How Very Scandinavian of Us

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cowpoke

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2009 - 09:03am PT

Climbing in the Magic Islands may be available through www.abebooks.com

Indeed, they had it, and it is now on its way to me -- great call, Mighty Hiker -- takk!!

I'll checkout the new guide too...I really appreciate the help. However, I'll have to wait until I'm in front of my Norwegian-to-English dictionary to translate the rest of your post (other than Norge and thank you). I've learned only the most basic phrases...so far.

i have only seen such nice stuff as this in the national geographic when article on norway, or land, in similar areas, was done...

Hey neebee, National Geographic recently ranked the western fjords as the top travel destination in world. Despite the silliness of such rankings -- I'm sure they name a different place every year and try to spark argument -- Norway is a wonderful place of cliff and sea that could not disappoint, whether climbing or just admiring (for the most part, we did the latter...this time).

And, thanks so much for the congrats...ditto to Nohea and Jobee. This trip was a terrific addition to our family story.

Really like your TR though, is there more?

Ah, not too much more drama, on-topic anyway. Demonstranten was not the easiest route on which to play photographer, primarily because most pitches start and end with bulges (making it difficult to see your partner until he/she arrives at the belay).

I'm really hoping to get some of the travelers of the north (like you, Larry) to post up photos, routes, and beta. Kelly is humoring me by entering discussions of an adults-only trip back to Norway next summer; the plan would be to center adventure on kayaking and climbing (and kayaking to the climbing). Ideally, we would team up with another couple...hint, hint.

If next year's trip keeps taking shape, I'll post a more transparent thread title in the spring asking for ideas/beta...but, until then, here are a few more pictures in hopes of evoking a response from folks who have the goods...

(ah, gads, photobucket is under "site maintenance"...I'll edit in the pictures when it is back up)

perswig

climber

Aug 12, 2009 - 09:29am PT

Um, holy crap. Nice TR; that wall in Aurlandsfjorden looks inviting and dire at the same time.
When are you going back to do the ice routes ;)?

What a surprise Chiloe has your guidebook. He's probably MORE-travelled than Ed Webster, if that's possible.

Dale
(by the way, how'd you end up with my heinous purple and yellow rope?)

MisterE

Trad climber

Canoga Porn, CA

Aug 12, 2009 - 09:30am PT

Looks like a great trip - really nice write-up and pics.

Very unique Trip Report! Thanks!

cowpoke

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2009 - 10:20am PT

how'd you end up with my heinous purple and yellow rope?
hey Dale, that's funny. The gear was actually all Henrik's -- trying to avoid those heavy luggage bags these days -- which means you guys share the same taste in ropes. But, the gear is actually part of the story of the climb:

Before the trip, Henrik said, "Don't bring anything other than harnesses, helmets, and shoes. I've got everything else covered."

Well now, when I head up to an alpine route, my rack usually consists of every trick in the modern book that I can afford. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for parsimony and lightness, but for unknown routes like this one, I usually have 1 cam from #3 camelot down, with some of the tiny stuff. Henrik on the other hand, believes a mountain rack consists of 5 old cams and a couple sets of nuts. And, he believes guests should do all the leading (I loved that second part).

Given that the only fixed gear on the route was one rusty piton (ca 1970) at the stemming crux, I was thinking, "ok, if I leave one cam at the belay and I save two cams for the next belay so I have options, then I've got two cams for every 35 meters or so."

With the moderate grade and delightful climbing, the rack was perfect and it was a great re-learning experience for me about the value of relying on passive pro...but I'll be bringing the rack next time.

Ok, it looks like photobucket is back up and running.

another western fjord wall that I only got to admire

one of Kelly's hiking pictures

Samantha playing "What about Bob?" = "I'm sailing!"

and, me, playing gangster before the lightheaded hike down Demonstranten

GOclimb

Trad climber

Boston, MA

Aug 12, 2009 - 12:09pm PT

Fantastic TR and followup, thanks!

GO

cowpoke

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2009 - 01:41pm PT

For anyone interested, here is the link to RockFax publications, from where you can buy the new guidebook to the Lofoten Islands that Mighty Hiker mentions upthread:

http://www.rockfax.com/areas/area.php?id=1007

As the site mentions, the guidebook won the 2008 Mountain Exposition Award at the Banff Mountain Book Festival.

And, (Very Cool Alert) you can download a sample chapter...it looks fabulous.

photo by Chris Craggs (first author) that is included in the sample chapter:

...a quote from the RockFax site:
"The developed climbing has barely scratched the surface of available climbable rock and yet the established routes are already regarded as some of the best multi-pitch granite routes on either side of the Atlantic."

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा, co

Aug 17, 2009 - 02:22pm PT

Beautiful looking countryside over there.
Looks like a great trip with the family!

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Aug 18, 2009 - 11:57am PT

The Svolvaer Gaeta, a Lofoten tower most famous for the leap between its twin summits.

cowpoke

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 12:24pm PT

yes, I heard about jumping the goat (image swiped from flicr):

let's see some more of your Lofoten pics, Chiloe (and who is that in your photo?)...

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Aug 18, 2009 - 12:29pm PT

That's Gary Kofinas in my photo, we worked in a couple of days climbing en route to meetings in Bodö.

Sadly, on that photogenic trip I took very few photos, my camera seeming too heavy to climb with.

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Aug 25, 2009 - 11:09am PT

Couple more shots from the Svolvaer Goat,

Gary Kofinas enjoys the view and contemplates the leap from one of the twin summits --
the sloping right-hand summit in the photos above and below.

Some Norwegian climbers shared this photo of me actually making the leap. Gary is
belaying on the ridge at right.

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Aug 25, 2009 - 11:12am PT

Random Lofoten views:

cowpoke

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 06:03pm PT

nice, Chiloe!!!

that pic of Gary one summit taken from the other is great.

what is that huge chunk of stone in your last pic?

had a chat with Henrik last week concerning a Lofoten trip next summer...could be on tap...

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Aug 25, 2009 - 07:14pm PT

sweet

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Aug 25, 2009 - 08:53pm PT

had a chat with Henrik last week concerning a Lofoten trip next summer...

Very appealing, although it takes a great effort to get there from here.

If I ever go back, here's the rock I must climb. 8 pitches, 5.10, killer approach.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Aug 25, 2009 - 08:58pm PT

I am thinking of a trip to Norway, including Lofoten, next summer.

cowpoke

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 09:18pm PT

Anders, really?!

let's chat about this...we're thinking mid-summer (e.g., end of July), but everything is in planning stages so we could modify plans if it meant we could overlap/meet up with you...maybe even get Larry out of that "great effort" mindset...

cowpoke

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 07:34pm PT

just got the Webster guide in the mail today = yay! front and back covers followed by the first and last paragraphs of the intro.

edit: would still love to see more photos from those who have been hiking and climbing in the area...