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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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About the nut throw on Tangerine.
When Royal attempted to do the first ascent of the TT, it was solo. Vandiver and I helped him hike back down from it when he decided to quit after a couple of days up there. We were watching him. I believe he was the first on it. His big point after he got to the ground was how inventive the earlier pitches were, how he had to do a nut throw. This became well-known for awhile until Charlie bagged the route. RR just didn't have the steam anymore by this point, all those years climbing and several years after the 2nd ascent and solo of the Muir. Jimmy Dunn's Cosmos had not taken place yet, so the 'next step in American Climbing" was to do a first ascent by solo on El Capitan then. Or at least that was how come of us were seeing it. Certainly RR.
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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Killer bivy at 3:40
LOL
Sooooo hardcore
Edit: I spent 10 min trying that #8 hex toss on the Trip to get some old school mojo rolling, then hooked across and got on with my life.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Considering how much the features on the Trip didn't pan out and the extent of drilling that resulted, RR was fortunate to have stopped down low on the route. He likely had a measured number of bolts with him and would have had an epic getting down once he came to grips with the headwall. The bolt ladder on Tis-sa-ack made him howl enough! LOL
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Merci!
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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The rope toss, jammed knot and yard up it are certainly restaged for the camera, but precisely fit Bonatti's original description of the climb in his first book (the version I owned was translated into French, "A Mes Montagnes"). The vivid description of a lightning storm during a pre-attempt bivouac near the base of the pillar is phenomenal, alas mostly omitted from the recent reprint combining both of his first two books. And I wouldn't be surprised if those guys mostly did just yard up the rope from piece to piece. The guides and top Alps climbers of the day were phenomenally fit and strong (still true no doubt).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Bonatti was my hero when I started climbing in the 60's. I'm on the jury of the Piolet D'Or so I'll get to meet him when he gets his very deserved award.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Sure it's staged!
The crack the guy is climbing (and Rebuffat as well on the other tread) is located on a small (c. 30 m high) outcrop below the Cosmique Ridge / Aig. du Midi. It was also used in a popular ad with Jean Marc Boivin in the eighties.
I camped below it in 1986. The flag (an small green blob) marks the position of my tent after a two day storm:
The knot throwing acrobatics is vividly described in Bonattis books. Of how he was stuck below the great overhangs at two third hight. Now - luckily - you pass that overhang by Austrians Crack:
Bonatti Pillar:
Michael
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