If it was bolted on lead...

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Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 8, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
One of the super-cool things about sport climbing is that you don't even need a natural line;....just follow the bolts!.......(Boston ex-school-teacher Steve Angelini at Wild Iris;...." The best sport crag in America.")

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 12:01am PT
EVERYONE loves sport climbing;......Everest AND K2 summiteer Fernando (Columbia) sport climbs;....it's not one or the other;......it's a universal love of closely spaced bolts and bolted anchors.....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 12:05am PT
We need to paint the name of the sport route at the base of the climb too....(as here in Luxembourgh...).....bolts, paint;.....just so it don't hurt the plants and animals....I don't see a problem........

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 12:07am PT
Mormons love sport climbing;.....it's a good thing....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 12:12am PT
Kurt....buddy;......you ran it out too much on the ground up on site of Black Out in The Meadows........learn from the French.....learn from the French....(FA Kurt Smith, Black Out 5.10+/5.11- R)...it's the "R" tag;.......scares everyone away from a beautiful climb........(Bachar on rope taking pics...)...


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 12:16am PT
Shelf Rd....NOW we are talkin'....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 12:21am PT
Draws only;....can you dig it......(Queen Creek, Ariz.)......

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 12:27am PT
It may LOOK funny to you;....but you know it's fun.......(some of Red Rocks first sport climbs....)...\


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 12:30am PT
Ethics....smethics......just so you are having fun......right....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 05:27am PT
Be a hero.........be a sport climber...

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 05:29am PT
Sport climbing;...raging intensity......(Love Gas......)...

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 05:33am PT
Participate or just sit in the blechers and watch....it's all good.....


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 05:39am PT
Embrace the future.....(I've never met a bolt I didn't clip...)...

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 05:42am PT
With the price of gas today;...who can afford cams.....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 05:49am PT
It's all about being safe and practical;.....do the climb, lower off back to the beer....repeat.....(Keep it real...)...

Degaine

climber
Jun 9, 2011 - 06:35am PT
Just a quick FYI on climbing in France :

*Not many cracks or gear placements in limestone (at least the limestone in the Alps), especially when compared to California Granite. There would be maybe 1/50 of the climbs in the French Alps if bolts were not allowed.

*I've climbed a few gear only climbs on limestone, not easy to protect, some horrorfests, and not many opportunities for gear climbs beyond the 5.10 b/c level. To climb the harder climbs (5.12 and above) bolts are the only option.

*Lot's of the climbs on limestone in the French Alps were bolted on lead (90%-99% of Michel Piola's routes), so while not as run out as Tuolumne, one does climb 40m pitches with only 6 bolts.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 10:29am PT
Ja,Ja....I climb de big mountain, und I clip the bolts....ja,ja.....

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jun 9, 2011 - 10:30am PT
Hi all ..... I just read the whole thing beginning to end. Wow, now I feel the need to smoke a cig.

Its all climbing, gravity rules.

And Kris when you related your "Pirate" send, you left out the fact that you had your rack organized so you could pull the pieces off in the order that you needed em.


Is your EGO trying to hide that fact from the rest of the TRIBE?


This is a common trick of yours. You even did it on this climb.... THE SHAME!



Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 10:34am PT
Bolted on the lead, Joshua Tree California....( I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa....)...........(Also, Kris and Guy;...it's common knowledge that climbing in girl's tights is cheating;....the extra pressure on the gymbag stimulates the prostate which releases endorphins into the bloodstream;..it's sort of like blood "doping".....Lance Armstrong,etc.....sorry;...by Kris' 5.13 sends at Joshua Tree don't count;...none of them....but the red DOES look cute on him.....)....


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 9, 2011 - 10:48am PT
Oops....sorry;....wrong thread.....

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