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RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jul 28, 2012 - 04:08am PT

I'm good for Monday, could be fun! I want to lead it too!! Not too early, going to see Iron Maiden Sunday night, u OG's ever hear of those guys? :-) I agree with Bruce, this thing never got climbed by anyone but Anders & was likely a jungle/tree climb before he put in the time & knuckle skin & buffed that whole area, making it much more desirable- Or at least as desirable as gaping chimney OW can be. When I did the tantalus crack last year it looked like there was a few other climbable cracks on the face near the left side as well, not sure if they've been done but I think overall the whole pinnacle looks much better than it did a few yrs back.

Edit- ghost those bolts on borderline OW seem pretty well placed & don't seem to dumb the route down at all, or change the character, what a wierd pitch that one is though. Im sure many have a hard time reading that one. My first time up there i got soooooo bouted on it after cruising the finger crack. Great job on that line BTW one of my favs.

2nd edit- I was bouldering the day u boys went up there & remember big mikes big screams coming from up on the wall! Maybe he should lead it:-)

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Jul 28, 2012 - 10:09am PT

I'll probably be bouldering on Monday, but I'll pack a harness just in case of....

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Jul 28, 2012 - 02:37pm PT

After I posted the above comment about people not whining about the bolted OWs on Borderline and Polaris, I realized it could be interpreted as "people shouldn't whine about bolts on off-widths".

Which is not what I meant. Certainly not with respect to the bolt on the Pinnacle. If the FA crew has a strong opinion, then my view is to respect that opinion. I suppose there are times when you could say the FA was done badly, or deliberately in an unsafe manner, or whatever, in which case a community consensus might be for a change. But that's relatively rare.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jul 28, 2012 - 08:25pm PT

You guys have fun on YPLS, eh? Maybe you should just leave a VG#9 fixed at the crux, thereby satisfying everyone. It would be moveable, and so leaders could wiggle it upwards as they climbed, and then when they're all done, they could re-place it at the bottom of the squeeze, ready for the next climber/sucker. Better than a bolt at the bottom, less controversy, and those not up to the climb can always use the cam for a bit of portable aid, to get by the crux. Can't do that with a bolt.

I volunteer Bruce to donate a VG#9 for this noble purpose, maybe with a nice little plaque to honour him.

Or you could just man up and do it in mountain boots with a 3/4" angle. Though to be honest, the natural thing is to lassoo the chockstone as soon as you can - Hamish must have been climbing very well to not have bothered.

There's decent protection between the belay and the start of the thrashing, probably better now that Bruce has excavated the crack. So it shouldn't be a factor 2 fall, even though the excellent belay cedar is sadly no more.

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Jul 28, 2012 - 09:23pm PT

Perhaps you can delight us nubs with a lesson in the fine art of lassoing. Luke tried several hammer tosses, each one missed the mark, resulting in a hammer nearly smoking his helmetless noggin.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Jul 28, 2012 - 10:34pm PT

You need to warm up for this by climbing Navy Seals and Kneewrecker.

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Jul 29, 2012 - 01:25am PT

A hammer toss was once the classic way to finish the top pitch on Tantalus wall.

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Jul 29, 2012 - 02:21am PT

What sort of gear did you guys use on earlier free ascents of tantalus crack? The offwidth I mean. Did you just run it out like crazy?

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2012 - 12:38pm PT

Wow Dru. Excellent suggestion. I will have to follow up on that one. Navy Seals sounds cool.

I'm down for YLPS on Monday, I will send out PM's today to arrange it.

Did a run up Stairway to Heaven yesterday with my buddy Ben. Here are some senics from along the way...

Top of the Dyke Link

Tantulus rim walk

Black Dyke belay

If you count the distance horizontally as well as vertically this has to be one of the longest routes on the Chief. Super fun!

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Jul 29, 2012 - 02:23pm PT

WTF is navy seals?

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2012 - 03:54pm PT

Navy Seals is a 10a chimney on the south end of Seal Cove.

thekidcormier

Gym climber

squamish, b.c.

Jul 30, 2012 - 01:41am PT

You guys should arrange your ascent publicly so the spectators in the valley know who's leading what and thus who they are rooting for and who is yelling profanities!

Mike I get a kick out of how you address super topians by their super topo name when speaking aboutthem but by their first name when adressing them on super topo. Classic.

I look forward to pitch by pitch updates.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2012 - 02:53am PT

This pseudonym thing can get a little confusing sometimes so i just like to have a little fun with it.. ;) if it bothers you let me know, i'll make sure to address you appropriatly. :)

thekidcormier

Gym climber

squamish, b.c.

Jul 30, 2012 - 03:27am PT

Doesn't bother me, I think it's awesome, espicially with tami because it sounds like you were there.

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Jul 30, 2012 - 10:48am PT

I like how luke only writes on stupor topo and doesnt answer his phone text messages! What a lurker.

thekidcormier

Gym climber

squamish, b.c.

Jul 30, 2012 - 11:54am PT

Phone fell in a 5er of clear coat...

That and the fact I've worked 75hrs in the past six days with no prospects of climbing rocks in the immediate future may be starting to get to me... I appaulogize for my snippy comments.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Jul 30, 2012 - 01:33pm PT

Check the tide tables before you do Navy Seals. It starts below the high tide line. On the first attempt I got inside and thrashed for an hour and the tide was coming in... Cam got wet feet by the time I gave up.

I came back with Luc Mailloux and he styled it. It was all about putting the knee on the same wall as the palm and the heel on the same wall as the back, by the way. For me. Big Mike I think may have to come up with a different arrangement.