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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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That's the first thing I've seen on this thread that looks like Don Jensen's MacInnes ice hammer. Pick is the right angle, and notice how thick it appears.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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And this little excerpt from Annapurna South Face (climb summited May 27, 1970),
Referring to an "all metal" MacInnes axe w/ steep pick and particular notes on Chouinard tools.
(Curved adze reference in the text is I think intended to mean pick?)
Then, "The Whillans Whammer"?!?
Described earlier in the appendix:
"an all-purpose modern tool combining a descendeur, ice-pick and hammerhead."
WTF?
An ice tool with integral descending/rappel device?
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Can't be too careful. You just never know when you'll suddenly need to bail...
WHAM! -- and down I go
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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Now there's a tough photo to find! No sign in your book, Roy! I recall a spaceage little goodie!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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heh... no sign of it in the book's pictures.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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And only thirty or forty Bonnington books to peruse! LOL
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Yeah, and most of em not worth the trouble...Sir.
I'll look for my literature over on the William S. Burroughs thread, thanks.
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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How about more of this?
Eric and Luci photo.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 12:37am PT
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You always did like your Lunch Naked!!!
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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On the Dru Coulior '73.
Ian Clough or Hamish McInnes? Same lineage? McInnes axe from the late '60s. One of the very first full metal axes with a red rubber/plastic coating. Gordon, know anything more?
DR is this similar to the axe you remember Don Jensen was using?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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That is a really cool find Dane!
'Pushes our vintage axe conversation right on down the road...
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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It is the hole in the axe's head and the funky "nail" end spike that makes me think they are the same or at least a similar production McInnes axe. I don't think Nicky Clough is climbing with a matched pair of tools in the picture.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes, also the oval stamp on the pick of the ax in each picture.
I'm perhaps spotting some differences with her north wall hammer as well.
Neat stuff.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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That's Don's tool!
Thick pick. Might have been a bit straighter than that.
Two worthless little half-round divots on the underside. Check.
Shaft is right. The rust-red stuff is rubbery.
His was the hammer, remember, like the one in Nikki's other hand.
Where on earth did you turn that up, Dane?
I had to have one too. Found an axe version, and my metal-worker friend Thomas cut off the adze and welded me on a hammer face. After I had Chouinard gear, John Fischer took that hammer to South America and left it with a local. No photos remain.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Tut Braithwaite on that simul-solo Dane mentioned way up thread:
Yvon Chouinard and John Cunningham near the top of Ben Nevis:
Shelter Stone Crag with the Line of Citadel dead center:
Gordon Smith heading up Citadel in 1975:
Ben Nevis in clearing storm:
Our "cheating machine" in '75. We were filming Yvon and Johnny for a never-released Nat'l Geo extravaganza, and were ferried each day to the top of the mountain!
Clocwise from top left, on the summit of Ben Nevis: Yvon Chouinard, Johnny Cunnigham, Hamish McKinnis, Tut Braithwaite:
Zero Gully dead ahead, Hadrian's Wall and Point Five up and right:
Closest thing to Scottish ice in Colorado? Duncan Ferguson and Mark Wilford on Englishman's Route, Hallets Peak, mid-80's.
Duncan totally stylin', as always:
Mark & Dunc:
Duncan, MasterOfTheThinIceUniverse, Ferguson:
Jello, shaking his way up the Smear of Fear, in the spirit of the Scots:
Jello again, tickling the North American Crystal, on the Glass Pony Shop, Jaque Cartier River, Quebec:
Ephemera, Jaque Cartier River:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 04:18am PT
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Tut and Jeff on Ice Again! YC's caption reads "piolet traction is being used where it belongs here!"
Nice shots Jello!
Wee Jock- I am no lover of flexible ethics even if it's Hamish doing the tweaking! The aid matter was put to bed with Polar Circus and the Bugs McKeith chapter over here. The line is always clear if you are straight with yourself.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Thanks, Steve, it was fun digging them out. Now it's time for both of us to get some sleep!
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Wee Jock
climber
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Hi Steve, old bean .... I'm not really talking about flexible personal ethics, I am wondering about the ethical principles that are the accepted ethics in winter climbing today behind, for example, 'torquing' as free climbing Vs 'French Free' pulling up on a jammed nut as aid climbing. Should using ice axes on/in rock, as opposed to ice (and frozen turf) be considered aid? (I would say yes) Do crampons qualify as 'nailed boots' (I would say yes and traditionally using them is not aid, even on rock) ... but ice-axes qualify as sky-hooks and crack'n'ups. Or is it the same ethical leap in principle as the leap between cutting and pointing and therefore OK in principle?
Just an old fart wondering about the new ways and wishing that there was an icy goulotte someplace in the steamy jungle back of the boat anchorage......
By the way, Dane I am far to young to know anything about that red handled beasty thing in your photo
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