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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 10, 2009 - 10:01am PT
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To celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary, Kelly and I gave the family a 2-week trip to Norway. Hosted by our good Norwegian friends, Henrik and Stine (and their daughter, Vilde), we spent the majority of our trip on the water and in the mountains…for the most part, family-friendly adventure hiking and sailing/motor-boating in an amazing land of sea and cliff.
We did enough climbing to help avoid “distracted-daddy syndrome,” but not really enough for the full-value TR.
Yet, with in-print guidebooks hard to come by and details (in English) scarce on the net, I couldn’t help but try to evoke beta, photos, and trip reports.
Some of you ST folks have got the scoop, right?
Where you been?
Lofoten islands anyone?
The (hopefully) evocative stimulus:
We spent our first two days in Oslo. The city has sport-climbing cliffs scattered around the hills above the city, with much of it easily accessible by public transportation.
We had a family day at Hauktjern, a scenic crag set beside a lake. I’m just sharing a couple pictures from the day, primarily because I got embarrassingly shut down on both of my “big” on-sight attempts. The ego-protecting cognitive spin = it was jet lag.
The crew heading for the train in downtown Oslo:
and, Samantha making quick work of a fun little 5.6 hand crack:
We spent the next few days in Henrik’s and Stine’s summer house on the Oslo fjord. Henrik just bought a new motorboat for cruising around the fjord; a highlight was a day’s excursion out to a beautiful little island for a bit of hiking, swimming, and relaxing.
Next up was the Hemsedal valley, about a 3-hour drive northwest of Oslo. The valley is lined with dramatic cliffs and is conveniently located for jaunts out to the western fjords.
Basecamp:
Our best day there was centered on a hike for Kelly and a climb for me.
Kelly, Henrik, and Stine (with Vilde on back) got an early start and hiked Veslehodn mountain in the morning, while I hung out with our girls. Then, the hiking crew met me at the local climbing shop in town at 1pm, from where Henrik and I drove off to climb a route on Skogshoden mountain.
The peaks being close to town (about 20 minute drives to the trailheads) and the late setting sun (approx 9pm) helped us all get our dose of adventure.
I took this picture of Veslehodn at just about the time the hikers were on the summit:
Kelly’s picture of the lake that feeds the waterfall:
The team’s rendezvous point
…the guys in this shop were immensely helpful, spending several beta-giving sessions with me and Henrik as well as printing off more than a dozen pages of handwritten topos and Norwegian web pages with routes and beta...help support ‘em if you are in the area.
Their recommended route was Demonstranten (graded V or V+, depending on topo, which is in the 5.7-8ish YSD range). After my Norwegian sport-climbing spanking, the moderate grade sounded about right, although the twinkling local eyes when describing the route made me wonder.
Here is a view of the mountain and line of the route (in yellow) as well as our topo, a bit worse for wear.
After about 2 hours of hiking and scrambling, we started climbing at 4pm. The first half of the climb heads up easy 5th class slabs and corners, but I thought a line directly along the right ridge looked more fun (the red on the topo). A short 5.8ish hand crack was, indeed, fun; trying to climb around the loose rock, however, was like trying to bass fish between lily pads without catching a snag.
Halfway up the route, we relaxed on a huge grassy ledge and munched on reindeer sausage. Henrik on his way up to the ledge:
The second half of the climb is gorgeous, and now one of my favorite climbs in the grade. You can see most of the route in this picture, starting with an easy offwidth, continuing through exposed face climbing and a section of wild stemming, and finishing up over the steep bulge at the top right of the photo:
Here comes Henrik, after the wild stemming, to join me at the last belay, below the top bulge:
…this belay ledge was a perfectly flat 2 x 2 square of rock that hung out over the entire climb…kinda spooky.
We topped out at about 7:30pm:
Plenty of time to enjoy the view with Cuban cigars Henrik stowed:
(directly across the valley in the second pic is the peak the hikers bagged)
We were back to the cabin about 10pm to have reindeer stew and Danish beers with our beautiful wives.
But, if that isn’t enough stimuli to evoke the desire responses, then I’ll start posting random pics of the fjords.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 10, 2009 - 11:38am PT
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Fantastic! Looks like a really rich trip, with more stories to come. That first shot of you 4
setting off into Oslo is priceless.
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hooblie
climber
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Aug 10, 2009 - 11:38am PT
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if the desired response is a pulse, i still have one. thanks to my agents who have been dipatched across the globe to send back reports like this. don't let this discourage you from posting fjord shots though. love to see those too.
ya, chiloe. that shot got my attention too. kind of reset my trip groove right at the get go
my genetic heritage is more norwegian than anything else, and i feel a little bereft of cues as to what, or how i'm supposed to be to be true to my line. i've done my share of sleeping under bridges and avoiding trouble, but i would be hard pressed to pick my people out of a line up except by excluding the obvious non-contenders
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nita
climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
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Aug 10, 2009 - 11:38am PT
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Cowpoke, incredibly gorgeous looking place, lucky you. What does reindeer stew taste like?...and more pics please.
ps, cool summer house.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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That looks like a fun trip. Nice looking route too!
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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What does reindeer stew taste like
Nita, I was surprised that reindeer didn't taste much like venison or elk. It seems less gamey and more subtle than both = delicious. The stew was, in fact, the least elegant meal our friends Henrik and Stine (and their parents!) cooked for us...I guess reindeer stew in Norway is kinda like meatloaf in the US (i.e., common and not too difficult to make), but it tasted fabulous to me (I like meatloaf too).
We were also served smoked reindeer, a regional fish related to monk fish, wild lamb from the western coast, cod with wild mushrooms (really fancy ones that I can't remember the name of), and a variety of local faves like prawns and waffles with fresh berries (the blueberries and raspberries are everywhere in the mountains). It was amazing.
cool summer house
actually, I think the pic you're referring to is the cabin we rented in Hemsedal valley, but the summer house was sweet too (looking up at the house from their path down to the Oslo fjord):
more pics please
a few western fjord pics:
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 10, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Norway is amazing. I can relate from being Scandinavian too, and from being there 5 years ago.
Flew way north, probably right over your fjord, glued to the window over all those mountains and icecaps. Ended up on a 3-hour ferry ride, crossing the Arctic Circle, to the Lofoten Ishands.
Spent a week there, yes, also with my family. We got in some cool hikes, some of them right past splitter granite, but no climbing. But Oh Boy did I get an eyeful of unclimbed faces. Brought home a few photos.
Nice!
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Aug 10, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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Beautiful!
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
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Oh Boy did I get an eyeful of unclimbed faces
DR, now that is what I'm talking about!
I spent a few hours drooling over some coffee table books (all in Norwegian, of course) of the region you were in...sweeping walls, granite spires, and peaks...crazy-good looking stone.
Did you take any pics of those?
Edit: DR, post those photos, please.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2009 - 09:36am PT
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one of the many walls in Aurlandsfjorden (most not accessible by road...kayak, anyone?):
Ed Webster wrote a guide to Lofoten in 1994 -- Climbing in the Magic Islands -- that was re-printed in hardcover in 2005, but I can't find a copy, whether through international shops (e.g., Piz Buch & Berg) or on-line (e.g., amazon).
Anyone have a copy?
Ideas of how I might get one?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 10:53am PT
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Poke,
Most enjoyable TR! Reindeer is the best meat on the planet
particularly for the anti-cholesterol crowd. I'm surprised Henrik didn't take you to Kolsaas not far from Oslo. I'm also surprised he didn't test your manhood with some gammelost which means 'old cheese'. And when they say something in Norge is old they know from old! It has been known to bring the unsuspecting and weak to their knees. The EU prohibits its export on humanitarian grounds.
Den Gammelgubben
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 11, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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Looks really cool!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Aug 11, 2009 - 01:07pm PT
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Awesome trip, there, Cowpoke.....looks like fun.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 11, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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cowpoke:
Ed Webster wrote a guide to Lofoten in 1994 -- Climbing in the Magic Islands -- that was re-printed
in hardcover in 2005, but I can't find a copy, whether through international shops (e.g., Piz Buch &
Berg) or on-line (e.g., amazon).
I've got a copy, you can check it out next time you drop by. Lofoten is one of the most scenic places
on earth.
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Nohea
Trad climber
Sunny Aiea,Hi
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Aug 11, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
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That is one sweet way to celebrate #20. Congrats and Thanks for posting a great TR!
Aloha,
wil
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Aug 11, 2009 - 09:52pm PT
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Absolutely beautiful; super psyched for you.
Thanks for a great t.r.
Jo
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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Chiloe, I shoulda known!!! that's fabulous...seems we should make a good reason for me to stop by the "library" soon, eh?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 12, 2009 - 12:08am PT
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We're still on the left coast, back in NH next week.
Really like your TR though, is there more?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 12, 2009 - 12:11am PT
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Det gleder meg til å lese på eventyrer og se på bilder om klatring i Norge. Tusen takk!
There is a new English language guidebook out for Lofoten. I haven't seen it yet - http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1412 It appears to be fairly well done.
Climbing in the Magic Islands may be available through www.abebooks.com
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 12, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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hey there cowpoke... say, HAPPY CONGRATS TO YOU BOTH!
say, these pics are some of the most beautiful scenery i have ever scene...
i have only seen such nice stuff as this in the national geographic when article on norway, or land, in similar areas, was done...
i loved the fjords' pics ever since i was a kid...
say, i loved your sentence here:
"The valley is lined with dramatic cliffs and is conveniently located for jaunts out to the western fjords."
oh my... i LOVE dramatic cliffs--- :)
though, i'd not perhaps climb many... but just a few "jaunts" would do me... ;)
very very lovely stuff and a trip shared us, most richly...
yep, i'm for more pics, too... :)
god bless ... and once again
happy anniversary... :)
and many good cheers...
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