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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
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"woot" boy....bwahahahaha!!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Oct 19, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
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...self-referential implosion.
Great phrase.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 19, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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Those that add bolts to routes should have their hand jammies cut off.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2015 - 06:45pm PT
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They can't....there belay glasses only allow them to look up.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Locker, would you be okay with a reach around? Burchey wants to know.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 19, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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You guys have to hi-jack this?
It's a ST interlude.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2015 - 08:00pm PT
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A little humor wouldn't hurt at all.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 19, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
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Hey mike dot
does your pm function work?
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Oct 20, 2015 - 03:09am PT
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OK,ok,lets stay on topic
Erik is like ISIL - - - destroying existing masterpieces, so that no one in the future can enjoy them
The FA can act as a final arbiter on any changes as long as the FA is alive and of a reasonable sound mind and the climbing community generally respects this rul
PERFECT "NEW CLIMBING ETHICS" LOGIC: Royal Robbins is almost/maybe/gonnabe senile, thus Erik 'Nanook' Sloan can drill the ever living sh#t out of Tis-Sa-Ack, and drill 100+ holes, at will, and dumb down the original route.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 20, 2015 - 03:20am PT
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Yes to that ^^^^^
Well put!
And what the EF?jlp? What's wrong with you Of your 11 pictures and. . . . oh wait
That is respectable : 1655 shares !
You are very righteous here, . . . . actually I take that back I half agree with you
Can WL weigh in please ( Weston, them doggies need to be added here - hear? )
Doc did you mean to add to the humor break?
Until you pointed it out I never saw it!
A Mike Ro dot reference - micro-dot that's funny!
I've clearly had too much. . .sorry carry on. . .
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Oct 20, 2015 - 03:24am PT
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Its the fine line between maintaining fixed gear and anchors and the animosity that comes with any change. The guy doing the work feels he has some artistic license for the effort, while the armchair mountaineers lodge complaints like salvos across the bow. I've seen it a thousand times..
If you're replacing anchors and fixed pro there should only be enough flexibility in the process to do the replacements such that the route climbs the same and there should be no 'artistic license' of any kind to change the locations or to retrobolt.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Oct 20, 2015 - 03:37am PT
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I'm now inspired by Erik Sloan, to go into the nearest art museum, and spray-paint over every thing I don't like.
Woot woot.
I have just improved bad art. I have now made it better. Lotsa people are stoked. I can't wait to spray paint over more bad art, to make it better.
Woot Woot Woot Woot Woot Woot Woot."
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 20, 2015 - 03:53am PT
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He is working on a legacy.
He clearly plans to lionize his accomplishments selling books to the gym generation, reduced to the lowest common denominator . .. filled with Topos and bolt counts. . .
step by step, climb by The numbers -
risk? What was that? . . . it so 80s. . .90s ... 70s,.60s..50s
The experience and adventure, confronting risk and over coming it , is the essence of what it is go climb
Especially in Yosemite
Doing it for short term - hero I am - Doing it For short people? Get the EF out
Lynn hill Ray Olson Sue McDe . . . We do not want or need things brought down ...
We are better climbers gettin' it done with half the strengths and three times the technique !
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Oct 20, 2015 - 08:08am PT
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Still waiting for a reply Erik to this question:
"Erik,
I'm waiting for an answer still regarding how you treat old bolt holes. I'm trying to sort fact from fiction here, and I appreciate the fact that you're (mostly) honest).
Here's my question (and comment) repeated:
"When you don't re-use an old bolt's already-existing hole, do you pull the old bolt out and then patch and camouflage the old hole?
I've gotten mixed messages on this thread about how you deal with the old holes.
(And I'll go first with my thought on this subject this time - I always pull the old bolt and very carefully patch and camo the old hole - anything else is disrespectful of the rock and of all climbers that come afterward)."
Keep the response plain and on point please."
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 20, 2015 - 08:16am PT
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Hmmm Eric....I did the Salathe Wall 44 years ago probably with the original 13 bolts you speak of. The technical hardware then was inferior to what is avalable today yet I don't recall any issues with the climb.
You say that today there are 90 bolts...why?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 20, 2015 - 08:36am PT
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No local here but I just spent a month in the Ditch. Observations indicate that Erik has an extremely tenuous grip on reality.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 20, 2015 - 08:38am PT
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It's just hard to have one of those about replacing bolts, because not many people know that much about it(what is involved).
Yeah, we're all just a bunch of n00bs here. Do continue yer condescension and dissimulation.
Hoot?
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Oct 20, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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Erik, what you write here on Supertopo doesn't make any sense. You give the impression that you don't need anyone else for a conversation.
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raymond phule
climber
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Oct 20, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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So why is ASCA and for example Roger Brown against your practice? Don't they know anything about replacing bolts?
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
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Oct 20, 2015 - 08:47am PT
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To lament that routes are being modernized is silly - change is constant. Climbing should be about the climbing - not the few fixed anchors we need to spend days on the walls.
Well there it is....your opinion, but your opinion is the deciding voice making these changes.
My opinion it that I wish I could climb the salathe with it's 13 bolts, but you are ruining that experience. Pretty sad that the old codgers with nothing more than pins did it with 13 bolts, and us modern climbers can't hang.
The slander, logical fallacies, lies and misinformation in this thread have rendered it and all opinions expressed within as totally worthless. I'm sensing a bromance!
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