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Out_of_bounds
climber
BC
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Jul 23, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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Hey folks, first time posting to the thread, but I have been a long time lurker. Thanks to the collective of people who keep the stories, photos, trip reports and the entertaining jibber jabber rolling in. It does inspire me to take more photos and write a little about my adventures.
It's great to hear David P.Jones name come up. He and his partner Joie Seagram are unbelievable, definitely hero's of mine. His resume of climbs just in the Selkirks is amazing. It also seems like he put up lots of FA'S in Squamish, Ridge Runner is one of my faves in the Smoke Bluffs.
It is not Squamish related but I'm wondering if "GF" could tell us a little about the first ascent of, "Yes Please Spire" Northwest - West Face. the description in the guidebook makes the approach to the bottom of the spire sound long and technical, never mind the actual climb itself. Maybe a good story if you choose to share GF? And thanks to everyone again for the best climbing thread around.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 24, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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Unfortunately the planned mid-summer release of Davey's current project, a guide to Rogers Pass, has been delayed. Apparently one or more of the photos did not meet the high standards of his discerning publisher, and will have to be re-done. Put it on your Xmas wishlist.
David Jones is the most common name in Great Britain, and is shared by approximately 14,500 people, presumably all males.
The real Davey has reportedly been seen swinging ice hammers again, but has so far resisted the temptation to boulder, or participate in dyno contests. Among his many other accomplishments Davey is also one of the genial co-hosts of the infamous 'Jones and Seagram Flying Circus'.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 24, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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And all this time I thought the Squamish climbing character was a kk klan member, but now I see the whiskers and know its a rat.. Hmm
P.s. hi outofboumds'! Post some loggin pics and stories.
And definitely want some Gf stories
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 25, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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I haven't seen Dave Jones in a long time either and even at post middle age was a powerhouse for cleaning new routes in Skaha, just look at Claim it all wall. Here is a shot of someone who is no longer with us that was also full of much joie de vivre. The late Guy Edwards on a 3 hour ropeless ascent of the north face of Viennese peak in 1994. We were back in Vancouver at 2:30 pm and he headed up to Squamish for more climbing that day, what an animal.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Jul 25, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Hey Harry,
Awesome pic of the late great "fast eddie" aka "eddie sender"
Bump for some Guy Edwards stories...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Wow! Ask and ye shall receive! Another lurker too! Welcome!
I would love to hear some Guy Edwards tales.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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I consider this my baby Tami as this is where I spend alot of lunch hours but I guess it's really yours, the sign you made for it is long gone unfortunately. Does Ed still make these? The style is very unique and I'm pretty sure the rock in Storybook Gardens in London,Ontario is one you guys made.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:08am PT
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Riley Park ?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Riley Park ? Yes Rolf
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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Up here in the north we call it gription.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 26, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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On my first trip in to the Chehalis we spent all day getting to the base of Grainger and set up camp. Then these two kids showed up at our camp. It was Guy and Kaj and they had left the trailhead maybe 15 minutes before us, cruised a route on Grainger and come back to camp in the time it took us to do the approach.
They were wearing matching pants that Guy had hand-sewed from his mothers curtains.
The next day they tried the unclimbed west face of Nursery, bailed and headed out while out group climbed the south, west and northeast ridges. We were stumbling out late that night and I found this thermarest lying in the forest. Booty, right? All I had at the time was an ensolite so I was pretty stoked.
Day after that I was sitting in GEOL 200 and Guy sits down next to me. Seems he was in the same class. I made the mistake of mentioning my awesome thermarest booty score. Turns out it was Kaj's. Oh well.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
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Awesome story Dru! Thanks!
Silver- so when are you coming up here? ;) bring a vg9 when you do and we'll go free hamie's beloved pinnacle from that evil bolt.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 26, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Guy had a knack for saying the awesomest things, whatever he was thinking.
Typical conversation: I run into Guy outside the Student Union Building.
Me: "Hey Guy, how's it going?"
Guy: (incredibly loud voice) "I'm super horny. I'VE UPPED MY MASTURBATION FREQUENCY TO TWICE A DAY!"
UBC girls immediately vacate the plaza in large numbers.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
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Guy Edwards, Cam C and I went to check out a route called "Machete" which is a super obscure 10d offwidth on a crag near Brandywine Falls that you have to walk down the train tracks to get to.
The crag is across a pond from the tracks, and there is a trail around the pond.
We got to the base, checked out the route and decided to climb it, but this meant hiking back to the tracks to get our climbing gear. Guy decided to race me, I was running around the pond on the trail and Guy was swimming across the lake.
I beat Fast Eddie! No joke. He ended up carrying all our gear back around the lake buck-naked. Then he cruised Machete. I flailed so bad on that thing trying to second on TR, I don't even think I topped out.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 26, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Hey thanks for sharing guys, funny stories. Sounds like Guy Edwards was quite the character, & a machine to boot. Is this route machete on basalt oplanax? Is there other climbs there?
Big Mike, Are u really planning a chopping mission?!? Let me know so I can go climb it first!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Ryand- if i can get up it without using the bolt, its as easy as hammering it in.
Let's go! I would love to hear your first hand opinion, and i definitely can use the offwidth practice. I would leave it if i thought it was encouraging more ascents but the truth is no one even knows what ypls is much less where it is. If you are an offwidth fan then you probably own the gear you would need to send it anyways.
Great stories guys! We finally found a topic that got dru excited!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 26, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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Not basalt. Quartz diorite, Cloudburst Pluton, same rock as Chek. \
There were a couple other projects at the cliff last time I was there, more than 10 yrs ago.
Park at Brandywine parking lot and walk south along RR tracks as if heading to old Brew Lake summer trail. Crag is on your left about 10 minutes along on the other side of the pond.
I still miss Guy and John quite a bit. Guy in particular was a very good friend 1992-2003. I remember one time after I moved to Chillidog he came over for a visit and we were talking about another climber who had the annoyoing habit of calling you on the phone and then unlaunching long and rambling narratives without much point. Guy said something like "I put down the phone and went and did some pullups. Then I went and made a sandwich and ate it. I came back to the phone 15 minutes later and picked it up and he was still talking! What a monologue!"
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
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Video of Guy on Mt Alpha in 2000 coming shortly to a theater right here.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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On my first trip to Skaha in 1990 with my New Zealand friend John McCallum we were heading up to have a go on this new climb, Wings of desire.John ran into a young student he knew from UBC at the base.I was climbing Wings as he arrived and after when I came down I was looking for my high tech energy food that I brought with me,a bag of chocolate chip cookies.When I reached in the bag they were all gone!This young punk had ate ALL my cookies.Well I was pissed and he came up and very sheepishly said he was sorry he was so hungry he couldn't help himself and promised to replace them.He was 17 at the time and that's how I first met Guy Edwards.After this I videoed Guy following Test of the ironman and we all went back to the campsite where he proceeded to keep us in hysterics with his many stories.
While on a visit to Red rocks with some friends in 1996 we all headed into town for a cheap buffet.As we were heading down the strip I noticed this person climbing on the front facade of one of the casinos with the valet, security guards and a crowd of people watching him. I remember saying check this nutcase out only to go WAIT A MINUTE THAT'S GUY EDWARDS. I did not know he was even in Red rocks but there he was oblivious to all the attention and traversing this rock wall out of reach of security.
I climbed with him and his hand sewn clothes alot over the years and we had some great adventures on the rock and some great entertainment off the rock. RIP Guy Edwards!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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Bump for Harry, how's the edit coming???
Kieran reaches for the crimp on Lost Horizon
Thanks to everyone for your contributions here, this thing taken a life of it's own!
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