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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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"fortress of posers"; now that's funny.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Send them to Tami's daycare for hypers. Works for Dean.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Will Loki be attending?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Cracked your rib out rock climbing I would have to assume Hamish?? Couldn't have been on the bike since u can just put your foot down when it gets crazy eh?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 28, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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Ryan if you wanna try an easy Jim Sandford route you are looking in the wrong book. Dig out Island Alpine or the Fairley Guide - south face of Golden Hinde goes at 5.4 and is Sandfords first FA.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Ya Ryan, your're right, I blew it and crashed. I seem to crater every 70 rides, give or take. Every injury is worse than any climbing mishap I encountered, but for some reason it still seems worth the pain. Usually it's smooth sailing but now and then all the planets don't line up correctly.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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Hey Oplanax, thx for the recommend, Jim B wise words.
Heal up Well Hamish!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Thanks Jim and Ryan. No problem for a big outfit like this. Hey Jim, keep those pics. coming. Ed S. drawing was some of your best work.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
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Sorry to hear about your rib Hamish! Heal well!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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OK you guys. No ribbing Hamish. No tickling, telling bad jokes...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Le Bruce that's p2 or 3 depending how you put it together of Sprung Cocks
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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Thanks Mike; don't be sorry at all. You wanna play, you'll have to pay. A couple of ribs a year is totally acceptable for the amount of fun going on. It's just the flipside of why that sport is so mentally stimulating, that's all. I did squeeze 70 something killer rides in since my last rib-owee. Just a numbers game.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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Wow looks awesome Bruce! Where is it?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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That photo is awesome Bruce that crack looks stellar.
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harryhotdog
Mountain climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 29, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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As a new member at supertopo I have to inform all of you that there has been a great deception that has been perpetrated on all of you. Jim Brennan is NOT a trad climber like his moniker implies. After climbing numerous sport routes in Skaha that day in 1990, Jim is following a gear route and takes a cursory jiggle of the gear before declaring in that prepubecsent sport climber's whine."It's STUCK" It's as if spending more than a couple of seconds trying might harsh his mellow or something. Then at the top he is clearly in distress after climbing a 5.4 crack! I also know that just like all his retro gear from the 1950's that he still uses, he also has in his closet various pairs of multi coloured lycra that he only brings out for special occasions. All this leads to only one conclusion. Jim Brennan is a closet sport climber. [youtube=http://youtu.be/rsNaCXo94nc]
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jun 29, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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All big routes should be done with a partner in equal awe of the objective, that's where the best value lies.
Word up J.B.! Where it's at yo!!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 29, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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50 years ago this August, Glenn, his brother Bob, Tony E and I made the FA of the higher Anderson River Peak. Now that's a scarey number. Being of reasonable intelligence, we scrambled up the right side somewhere, at about Class 1. None of this crazy stuff that BK relishes. It was probably my first FA of an unclimbed summit.
The second photo shows Glenn/Nails/Tricouni on the way back. In BC bush it is often easiest to hike down the creeks, esp in late summer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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Wow guys! Super cool. Anderson looks awesome!
Me and my buddy Rick ditched work this afternoon to go climbing, but by the time we got home to grab gear and check the webcams, the deluge had allready begun in Squamish.
Being that it was still dry in Whistler, we were determined to get out so we decided to head up to Suicide Bluffs.
Crossing the Green
Ok so it wasn't a beautiful day but it was dry so we made the most of it.
I suggested we do It's Not Easy Being Green as a warm-up, but Rick was uninterested in repeating it so we went and found something new.
Rick tied in for: Poop Ship Destroyer 5.9???
I'm pretty sure we had top-roped this at one point with Jesse, and Rick thought he had also.
Rick tried the opening moves a couple times, but couldn't get to the first piece and decided to back down. We thought about toproping it but I was pretty sure i could get it done, so I decided to give it a shot.
I found the "secret" aka "covered in moss" hold and was able to reach and clip the first piece giving me a bit more confidence. It seemed the gear got better as I went, and I gained confidence as I climbed. I got er done, and was pretty stoked on the heady lead.
Rick on TR
After we went to The Big Tree 5.9 because Rick hadn't done it yet and I knew he would like it.
Clipping the first piece
Suicide is awesome, and it needs more love! Go climb there. Bring small cams and micronuts and your brain cause placing gear ain't like Squamish.
topo: http://www.drtopo.com/submitted/suicide.pdf
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Hamie wrote...
we scrambled up the right side somewhere, at about Class 1.
Actually, Hamie, it was the left-hand skyline we scrambled up. We were all blown away by the scale of the walls in the area.
This was my second attempt on that peak. First was in spring, with Dick Culbert. We forded the flooding Anderson River (I almost drowned), camped, waited out the night in heavy rains, and bailed. River was very low in August with Hamie et al., and the weather was excellent.
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