Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
Wow! That knot throw was incredible. Wonder if that was more for the movie. Then the hand over hand on the rope!
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
It had to be for the movie. Right? Not even Bonatti could do that, or hand-over-hand up a rope that way.
I know he was in a different league, but...
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
That all looked staged to me, and that business with the tossed cord/monkey paw was one for the ages. Imagine dpoing that all the way up a big wall.
JL
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Why John, we do that all the time, except we have steel grappling hooks these days. ;)
"The latter climb, in 1965, was his last major ascent, as he retired from hard climbing at age 35 and moved on to travel, photography, and other pursuits."
Good grief. I was just getting warmed up at 35.
Wow - no gloves! Solo belaying over just a few pieces, then backcleaning. I love how he clips his aider into the pin he just placed way above his head, then clips the rope in too before testing it - yikes! No daisies on the aider, no funkness whacking out the pins. That guy must have had very "good" hands to not drop stuff. Well, then again, it says he brought 80 pitons....
|
|
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
4th pitch of the Tangerine Trip....a Charlie Porter nut throw.
Maybe he got it from Bonatti?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
I am absolutely blown away by the film footage on this link.
|
|
Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
|
while this one instance of nut throwing was obviously staged, i'm not so sure he would have not done it on the first ascent. i remember reading some pretty wild stuff in his book, i'll have to read it again and see if he mentions anything like this.
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
That's adventure climbing at it's best.
The fact that after his solo winter ascent on the N face of the Matterhorn was his last........I'll bet he made a few deals with god( or the devil) to" get my ass off this thing alive and I'll Quit".
How many times has everyone of us said something to that affect and reneged to climb another day?
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
How many times has everyone of us said something to that affect and reneged to climb another day?
Just bought a new rope.
I'don't think I could get lunch and water in that mini "haul sack"
|
|
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
No doubt a lot of that footage was staged, including the knot throw.
However I don't doubt at all that it could be used in a real situation.
Ron Kauk, Dale Bard and I had to do the same thing to do the third ascent of
Charlie Porter's "Tangerine Trip".
There were no "topos" at the time (Porter refused the idea of a route "map"), but we knew there was a "weird" section on the 4th (?) pitch where you had to throw a nut into a slotted crack above the last feasible placement. Sure enough we got there and had to futz around with this "nut throw" for an half an hour or so. We tied a hex to the end of an aider and kept trying to "bullwhip" it into an obvious slot above. We finally did it.
Very interesting, very unique and very obvious if you're trying to eliminate extra bolts and effort. Porter was a genius. I never knew this about Bonatti but I'm sure he did this on some occasions - it's only natural.
It wouldn't surprise me if Porter knew about this "Bonatti technique".
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
With respect to throwing the rope above you in order to advance your climb, I am reminded of a Poway Mountaineers first ascent near Lone Pine Peak (Olancha), in which we lassooed a small tree a few tens of feet above the leader in order to link up two, discontinuous crack systems.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
I have an old Trip topo that describes a #7 or #8 "hex throw".
Was it Mummery who used his ice axe jammed in a crack? Or was that Whymper? I was thinking "Mummery Crack" on the Grépon but I think he free climbed it. So who was the dude who climbed his jammed piolet?
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
|
I thought it was the Gordian Knot. I'm not dissing Da Man but it was clearly staged. No matter, way cool.
His Beckeyness was King of the Lasso on a number of climbs in the Enchantments and elsewhere if memory serves (which it does not so well any more).
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
So that's how they get the rope up there!
|
|
Dirka
Trad climber
SF
|
|
It is interesting... the monkey fist toss.
Lost arrow spire was first surmounted via the ol' lasso, as well as halfdome's cable route (He stood on pegs and tossed cord on up.), as well as many of the spires at the Pinns. Sun Ribbon arte.
For what that's worth.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Excellent post and footage of the great alpinist.
The Trip nut throw was a #7 hex when RR originally worked it out. He was attempting to solo it as his last hurrah! A old style #8 Stopper sideways would also do the job.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
My greatest clip with a Bonatti was that old fixed pin on Fat City in the Gunks!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
That was FECKIN" Bitchin"!!!!
I'll get my oldest son to translate that for me..
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!