Yosemite Bolt Wars

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Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
May 7, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
This is what you'll be remembered for instead of everything else you've done. congrats. very cool to be an iconoclast.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
May 7, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
James Lucas is not the first person to vandalize an icon because of his own inability to deal with his inner demons.



Vandalism of art refers to intentional damage of an artwork (for unintentional damage see accidental damage of art). The object is usually exhibited in public, becomes damaged as a result of the act, and remains in place right after the act. This may distinguish it from art destruction and iconoclasm, where it may be wholly destroyed and removed, and art theft, or looting.
Numerous acts of vandalism against art exhibits are known and some objects, such as Mona Lisa, Night Watch and The Little Mermaid, have been intentionally damaged several times. Many vandals were diagnosed with a mental disorder and some, such as Hans-Joachim Bohlmann, had a history of attacking artworks. A vast amount of damage consists of leaving a minor scratch, a stuck chewing gum, a pencil mark and so on, and usually escapes publicity.[1] More visible acts of vandalism were premeditated, as the tool of destruction – a knife, paint, acid or hammer – was intentionally brought to the scene. In most cases, the artworks were restored. Restorations were costly and time consuming and in many cases were followed by shielding the artwork from future attacks.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
May 7, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
I saw Fattrad posted on the comments section. I'll put it down as he doesn't post here now.

"Jeff Elfont · UCLA
James can forget about being Yosmite's next idol, he may get beat out.
Reply ·
· 2 hours ago"
10b4me

Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
May 7, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
you guys better watch out. James is friends with Alex
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
May 7, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Maybe you'd be bitter too, if all the cool kids ran around soloing stuff so you thought it was the cool kid thing to do

and then you decked.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 7, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
This thread is like Herpes
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
May 7, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
Man... this hate-thread just keeps on going. I still can't figure out whether he is trolling or desperate for attention.
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
May 9, 2013 - 09:26am PT


I've been to parties like this before
Nobody moves they just stare at the floor
Everyone's watching waiting on me
As if my words will set them free

But I'm not a ghost
No I'm not a god
I hold no power over you
I'm just a lightning rod
I've bottled every crush
Every foolish fantasy
I'm to beautiful for love
There's no sharing vanity

I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary
Welcome to my masquerade

I've been to parties like this before
Where the prom queen is easy on the floor
Nobody know what to say or do
So they point the fingers at you

But I will not be swayed
I won't be led astray
I'm to beautiful for blame
I always get away

But I'm not a ghost
No I'm not a god
I hold no power over you
I'm just a lightning rod

I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary
Welcome to my masquerade

I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary

Welcome to my masquerade
Welcome to my masquerade
Welcome to my masquerade...

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
May 9, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
D#@&%er of a move.
Captain Triage

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 9, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
I'm a 60-year old wanna-be climber that can barely lead a 5.8. I have experienced the sense of history in Camp 4 since my first visit there in 1973. I have gazed at the lightning bolt many times wondering what could have been, had I lived my life differently. Could I ever have gotten good enough to do it?
My jaw drops at the self-indulgent arrogance of a man who unilaterally takes it upon himself to destroy a landmark that belongs to all of us.
canyoncat

Social climber
SoCal
May 9, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
How do you "destroy" a landmark that has already been redrawn several times? The original is long, long gone. Read the thread and look at the pictures.
Stevethefolkie

Trad climber
Abbottstown, PA
May 9, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
I remember when RR chopped the bolts on the Harding route "wall of the early morning light" - back then I tried to figure out the logic of increasing the size of a physical scar that will never heal to satisfy a sense of personal superiority and or ego. The simple fact that you can justify an act or action in your own mind, or rationalize it to your personal satisfaction, does not make that act or action either right or correct, and "fashion" changes (I still don't believe "sport climbing" exists) - the bolts were placed as part of a creative process - chopping them is an insult to the creator, especially if, absent the bolts, the route cannot be replicated.

my 2cents - probably 2X it's actual worth
Captain Triage

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 9, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
To make canyoncat feel better, of course it's been redrawn over the years. :p Nonetheless, he appointed himself the sole judge of what is correct and attacked a tradition that is meaningful to others and has historical context. It was arrogant, if not sociopathic.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
May 9, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
Chances are good that his shtick won't play so good at this year's Facelift.
orle

climber
May 9, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
James is still recovering from a bad head injury and is not totally in command of all he does. How many years has he walked by the bolt or tried the problem itself? Now all of a sudden he just can't leave it alone?

Hmm..
orle

climber
May 9, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
From the R&I article:

Everyone I spoke with felt that the magic was still very much a part of the bolt. So I decided to ask Lucas himself why he felt so strongly about removing the bolt, and how the drawing had become a trademark. Unfortunately, although he did respond, Lucas refused to be quoted.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
May 9, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
thread keeps on giving

if anything, it shows how important this chalk art really is to climbers. maybe that was his intention.

some of these posts make it seem he hurt or slandered somebody. easy with the lynch mob. sheesh.


hang in there james :)
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
May 9, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
I remember when RR chopped the bolts on the Harding route "wall of the early morning light" - back then I tried to figure out the logic of increasing the size of a physical scar that will never heal to satisfy a sense of personal superiority and or ego.

It wasn't about superiority or ego. I think RR planned to chop it to say there is limit to what is acceptable to get up a climb, saying you shouldn't just bolt your way up an unnatural line. But of course part way up it he STOPPED chopping, because he realized there was some inspired climbing on it. That climb serves as a great lesson to all of us, not because it got chopped, but because Royal realized he should STOP chopping it and had the courage to admit he was wrong.

Too bad the Wings of Steel choppers didn't try to climb it first, they probably would have learned the same lesson and wouldn't have done the things they regretted later.

Edit: or another lesson in here, if you have to do something under the cover of darkness you're probably going to regret it later.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
May 9, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
I posted this elsewhere but it seems apropos all of a sudden:



Look. I think we’re all in agreement that every new boulder problem does not demand eternal memorialization in any medium, chalk included. We have also come to a place where every new big-wall route does not demand a bolt ladder to the summit, a la’ Harding, or stringing miles of fixed rope on huge alpine faces (OK, if you’re Russian, we’ll talk). But allowances can be made for circumstance. Harding gets a pass because he was the first one up the Captain. Hillary gets a pass on the sieging thing for being the first one up Mt. Whatsitscluster. And the lightning bolt is an expression of a particular, game-changing, time and place. That time has passed, but it continues to inspire.

The guys who climbed the Lightning (and I am not one, not even close) chose to memorialize this particular pebble-wrassle because they knew it was special. They didn’t do it again. Leave it alone, and find a better way to draw attention to your blog.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
May 9, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
#emoclimberkneejerkreactions
Messages 201 - 220 of total 249 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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