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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 17, 2008 - 12:47am PT
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sweet Karl, thanks for posting this
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 17, 2008 - 01:16am PT
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What's a Nataraj?
(And don't say "Jaratan" spelt backward.)
Bump.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Oct 17, 2008 - 01:22am PT
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Very nice work. Proud.
This, if anything should get Doug's elbows down
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 17, 2008 - 11:52am PT
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Awesome looking route. Thanks for posting it up.
I still have yet to do anything up on ND.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Oct 17, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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Good job Karl, you SlabMonster! :-)
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nature
climber
Santa Fe, NM
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Oct 17, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
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Nataraj or Nataraja is Dancing Shiva.
Shiva sat on the Mountain top in north India for a while. Then for some reason decided to descend to the graveyard in Southern India where he danced the Ananda Tandava (which brought the universe into existence). To look at Lord Shiva in the form of Nataraja is difficult. He's covered with cremation ash, has long natty dreads - but the women think he's way haught.
Edit: oh yeah, very nice looking line and a very nice send. WOW!
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nature
climber
Santa Fe, NM
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Oct 17, 2008 - 04:00pm PT
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bump. because it's a climbing thread.... not it belongs on the Taco or anything...
I'm just sayin'...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
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Here's the line
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Oct 17, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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Thanks for the trip report karl. Beautiful shots. I'm glad you had a good climb with the Lumox.
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Mazzystr
Gym climber
Homeless...
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Oct 18, 2008 - 02:45pm PT
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i can't beleive this route is finished?!?!? i have just emailed Dan for confirmation. if so, i'm sad to not be a part of the final push. i remember kind of going crazy on long 12hr days of hammering and praying to god ascending 9.4mm ropes over that headwall.
who got p5? the brain pitch? p2 edging and p5 brain pitch were my favourite pitches. the p3 lasso is insane scary for me. i won't climb the route again because of that pitch. my mouth dropped seeing Dan do the two lassos. i can't beleive p4 went clean. i can't beleive p12-14 went clean. i have 11 pitches in my topo (THE ORIGINAL TOPO!). The thread claims 13 pitches. We were at least 300ft from the top last I heard and Dan put up two more pitches in Sept. He didn't mention that he COMPLETED the route, lol!
Standy by for a picassa link to pictures of this route in the making
Thanks,
/Chris
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Mazzystr
Gym climber
Homeless...
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Oct 18, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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I'm also surprised by the name. I thought we agreed on The Infinite Lotus...
Thats ok though. I like the new name.
/Chris C
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Mazzystr
Gym climber
Homeless...
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Oct 18, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Karl,
all those pitches went at 5.10?
what about the p2/p3 pitch that crosses with Dakshina? thats 5.10 climbing too?
I can't believe this! I'm distraught!
/Chris C
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2008 - 10:53pm PT
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Chris's questions in ""
"who got p5 the brain pitch??"
I got all the odd pitches. Pitch 5 had two crux sections (reasonable to good pro in both section) The second crux of Pitch 5 is where I went too far left and had to pray my way back right. Best to stay low.
" the p3 lasso is insane scary for me. i won't climb the route again because of that pitch. my mouth dropped seeing Dan do the two lassos."
Pitch 3 has a lot of A0 now. There's nothing too scary about it except for a little potential sliding on the 5.10 upper part. Don't know anything about Lasso. See the revised topo on my site.
"i can't beleive p4 went clean."
Pitch 4, just left of where Dakshina comes in, has a couple tricky moves, but it's all there, check the topo.
"i can't beleive p12-14 went clean."
Obviously, there is no pitch 14 (actually i led past the end of 13 with a 70 meter rope so we wouldn't have a 4/Easy 5th class finish) The final two hard pitches were continuous but all there and pro was good. The last pitch goes up a gritty corner with a good crack. Easy.
"i have 11 pitches in my topo (THE ORIGINAL TOPO!). The thread claims 13 pitches. We were at least 300ft from the top last I heard and Dan put up two more pitches in Sept. He didn't mention that he COMPLETED the route, lol!"
After the two last hard pitches, the final pitch only had two bolts to drill for whomever finished up.
Hope this helps
peace
Karl
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2008 - 02:43pm PT
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Nataraj in black compared to Crest Jewel in red
Peace
Karl
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Oct 20, 2008 - 04:23pm PT
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Hey Chris,
I'm the guy that helped Dan finish the route. I think the reason why it's 13 pitches and not 11 is that Dan and I decided to break up the old pitch 3 into 2 pitches. After the AO and 10a freeclimbing there was too much drag so we made a natural belay in the crack. This made the subsequent free climbing much more enjoyable. Also, the free climbing here avoids the "lasso."
The new pitch five (the one that is shared with Dakshina)avoids the 5.11 with an improbable 10b mantle onto a knob just left of the belay. Once you are standing on this knob, the rest of the pitch is cruiser.
Dan was supposed to send me some pictures of all this.... Dan you out there?
A very enjoyable route!!
Bob
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Oct 20, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
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I'm glad to hear that Dan and friends' efforts produced a good route.
It might be worth noting that the part of Dakshina above the big overhang has had its bolts upgraded.
Most, if not all, of the hangers on Dakshina are colored. If you think you're on Crest Jewel or Nataraj and are clipping variously colored hangers, you may have wandered onto Dakshina.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 20, 2008 - 10:29pm PT
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Bad Azz Karl!!!
Really cool photos, great story...
P.S. You're not that old! Heck, if you can make it to the base of that thing.. you're doin way better than me!
Thanks for the post, and it was good to see you at the Art Auction.
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halfhitch
Trad climber
Steamboat Springs, CO
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Oct 20, 2008 - 10:41pm PT
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NICE Karl, The pictures had me back a mid 80's with a summer's sweltering early ascent of crest jewel. Say hello to Mark for me - I'm doin fine these days out here in Steamboat - nice place for a retired guide. cheers, Wil
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