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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 13, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
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yeah, scooter, I have climbed at Warsaw it is The Quarry that I have never been to. Now that I hear it has a couple good aid routes I will be there. Where at in KC? My parents are in Liberty now. I am at college in Rolla so it is only like only anouther 45 min to HCR and Sams Throne than to warsaw and trappers. But usually I can arrange it on the way to see my parents...
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 14, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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Arkansas is a choss pile.
Stay away.
Top Ten!? How is that even possible, warren?
Red Rock>
Batso's Revenge
Thorazine
HCR>
Mountain Meadow Massacre
Sam's Area>
Windy Armbuster
Euthanasia
Supernatural
Coup de Tat
Mandolin Gypsy
Instant Karma + Reintarnation finish
Harvester of Sorrows
Bonus faves:
Haw Creek>
Team Black
For Whom the Bell Tolls
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 14, 2008 - 12:45am PT
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kerry-
any hint to what that roof crack pic is of? Looks interesting...
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2008 - 02:04am PT
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Cout de tat, Yes, yes, I forgot. Collins you are correct, it is Warren. And its you as in www.jercollins.com the world famous artist and Arkansas TOUGH GUY! (As well as a NID tough guy and Astroman tough guy) I like your list! Very good hard routes.
MOs-I lived in most of the cities in Johnson County, KCMO and Lawrence KS.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2008 - 02:51am PT
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2008 - 03:04am PT
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MOsucks-
Here is a little MO. climbing.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 14, 2008 - 09:16am PT
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Phantom,
That roof crack is at the goat farm, AKA Old Man Whyle's place. Private property but the landowners have always been very good about access.
"Downward Bound" or "Outward Bound" depending on who you ask. FA by Mark Wilford if my memory is correct. Pretty nice crack. Maybe 30' of dead horizontal hands and fist with a pod in the middle you can crimp rails in. It doesn't see much action, a friend of mine got on it a few years back and said the thing was lined with a thick layer of goat shite(the crack goes all the way through the roof of a cave, goats mill about above it).
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Dec 14, 2008 - 09:59am PT
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Sam's Throne is a hot spot for those climbers in Memphis. And just so you know, it's trad only. Any sport routes will be chopped by the locals. Bolts are ok if put in ground up. (not too many of those) lots of solid, bolted anchors though. All single pitch but some fine singles.
My first trad lead was on "poison ivy", a great 5.6 diehedral/corner. Later, my first trad fall, also at Sam's.
GREAT camping, no facilities but great spots a short hike to the rock. Far enough away from town to avoid the beer drinkers and rock throwers from the trailer park. (mostly)
Wife broke her ankle there. Remember Tim Greene? He tried to be the hero there. Crimpergirl kinda took that spot though.
It's a fun place with lot's of routes, easy to very, very hard. The top of Sam's has a million dollar view.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 14, 2008 - 10:19am PT
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A bit of (mostly) untouched limestone.
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Dec 14, 2008 - 10:22am PT
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And that limestone is hard, very hard and stable. Almost like valley granite. (crystal grains vs. sand particles) Similar texture and support. Place it well and you can trust it. I know.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 14, 2008 - 10:24am PT
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really captures the moment, eh
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 14, 2008 - 10:28am PT
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More photos. Rainy here in Illinois and I'm bored.
First 5.13 at the dude ranch, Cradle of the Deep
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 14, 2008 - 10:30am PT
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The infamous witness the fitness cave, pre-Sharma
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 14, 2008 - 10:35am PT
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More bouldering. This used to be a thin hands crack. I took some friends to it to sandbag 'em, and it was perfect hands - the split boulder is slowly falling in half. Oughtta be OW in a couple of years.
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 14, 2008 - 10:59am PT
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scooter where are the first two, those the Quarry, and that roof seam you was talkin of?
Nice photos, guys, makes me want to say screw finals and spend all next week down there, but doc said no more climbing :(.
P.S. The titantic boulder is very photogenic!!
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 14, 2008 - 11:10am PT
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noshoes- thanks for the beta. I am always on the hunt for the next best roof crack down south. That BP one looks sweet... maybe I should hit it before it's a chimney.
scooterjive- thanks for these photos. Giving me lotsa laughs, and memories on a cool sunday morning. You need to come down with me sometime... show you the new, fun things in the Sams area.
p.s. I will be calling you today or tomorrow...about something entirely unrelated
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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Phantom,
give me a ring I would like to shoot the shizzle. Do you still have my new number?
MOs-
The first 2 B&W images are the Quarry. The water ones, Lake of the Ozarks and the slackline Warsaw.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2008 - 12:51pm PT
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Khanom-
Any luck climbing or how 'bout a routes and weather report if so.
P
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 15, 2008 - 01:09pm PT
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skipt may particularly enjoy his climbing trips to Arkansas, as he can combine them with a pilgrimage to the Clinton presidential library, and other "must do" activities.
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 15, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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Khanom-
yeah the weather isn't looking good up here in MO more snow and ice on the way. So far we have 3/8 inch of solid ice and sleet then a dusting of snow. It is 12 degrees out there now and windchill of 1 degree, suppose to get up to 18 though.
I am getting the bobsled out! well actually just an old metal runner sled.
At least it isn't the 3/4 inch of ice we had a week ago.
This is midwest dry tooling weather, find a road cut and go at it, just please don't destroy out precious climbing though, why I always use roadcuts...
good luck and don't get frost bitten fingers!
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