders or Buttermilks!
|
|
Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
|
|
So who was that on Negro Lesbian the other day? Finish or bail?
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
|
Sorry Nick, we sidetracked a perfectly good Squamish thread with all this valley talk.... Oh well, we still need another 1008 messages to reach Rolf's prophecy anyways!
Thanks for the hospitality Wayno and the offer Dave! That's huge! Good thing I managed to get you out cragging eh Wayne? ;)
So who was on Negro Lesbian? Post up!
|
|
thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
|
I snuck out work yesterday to check the progress on NL. Our unidentified friend was back at the belay he was seen trying to fix from the night prior and appeared as tho he was preparing to RETREAT!
Who ever you are: post up.
Speaking of which I might as well link my report of my solo on strange brew(a.k.a. Light weight lane) http://thekidcormier.blogspot.ca/
Wayno: I'm not going with Bruce. Hahah he only wants to take pictures of their foot prints I wanna shoot one and make a nice one piece suite :D
|
|
Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
|
|
All good Mike, stoke is stoke is stoke. I love the Valley, can't wait to hear your stories. Do Central Pillar of Frenzy, you'll have a blast.
I'd like to see how they retreated from where they were. I only went and looked at night, but it seemed they were past they point of an easy descent.
|
|
Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
|
|
I wanna shoot one and make a nice one piece suite
You'd look better in a two piece, Lukey.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
|
It didn’t sound like my voice but I figured it must have been me as I watched singular crystals of granite join and smear into streaks, and calmly observed my acceleration. It was quite interesting really; quiet yet violent, and as elegant as a ballet dancer gravity slipped it’s tendrils around me and pulled. I became aware that I was in fact falling and that I had been for a while, when suddenly the static reality I have come to know over the years returned. I looked down to find Nathan a few meters below me....
Sick writeup Kieran!! Thanks!
Tami- Unfortunately I don't forsee myself climbing much with Luke, as he is an aids climber these days. He will be up on the captain with bigwall Doug while Relic I and entertain Aislin.... She certainly seems happy to have someone to climb with rather than sit in the valley by herself all week.
While three is often a crowd, it's a great number to free up the cameraman!!
|
|
Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
|
That was me on Negro Lesbian.Not much to say other than it beat me down! Couldn't get past a section of heads through the roof of the 4th pitch. Blew out a small circlehead and took a big lob in the dark. Thank god for screamers is all I can say...Tried it again the next day but I was rattled and my heading skills weren't good enough to get anything to stick Didn't have anything to remove the fixed mank with either.It's a great route though, pretty cool to be swinging around in those roofs. Be sure to bringa hand drill and butterknife if you want to go for it, I had to re drill some blown out batholes at the top of the 3rd . I'll be back for it after a bit more experience....
P.s Fish Boy, I owe you beer... Give me a shout with when and where I can settle the debt! Will be around Squamish until mid next week.
P.p.s rapping from the top of the 3rd is okay. You hit the slab about 4m right of the anchors at the top of the 2nd. Then there's a bolted rap station about 50m straight down from the anchor at the top of the 2nd. Rapping through those trees with a haulbag was so miserable it was kind of fun...
|
|
The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
|
|
Four thousand (mostly on topic) posts. Too cool. Keep 'em coming!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
|
Nice work Paul! Thanks for the report, and the bump. I'll take # 4000!!!!! Only one thousand more people! ;)
Edit Lou beat me to it! Nice work! :)
|
|
thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
|
I knew it was you up there Paul! Did you see me creeping? Nice try dude, you made it higher then me and fishboy have so far. Pretty late start on Thursday night eh?
You're developing a reputation for blowing out copper heads..
Good on ya for trying tho. Does any one know it it's been successfully solo'd before?
P.S. epic blog post kieran.
|
|
Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
|
Thought I saw a couple of people playing the "flash the torch" game alright! Yeah, late start on the 4th because I screwed up a bit at the top of the 3rd.got to within one bathole of the anchors then the very last one was blown out and I'd forgotten the drill at the bag. Had to back aid the roof, rap down, get the drill, jug up, re aid the roof and fix the hole. Lost a lot of time.Underestimated the 4th as it was so short. One tip for the top of the 3rd, look for hidden rivets....Managed to miss it and traverse about 30 feet left to some old fixed gear at the edge of the roof and pop an old angle.All in all a failure, but an exciting failure and a lot learned.
As for heads....I hate the little buggers! They lure you in, hold for long enough for you to start thinking about the next piece, then BOOM and you're airborne! Bastards.... You guys heading to the valley soon? I'm driving down there from squam next week.Would be nice to put some faces to names after lurking this thread so much!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 12:39am PT
|
Ya Paul,
We will be there this weekend!!!
WOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOO!!!
SEE YA IN THE DITCH!!
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
So Luke, are you going to the Valley or hunting for bigfoot? Do you still need the ...?
|
|
hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
|
|
"Flight is lite. Go Greyhound!"
Kids these days.
After you warm up on Bishop's Terrace, a classic which Aislin will enjoy, head over to Church Bowl Terrace [not so classic], if it's still in the book. Full TR with pix required.
|
|
Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
|
|
Hey Paul, rad work! I've been looking at Negro Lesbian as the wall I really want to do for a year now. Luke and I bailed thanks to snow and perhaps too much sh#t. I'd jump back on it in a flash.
Monday night we should go to my mates spot down near the river. There are three other Irish lads too....we'll be in touch, wanna hear about those roof pitches....
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:27am PT
|
Hamie- Would you rather sit on a bus/honda fit? or climb?? I know which one I want to do... Hell maybe i'll get some cool dingus style pics!
Full TR with pix required. Duh.. was thinking I might get a few out of this trip!! Maybe even get an Iphone so I can do updates from the ditch!
Don't LOSE YER HEAD on the Hound!!!!!!
HAHAHHAHAHAHA... ROFLOL (rolling on floor laughing out loud!)
|
|
thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
|
Yes wayno, I still NEED the...!!!!
I'll email you some details
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
Good wishes on the trip south! A car and/or a bike are good to have in The Park but can be done without.
Hey, Anders, interview me. I'm a 60s-era climber. Recently, too. 1964 to be specific.
We saw a light up on the wall on the trek back to the car that was probably Paul B.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!