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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Mar 28, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
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I guess I should have kept notes. Probably a couple dozen, mostly in obscure areas and not noteworty. Most of them I don't even recall what I called them.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 28, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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C2F?
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Mar 28, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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Goes clean at C2 if fixed gear is still in place. It's a supertopo-ism.
Brutus
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 28, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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check
I'm gonna call that cobbler in boulder, I want a rifle scum pad?
Do they come in sizes?
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Mar 28, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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Yup. I take a large, I think Em's are medium.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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Yeah, Todd - we had a great time that day! Thanks for the invite!
My meager list:
Smith Rock:
Snuffy Smith - 5.9
No Golf Shoes - 5.11b (2p)
The John Galt Line - 5.11a
Lion Zion - 5.10c
Hobbit's Pockets - 5.10c
Equineimity - 5.10c
Tuff It Out - 5.10a
Schleppin' For Hollywood - 5.11d
North Cascades:
The Devil's Club - 5.11b R/X (Grade V, 24p)
Plan 9 From Outer Space - 5.10c (Grade IV, 16p)
Der Diehedral - 5.10c (6p var)
Nason Ridge, Washington:
Gunstone - 5.11c
Roofus - 5.11d
Airborn Ranger - 5.11c
6 others I can't remember the names of...
Arizona:
BP Cuff - 5.11b
Cool Reception - 5.10b
Scrubs - 5.11b
Brain Salad Surgery - 5.11c
Melonoma - 5.11d
No Appointment necessary - 5.11d
The Short Assistant - 5.11c
Free Refills - 5.10b
Timed Release - 5.10d
Pharm Boy - 5.11a
Herbal Remedies - 5.11c
Good n Plenty - 5.11d
Sundogs - 5.11c
Bluto Tastes An Olive - 5.9+
Muppets In Space - 5.10c
Improbability Drive - 5.11c
Bouldering:
Various boulder problems in the campground area of Squamish
Roadside Arete, Leavenworth WA - V3
The Clamshell, Guemes Island WA - V2
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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See, I didn't have to list any--Todd did 'em all!
Wow, what an amazing list. I could read that thing for days!
You da man, Toddmeister!
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ec
climber
ca
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Mar 29, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Todd, your killing us here!
Say! How about quality vs quantity?
White Punks on Dope, Voodoo Dome, The Needles, III 5.8
Voodoo Chil, Voodoo Dome, The Needles, III 5.9
Crossbones, Voodoo Dome, The Needles, III 5.10
The Romantic Warrior, Warlock Needle, The Needles, IV 5.12b or 5.10 A4
(w/orig. 4th pitch)
Crystal Bonsai, Bubbs Creek Wall, KCNP, V-VI 5.11 A3
Archangel, Cherubim Dome, SNP, VI 5.10 A0
Just a Rock in the Park, Angel Wings, SNP, V-VI 5.10 A3
In the Niche of Time, Tehipite Dome, KCNP, VI 5.10 A3+
Bigger than Life, Mega Dome, Lamont Pinnacles, III 5.10+
Digitally Remastered, Mega Dome, Lamont Pinnacles, II 5.11
'just a few...
 ec
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Mar 29, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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I've done a few, some better than others.
While the reward in doing an FA is one thing, the real joy comes in seeing others enjoying the routes.
I'd like to take this chance to thank all of those who FA'd the many routes I've enjoyed over the years. Without the gang of you there would be a lot less fun in my world...
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ec
climber
ca
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Mar 29, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
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"No Bolt, no route. Isn't that the rule? Plenty of guys assume that IS the rule." - Rjx
'Hadn't heard of that...I suppose I subscribed to part of it as on several routes in Domeland Wilderness that remained unreported, then showed-up as new routes a decade later (to my entertainment)...but it still was a route we did...
ec
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 29, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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If it looks like a new route, walks like a new route, and quacks like a new route....it probably is a new route......bolt or no bolt.....(but you never know, do you?)....
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Mar 30, 2009 - 02:51am PT
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Castle Rock Spire: Cinco de Mayo V 5.10 A3
Brutus sent me a topo of this route. They called an expando aid pitch, "The Piñata". Pretty good visualization, on that one.
My few FAs are on Scott Rock, across from the High School in Cambria. I'm not sure if you can still climb there. Lawyers being what they are these days, the ranchers most likely don't want trouble. If they do, High School Hooker is A2/A3 hooks up the smooth face on the right. The other ones aren't worth mentioning.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Mar 30, 2009 - 03:10am PT
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That is not a list Gordon.
It's a book!
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Mar 30, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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I'm not in the same league as many here on the taco, with only a few FA's ( mostly small penis routes in the gorge and rock creek)but my fav is the north buttress of Mt. Dade, a sweet high country route also did a line on russell years ago that we thought was a FA but were informed (heckled) by Bartlett in the AAJ that it probably wasn't, it was a obscure dihedral system on the main south-east face, who knows? it was fun thats all that matters eh! Did a cool dike/flake route in the stronghold, Magnus Coloradas anyone ever climb it?
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Mar 30, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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ok Mr. Ayers, I KNOW you are lurking, come on Roy, give us a glimse into All the routes you've done. It's the GLORY Roy, not the MAGESTY (spelling? sorry mind rot). Back when the Sheepshead was being developed, did we do any FA's? All I remember is alot of climbing, alot of dope smoking, and alot of good times!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 30, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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One thing I wish is that I had kept better diaries climbing. Here are some worth mentioning that I can find or remember…
Joshua Tree:
Seizure .12c, with Charlie Crist 1988
Hang ‘em High 12b, with McCollum and Laeger 1990
No Rest for the Wicked .11d - On Hell Rock with Jan McCollum and Herb Laeger, 5/90
The Route of All Evil .12a - n Hell Rock with Jan McCollum and Herb Laeger, 5/90
Dyno-Soar .12a ffa 1992. (Todd Swain was kind enough to encourage me to free his aid pitch.)
5150 .10b, with Brian Jonas, John Henderson, Karen Tracy and Herb Laeger app. 93
Up in Rattlesnake Canyon is an area we called Indian Country:
(These routes are not in any current guide, but can be found on Mtn Project and Summitpost. Vern Stiefel,
Dave Evans, Bob Passerini, Tom Murphy and Andrew Burch added more new ones there in 03 too.)
A thrilling memory as Vern Stiefel bags the on-sight flash on Last of the Gohegans in fall 2003. Mike Morely belaying, photo by Andrew Burch.
The Last of the Gohegans .11d, with Ken Gohegan 1992
A Good Day to Die .11bx, with Guy Keesee 1992
Squaws in Heat .9, with Vern Stiefel, Bob Passerini 2003
Welcome to Indian Country .9, with Jan McCollum 1992
Trail of Tears .11aR with Jan 1992
Little Big Horn .12a, with Laeger, 1992
Kings Canyon, The Gorge of Despair:
From Afar .11c, with Guy Keesee July 1992. On the South Face of The Cobra
Despairadoes .12a, with Keesee and Chelsea Griffie July 1996. On the East Face of The Silver Turret
Courtright Reservoir:
Voyager Rock:
Doughballs on a Rampage .11a/A2, with Charlie Crist & Brent Ingram 8/88
Seamstress .12b, with Julie Lazar 9/88
By Jupiter, There are Rings Around Uranus .11d, with Herb Laeger 8/89
Eve Of Destruction .10d, with Eve & Herb Laeger 7/90
Cast of Characters .11c, with everyone imaginable 7/90
The Gold Standard .12c with Jan McCollum, Keesee 9/90
Dusy Dome:
Face of a Blue Eyed Dog .12a/b with Laeger & Ingram
Dome Rock:
About Face .12b with Jan McCollum an Laeger 1987
(This pitch was originally climbed by Mike Waugh with almost no pro, and he wandered over right to finish at
Saucer Full of Secrets. No one else would lead it, and with Mikes ok, we went and climbed up through the same lower
Crux and finished straight up the sustained water streak to a new anchor.)
Save The Wails .12a, with Laeger (first route right from Carsonoma)
I did some routes in The Needles with Laeger but they were really his lines.
Church Dome:
Pumping The Nuns .11b/c, with Guy Keesee 7/94 (S Face of The Convent in The Valley of Death)
X-communication .10a/b, with Guy Keesee 7/06 (this and another we did are in a nice shady slot right of the Taj Majal)
Kern Canyon:
Rincon…. (shhhhhh…) I will just say there has been a bunch of good stuff going on up there even recently. Maybe Rob will post up.
Rob climbing Wake Up Call, The Rincon.
I left off some good ones because access got dicey or they are juss’ plain secret. Catch me by the campfire… :-)
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Chinchen
climber
Living on the road
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Apr 26, 2009 - 12:33am PT
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Eric! I was there for Shleppin' for Hollywood and at least on other, I cant remember the other one I helped you put up..? Man I miss climbing with you! Still at it I see!
Jason Chinchen
PM me bro!
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Evel
Trad climber
Rocky mountains
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Apr 26, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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three that come to mind right away: The Nothing Atolls (homage to the Bird, and a blank slab..) Bellefonte Quarry, PA : Ceasars Palace A4+, Suck Creek canyon, and again at the Quarry, the famous Manufractured 5.11. A few others, But these stand out.
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hooblie
climber
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Apr 26, 2009 - 02:07am PT
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thanks for the invitation. awfully proud of a few plums in ynp, but in glen aulen, which at 50 minutes from pavement shorting the cut, is suspended between the meadows, and the grand canyon of the tuolomne. GLOBAL EMBRACE, 11c, on pluto dome. renamed in the literature as primate crossing, and described by chicken skinner as one of the best cracks in yosemite, bad ass by another. best approach to it is on the slab. expect real bolts added to weeping moon, 10.a x. i don't believe in the x'ing the future just because i didn't stop and drill one day.
then there's primate crossing, above california falls, on wildcat point at the head of the grand canyon of the tuolomne. another plum, at 5.12 A1, i freed the aid moves, but not on lead placing pro. it awaits your attention after 22 years. crux is a longish, steeply rising, finger tip traverse, sharp edge, blindly slotted, drop in knife blade crack on vertical smears above a straight in, straight up, tips section. it challenged me to my trad core. come on out and name it what you will. don't leave it to a third party, son of a local comedian with a penchant for reporting to rename this stuff. trip report and photo shoot of this three pitch 'should be classic,' pending, but don't hold your breath. maybe by autumn. looking for a capable, female?, foto subject. or steal it away. lest i sport bolt it....that should stir the pot. happy earth day
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Apr 26, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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How 'bout one on a mountain that basically doesn't exist anymore? Would that be anti-posterity, posterity-proof, or just a figment to cling to as the sun sets?
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