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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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You had infidelities with that chick? Not bad for an old man.
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GuapoVino
Trad climber
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Great thread. Looks like an awesome place. I'm going to be in southern Utah this summer with my three kids on our annual summer trip. I'm going to detour through this area for sure.
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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American Legends take their wimminz out to She Lives, none of that Whip and the Cross nonsense. What kind of pervert are you?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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Wayne County Morning Bump!
BK looking pretty
The new Wayne County guide calls this thing "Beginner's Luck", V3:
It's all yours, it's all good. Rockhizzle in tha cowshizzle.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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bvb... I was hopeing for a real sh$t slinging to go down.
That makes for some good reading.
The pictures your posting, make me want to quit the job, load the car and hit the road.
Is this wayne county good in the summer???
has the camping really gone bad?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
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bvb... I was hopeing for a real sh$t slinging to go down.
Well, we can still hope, right? It would make for some great intardwebz theater! We could even bring LEB back for it!
On the other hand, if you google "the horn+henry mountains+climbing" the very first two image hits are these:
Not a secret spot, never was, just obscure, hard to get to, and lacking a roadmap-for-the-masses guidebook. This is as it should be. I dispatched a posse of Flagstaff's finest up there a few years ago, and they came back raving about the place. Just raving. "Godstone", "Unreal", Best EVAR", etc.
And...they've never gone back, ever, not once. And really, that's the whole story of Wayne County climbing right there. Proximity is crucial to regular visitation.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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Is this wayne county good in the summer???
has the camping really gone bad?
With the exception of some of the lower elevation Capitol Reef Bouldering areas (5500 feet) everything in this thread is at or above 7,500 fet, so yeah, it's good in the summer. Capitol Reef dome-a-neering summits are all 7,000 feet and up and there's always a cool breeze so they are great anytime of the year. In what passes for the dead-of-summer months (July and August) you'll want to stick to mornings and afternoons. Afternoons are always good, when between the bone-dry air and the altitude it cools off fast.
All of it is public land, so camping is free and plentiful and nice, although up in the Hankries you need to camp well away from the burn zone. Even now, 10 years later, the old camping area is one big ashtray. Everthing you own will turn black. The soil is gone and has been replaced with several inches of black soot.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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If you want a Utah crag to EXPLODE... just tell everyone it is secret.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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BVB... thx for the info. Never to early to start planning for the summer.
Those rocks look sort of like Suicide... is that stone like the stuff in the bouldering pics... you know, featured? Solid?
And yea, I know about killer good rocks that just take a bit of effort to get to. Like a 1 hour up hill hike....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
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If you want a Utah crag to EXPLODE... just tell everyone it is secret.
Yeah. The traffic at Big Rocks has been off the hook since the Russo Guide in what, 1999? And Bjornstad's Capitol Reef guide in '97...HO MAN! Indian Creek hoards did a mass migration like "whoa!" I tell ya, one false move and Wayne County is gonna be seeing, like 50 climbers a year. Paging the Access Fund!
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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I think we can all agree that the Wayne County region is totally stacked.
So what's the deal BVB are you going to make the jump back there? Can we crash there and help re-supply your remote outpost? Seems like you're building up to something here.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 02:48am PT
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[img]
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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I think we can all agree that the Wayne County region is totally stacked.
So what's the deal BVB are you going to make the jump back there? Can we crash there and help re-supply your remote outpost? Seems like you're building up to something here.te Here
Actually, yes, JK. I'm seriuously considering getting a place there. I have Kathy Bagley on the lookout. You can get gorgeous 1930's stone cottages for ~80K. And it was always my favorite place to live. Kyle is 20 now and talks about wanting to go back all the time. So do I, if this thread has not made that obvious! Crib in Flag, Crib in Torrey, wtf I'm retired, why not? Of course itinerant cragaddicts will always be welcome to drink n' doss. Back in the day Casa Van Bubba was Rancho Gordon East.
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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Well either way it would be great to see you guys down there. It's almost Black Pudding Mesa / Hog's Back season.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 10:09am PT
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Yeah, Jonny owes me a death runout down there. DOHT! Although Darrel's description of evil greasy dimes runouts off buried peckers for pro sounds a bit to "Beau Geste" for me. I'm all old n' creaky n' stuff.
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weezy
climber
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is this the wall where jonny's routes are?
went down there looking for boulders that were recommended to me but it was too hot that day. i was specifically warned about staying away from the routes on the wall unless i was ready for some gnar. BD used to have all the employees' favorite climbs on their website and i remember JW writing about a route on BPM as "a tasty morsel most people couldn't stomach." hah.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
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Because info on the Mount Pennel crags is so readily available to the truly interested, and I located them with no assitance or beta from anyone, I have no compunction about discussing them. But I only climbed at B^$@* T&^%$ once, was an invitee, and so cannot make any comments without violating my somewhat fluid and flexible code of personal ethics. I will, however, remark that if you never go there it will dramatically improve your life expectancy. I imagine that if you know about someplace like Dark Canyon, you'll have no problem arranging a proper tour of the Mount Hillers stuff. You should ask around about Bull Mountain. I've heard good stuff.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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JW recommended 1 route there.
Ed: "Is it a typical Woodward route? I'm not sure I have that in me after a 5 hour drive."
JW: "Nah, it is totally safe."
Ed: "I've heard that before!"
JW: "Nah, I wouldn't do that to you."
Thank god it was Ed's lead because I only took 3 pairs of undies that day.
I've got the month of April to be poking around Ibex, Joe's, Uintas, LCC... any other new top secret spots?
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weezy
climber
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and so cannot make any comments without violating my somewhat fluid and flexible code of personal ethics
werd. i've been sworn to secrecy before, but only in AZ.
don't ever take sides with anyone against the Family again. Ever.
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