Second Ascent of Nataraj on North Dome TR IV 10b A0 13 pitch

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

nutjob

Stoked OW climber

San Jose, CA

Oct 20, 2008 - 11:19pm PT

Le_bruce, we have a new mission whenever we get back out there...

Doug Hemken

climber

Madison, WI

Oct 21, 2008 - 10:09am PT

Is there another project to the left of Nataraj? A couple of years ago, the first time I did CJ Direct, we had wandered over in this direction and spotted a couple of bolts going up the slab (Baba's approach makes more sense to me than Dingle's). Now I wonder if that was Nataraj-in-the-works ... but I don't remember the low roof.

Just wondering.

Zander

Trad climber

Berkeley

Oct 21, 2008 - 10:35am PT

Looks like fun!

dickcilley

Social climber

A cova Dos Nenos

Oct 21, 2008 - 11:14am PT

Whats it looklike for freeclimbing?

cragnshag

Social climber

san joser

Oct 21, 2008 - 12:34pm PT

The AO bolt ladder on the 1st pitch is about 40' long.
15' of the ladder is way steep and holdless (spiderman).
25' of the ladder might go free at 5.11+ or harder.
I aided all 40'.

The AO bolt ladder on the 3rd pitch is about 50' long.
I freed about 30' of it to about 5.10d and aided the other 20'.
There is mandatory 5.10a at the start and finish of the ladder.
The 20' I aided would likely go free at 5.11+

Everything else goes free at 10a or easier with the exception of the 10b knob mantle on the 5th pitch. The character of the entire climb is that there is a lot of 5.7 and 5.8 climbing with a few cruxy sections here and there to spice things up.

Crimpergirl

Social climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Oct 21, 2008 - 01:01pm PT

Very cool stuff!

hungry man

Trad climber

around

Oct 21, 2008 - 04:00pm PT

Beautiful trip report, Baba. looks like a must-do.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland: what's not to love?

Oct 21, 2008 - 04:07pm PT

Sounds good, Scott. I climbed for a few weeks with Mzzystr during the summer he helped put this up - what's up Michigan Chris. Sounded like a lot of hot and sweaty toil putting those bolts in.

Looks like a great line.

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Oct 21, 2008 - 06:07pm PT

Anyone ever done Dakshina ? When I went up there for Crest Jewel (direct) I looked at it and thought it looked like a really spectacular climb. That roof is pretty amazing, dont have the topo at the moment, but isnt the climbing after the roof traverse a bit runout and scary looking?

Think its possible to do Dakshina under the roof then get onto this new route?

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 06:33pm PT

Dakshina and Nataraj share a bit of stone after the roof, so yes, you could jump onto Dakshina.

Not sure that would be a good idea but I haven't looked at the Dakshina topo to see where the devils are

Peace

Karl

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 21, 2008 - 06:56pm PT

Great stuff, Karl, Bob, Chris and Dan!

Here's my best guess on a combined overlay (note: I haven't done Crest Jewel in awhile, and I haven't done Crest Jewel Direct, Nataraj or Dakshina).

dogtown

climber

Where I once was,I think?

Oct 21, 2008 - 09:20pm PT

Thanks for posting up ! looks like a nice line.

Mazzystr

Gym climber

Homeless...

Oct 22, 2008 - 09:37am PT

Wow...how the memory changes things over time! I consulted the topo I drew up in my journal. We indeed did only bolt 11 pitches that summer! Not sure where I got 14 from! lol! My work has a scanner. I will post pictures when I get some breathing time.

Dan called me up last night with an update. It was great hearing from him again.

He said he changed P4. Originally, when you are standing on the pedestal above the 4" offwidth he had the line going straight up. It was required to lasso a thin sloppy piece of diorite with a sling, crank up, lasso another piece of diorite with your other hand. At this point you would be about 10ft off the pedestal, you could stand on the first diorite and you can clip the first bolt. My mouth hit the ground watching this lead. It was the most amazing piece of climbing I've seen. I thought about mentioning it in one of the Amazing Climbs Witnessed thread. So now P4 swings left onto the face then up and right and hooks back up with the original line and avoids that nasty slinging business. The pitch sounds like it has been... defanged, heh!

I called P5 the Brain pitch because there was a dike that you followed to the right 50-60ft and you end up pulling a steep section using this bulbous thing that was about 3ft around. It had all sort of veiny intrusions on it so it reminded me of a big brain.

I'm still amazed that we are considering P3 and the higher pitches could go completely free. Maaan...There are some awesome climbers out there.

/Chris

Larry

Trad climber

Bisbee

Oct 22, 2008 - 12:56pm PT

hoi,

Rumor is that Dakshina has only seen two ascents. One guy was on both first and second ascents, and he's gone from this world now.

Does anyone know where "Mass Assault" goes? Or how to contact member(s) of the FA party?

Ken Boche, Dennis Hennek, Judy Sterner, Russ McLean, Sibylle Hechtel, Tim Auger, Mike Farrell

I met a few of these folks at one of Millis's gatherings once. Some may be on the East Side?

sibylle

Trad climber

On the road again!

Oct 23, 2008 - 06:47pm PT

I was on Mass Assault, but don't remember where it goes ... I think that Mighty Hiker has contact info for Tim Auger. I last saw Ken Boche at the Camp 4 dedication in 1999 (I think) - he lived in Hawaii then. Judy moved to Calgary, Canada and Tim may be in touch with her - or Anne Marie.

Old&InTheWay

Trad climber

Oct 23, 2008 - 09:48pm PT

Climbing related bump

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2009 - 12:30am PT

Spring Doable again related bump

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

May 12, 2009 - 12:39am PT

If it is still of interest, I have contact information for Tim Auger. Dennis Hennek very occasionally posts to SuperTopo, possibly encouraged by Don Lauria.