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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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To the best of my knowledge the last pitch (now bolted) IS the last pitch of WL. In 86 the most certainly were no bolts on that slab but most sane people simply finished up on the easy dihedral of sickle. Only the truly bold and foolishly stupid were likely to try it with no pro. It just so happens I fall nicely into the latter category.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Oh nice, great photos & stories guys! Thanks! White Lightning is awesome, & unfinished symphony as well! Was nice to meet Luke, Nate & Aislinn. I was hoping to get a shot of Luke on the lower cracks but he scampered up geneside? before i could clean the bolted face to the left on tr & get the camera out! Good climbing guys. Is there free climbing on lost at sea? Looks to be a wild slab!!!
White lightning is super cool. IIRC the anchor is kind of in a wierd spot at the base of that arete pitch. The 2 5.10 dihedral pitches on Unfinished are also among the best on the apron i'd say,where does dream symphony join up with unfinished?
So many classics.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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He took one look at it and announced he could walk up it backwards..."As a matter of fact I'm going to do it while eating this apple"
He then went about doing exactly that.
This is funny ^^^
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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Thanks Ryan
The dude was super funny. Seems the giant banana slugs we have around here were novel to him...spent all his rainy days "slug spotting"
One time I was having trouble on a crack and turned it into a mobile top rope, feeling guilty I apologized for over protecting. He just looked up with a grin. "Don't worry about it, it's kind of pretty. Looks like a Christmas tree"
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2012 - 09:09am PT
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Now that's awesome :)
Tami - WL definitely felt like old school .10c at that crux pitch there....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 09:35am PT
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My '92 guidebook says the direct finish up the arête that heads over to a bolted station on the slab next to Diedre was done by E. Spat and D. Hart Sept '90.
Alternatively traverse into Diedre at 5.9 with no protection.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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My borrowed copy of Jim Campbells Squamish Rock Climbs suggests on pads their way up the unprotected slab beside Diedre until the Diedre top out move.
Rock Climb On
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Relic; the hammocks safe in my gear closet, waiting for you to get on a wall with me!
I cant believe no one got excited about Zombie Roof being freesolo'd, that seems pretty real to me, like Honnold only solo's 5.12 I think, that sh#t is 13b...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Climbers had done some sort of "fourth pitch" to WL by the early 1980s; the question is exactly what they did? That is, did they go fairly directly to Diedre, or did they go up some distance first, and then across? And how does what Dean and Ed do fit in with that? Dean? Yoohoo - you can come out now.
As for climbing slabs backward, and other entertainment - it's quite possible on pure friction. Our legs aren't articulated the right way, so you have to more shuffle than climb. But I draw the line at doing so with a banana in hand.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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Judging by the dotted line assigned with the letter R the first ascent party, consisting of Gordie Smaill, Steve Sutton and Paul Piro, meandered their way up the slab avoiding the easy dihedral as long as they could and eventually topped out as you would for Diedre.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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I met a fellow by the name of Terron(sp?) at Pennylane yesterday, and he had cell phone photos of Young Stanhope ropelessly crushing every move.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
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That would be exciting, I wonder if crashpads were employed.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Chris starting up the first 10d corner of Unfinished Symphony. We climbed Dream On to get here, finding it pretty stout. Do people really 2nd that mantel on the traverse? Wow.
Yep. My partner and I tried Dream Symphony prior to it getting new SS around 2005. We had to bail below the crux slab when the sun came out and tried to melt us off the rock. We need to go back and finish it proper.
What I recall of Dream Symphony:
P1 (Mine): Looks like cake from below but then you realize the 3(?) bolts in a full pitch of 10c is QUITE the "warm up"
P2: Fun with bits of gear mixed in.
P3: This was the BIZ for me. 10d, runout above old 1/4in bolt at the time. My partner confessed later he was terrified watching me on this one. I recall being WAAAY out above the last bolt looking at a rail about 2 feet out of my reach (The rail was the obvious salvation hold as it lead right to the belay above). I just needed to get to it.... Lots of time working the moves while feeling the ticking time bombs of my tenuous toe smears SLOWLY moving off the dime edges. I had to reposition those feet more than once and more than once I was convinced I would be taking the "big ride". Finally, I unlocked those moves, made two TERRIFYING and committing moves up and slapped that "thank god" rail with a loud "WHOOOP!" My partner shouted with glee as well!
P4: The Traverse pitch mentioned above: My partner led out and traversed up and over to where you pull over the overlap. The only pro he could locate was the upwardly placed fixed pin. Not exactly confidence inspiring when, if you do fall, you'll fall and try to pull that sucker straight out. After MULTIPLE false starts, he commits to the mantle over the overlap and nails it. He then makes the traverse left, along the lip of the overlap until he can pull over the bulge and into the Unfinished Symphony corner proper and get to the belay. That didn't look HORRIBLE. I think. WELL, for the 2nd, as noted above, FOLLOWING is likely MORE intimidating since now, you'll unclip that pin BEFORE you make the mantle. Since there's little if any pro after you unclip that pin, you're looking at a pendulum fall into the corner of Anxiety State. Yikes! I was worked after reaching the belay...
P5: What a great pitch! Tenuous corner climbing and smearing while fiddling in tiny gear. The greatest challenge for me was NOT putting gear where you wanted you fingers. After a LONG pitch of climbing I had nearly reached the belay. I WAS pressed into the corner with the fingers in two small pin scars. I almost REACH the belay bolts. Only two more moves... DAMN!!!!! While making the last (and seemingly hardest) moves of the entire pitch I popped. I could've grabbed the bolt and been good but took a little ride. So close and yet... Great pith none the less.
P6: My partner really styled this pitch. While also rated 10d we both thought it felt easier than P5. Larger holds and more options for gear. What a 1-2 corner combo!
P7: The Skeleton in my climbing closet. I set off on this pitch but was both mentally and physically drained at this point. The sun had popped out and was now cooking the rock and we had underestimated our water needs. You don't realized how much you BREATHE hard when doing spicing slab!. I had several attempts at pulling the moves up and out of the corner onto the crux slab face but just couldn't muster it. So close and yet so far...
We bailed to the shade and a swim over at Murrin.
One I NEED to go finish. The name is SO appropriate... DREAM/UNFINISHED SYMPHONY!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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I think it's amazing. Good for Will. It used to be a huge deal to climb that thing with a rope.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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Awesome story Matt M! You had my fingers sweating on that one. My girlfriend and I hopped on that route earlier this season, we approached via snake, then we both pulled on the bolt at the 11b move...
Bail or no Bail, still a great story none the less.
Hamish; It still is a BIG DEAL to climb it with a rope!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
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Hey i admitted i was being a dink & erased my post. I also think zombie roof soloing is super badass, as well as climbing it with a rope. I was feeling a little cantankerous on this rainy morning & made the mistake of talking some sh1t when i shouldn't have. sorry, not at all why i joined the toprope. I actually joined to perv on sierra granite until i stumbled on this thread :-)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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Ah crap, did I miss some super taco drama? Mudslinging? Did someone spell someone else's name wrong? Phil me in
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 13, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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I think it got weird when they started calling each other cute.
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