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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Dec 20, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Went from a swami to a white Whillans. My balls still hurt just thinkin' of that middle strap coming tight doing the major squeeze on one or the other!!!! Break yer back with a swami, or bust yer balls in a Whillans....oh dem were the days!. Still have mine tucked away with my Forrest harness that had a death buckle.
Peace
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Dec 20, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Here's a shot from '74 or so. Check it out!
Strap on Chouinard Crampons, Wool knickers, Whillians Harnes, Russ Anderson figure 8, Chouinard Tule Pack, Joe Brown Helmet, Chounard wood shafted Piolet, Chouniard Super Rope( kinda hard to tell)Super Guide Boots. Starting the U-Notch, North Palisade, Sierra. Sorry about the poor scan. The slide is long since gone and all I have is a bad photo.
Sumitted for your amusement.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 20, 2008 - 11:16am PT
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First harness I ever wore, thinking it must be an improvement over a swami. It wasn't. After my first fall, I thought: "You know, someday I might like to have kids." And it was back to the swami.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2008 - 11:22am PT
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Sorry, family dinner last night.
"Before I get really ornery" - And how, pray tell, will we tell that the birthday gal has so metamorphosed? :-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 20, 2008 - 11:51am PT
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Whillans harnesses were great... Well compared to no harness. No package issues at all. My only problem was that when I hung for very long one of the leg loops would dig into a nerve on my inner thigh.
This is a shot that will eventually get posted in Anders' "Squamish in the Dark Ages" thread. Whillans harness, with me in it, on the Tantalus roof
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 20, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
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I was top roping with Clance a couple of weeks ago and he STILL uses one.
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OTCGENO
Trad climber
CALIFORNIA
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Dec 20, 2008 - 05:11pm PT
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NOPE, USED A 2" SWAMI FOR YEARS UNTIL CHOUINARD CAME OUT WITH A HARNESS (JUNK). EVENTUALLY I BOUGHT A ALPINE BOD HARNESS (BETTER, BUT STILL CRAP). NOW I USE A PETZL GURU (COMFORT AT LAST!).
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Dec 20, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
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I bought one as a 16 year old in 74' for my first wall. What a mistake. On my first aid lead ever, an over driven pin in an expanding flake spit me out. Ended up upside down staring at the valley floor. Never used it again after that climb.
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Dec 20, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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Lars are you serious? You still use one?
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 20, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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Absolutely not!! I gave up my Whillans 25 years ago. It would take someone as demented as Chuck Clance to STILL use one.
Cheers
lars
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Dec 20, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
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Ahh I reread that...my bad. How is Chuck these days? Last I saw him his ankle was pretty f*#ked up.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Dec 20, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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Don’t know what those pictures are of but this is a Whilans harness... On a pair of short shorts
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 21, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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Maldaly, if you were one of my dirtbag climbing partners and made this statement about your kids, I'd be likely to ask, sure you're the dad?
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Dec 21, 2008 - 10:28am PT
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I can't say I agree with Fattrad on much, but he is right on this point. Skipped the Whillans and went with the Forrest. Still have parts of it around here somewhere.
I remember back in the day stopping at Bill Forrest's shop in Denver. Saw it from the freeway (Big logo painted on a building) and stopped in. I really liked his equipment. In some ways I think he was ahead of his time. Good quality for the day and robust.
Anyone still have a forest hammock?
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 21, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
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The summer camp I learned to climb at (1987?) had a few, so I hung in one enough to really appreciate the legloops in my first harness...
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Dec 21, 2008 - 02:35pm PT
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Whillans harness:
Kullaberg, Sweden, 1985. Falling
Kullaberg, Sweden, 1985. Me
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 21, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
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Chris2-
Chuck Clance is on his way to Josh as we speak. I spoke to him yesterday and upon regarding the weather forecast his reply was, " damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead".
Yes his ankles are FUBAR, but then so are mine. Chuck, to his full credit, climbs better than he can walk on level ground.
Best,
lars
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 22, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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Who hasn't? (noobs excluded..)
MP on one of countless teenage waste missions...1975.
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pittolo
Mountain climber
italy, turin
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May 13, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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Hi!!!
I'm an italian climber, and i like this kind of harness.
In Italy we has a Zanella that produced this harness but today is closed....
Do you know if it's possible to buy this kind of harness today?
thank you and excuse me for my bad english
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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May 13, 2009 - 11:25am PT
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It sure seemed better than a swami
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