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HJ
climber
Bozeman, Montana
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Aug 28, 2008 - 12:47am PT
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I have pretty serious mortons toe, and fungus on the left, but not the right foot. Not sure what this means politically, but I suspect both parties could benifit from the dremel tool. I do have good luck with Mythos.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Aug 28, 2008 - 12:54am PT
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Acopa, Aztecs...
Aces "use" to be my favorite shoes.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Aug 28, 2008 - 12:57am PT
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Hey...
Guys! If you have fungus on your feet, please don't share... Get something to kill the stuff, will ya?
Why is it that all the women I know have nice feet and... "Half you guys' feet look like they are made up for some horror show?" Geepers... Men!
AF
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2008 - 12:58am PT
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"Emery boards, you know, are actually made for the purpose of sanding nails."
But real men apparently use a dremel tool (whatever that is) or a chainsaw.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Aug 28, 2008 - 01:03am PT
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You really don't know what a dremel tool is?
Say it ain't so!
They are pretty good for home dentistry too, or so I hear, LOL.
It would take a week to sand down a thick-with-fungus big toe nail with an emery board.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Idaho Falls
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Aug 28, 2008 - 07:36am PT
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What was/is the model name of the Acopa shoe with vivid purple leather? They aren't presently shown on the Acopa website.
A friend sold me a new pair but she didn't know the model name. These have more flex than my Aztecs. They're not as snug in the heel either.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Aug 28, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
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Vivid Purple?
Is that a new shoe? Did you just get that model at the recent trade show?
Or are you thinking of the Merlin?
The Merlin is a more softer and more flexible shoe that can really jam into some spots.
Sometimes they also make test models in other colors...
Hmmm....
Anyway, sending my heart out to the Lisa our Acopa Goddess who I will always love.
Now back to teaching...
Smiles,
Anastasia
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Jennie
Trad climber
Idaho Falls
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Aug 28, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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Anastasia, I'd never seen these on the Acopa website. I suppose they could be a test shoe but they are in new condition. Doesn't look like the sole has been on either rock or plastic.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 28, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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I saw what looked like a marketing pic of these on Yahoo Images a long time ago. Don't remember what they were called, but they were not on the Acopa site at the time either. Was going to ask John about it, but never got around to it.
edit: And how does fungus play into whether or not a shoe is a good all-day shoe or even the fit of the shoe?! Ana knows all - go get it fixed, dudes! Yikes!
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Aug 28, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
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I have an idea, but since I am spun on meds for the past few weeks... My ideas are not much good. Since this needs an expert opinion, I just sent an email to Lisa Karafa so she could figure it out for you.
Big Smiles,
Anastasia
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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:19pm PT
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+1 for Scarpa Technos. I saw them, asked for my street shoe size, tried them on and they are everything I have been looking for in an all day crack shoe.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
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Anastasia, Nefarious et al,
Really seriously, should you wear socks with your climbing shoes ?
No question is a bad question, right ? : }
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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Scarpa Technos are the best trad shoe I have ever used. No, I don't wear them with socks.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
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Ill chime in with a 4th on the Scarpa technos. Ive always loved my mythos for comfort and all-day cragging (now on 5th pair), but always felt a pair of miuras I had years ago were notably more 'precise'. I recently described the technos to a climbing partners as a mythos-miura hybrid - that is, precision of a miura without the aggressive toe. I have to wear flat toed shoes due to arthritis in my big toe, but from your description its sounds like its what your looking for too. Fairly symmetric toe box could be good for your alien-esque toe condition as well! As for fungus and stink - I do wear socks (thin liners) with all climbing shoes, but primarily for the extra layer of protection that offer my baby soft feet. Ive been doing it for so long, I nearly can't climb without them. One partner I climb with sports tube socks (occasionally with stripes!)
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
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Really, thanks, Donini and K. looks like no one but you will talk socks and I am a bloody newbie. 'Preciate the comments. lrl
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Aug 29, 2008 - 02:16am PT
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These will be out in November. Very nice.
Sorry 'bout the plug....heh heh
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Aug 29, 2008 - 04:05am PT
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Hey Bachar!
You forgot to give us information about the Purple Acopa shoes posted above...
What are they?
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Lynne,
The salt of life itself... I don't know why you can't wear socks. I asked many "good" climbers that very same question. Most of them said it was just a preference.
I heard socks "are suppose" to make your foot slip a bit more inside the shoe, which could effect your precision. There is no actual scientific data to support this but a few people swear by this.
I just figured that shivering from the cold is more likely to effect the ability to be precise than the loss of compression/friction inside the shoe from wearing socks.
You know....
I remember being forced to wear shoes one size too small for my feet. Then, after repeatedly having to cut my climbing time short because my feet were getting literally destroyed, I thought... What is the point? If How the heck am I suppose to concentrate on climbing over my foot pain? It would get so bad I couldn't walk. I saw no real benefits for me from the tight fit so I never bothered with it again.
Then on a really cold day while shivering on the rock. I started wearing socks. I learned to like doing that.
Now my rules are; wear shoes that are comfortable. If they stretch too loose, go buy a new pair a little bit smaller. Use the big pair for cold days when wearing socks. If you want to wear socks all the time, wear socks, etc...
AF
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2008 - 09:04am PT
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These will be out in November. Very nice.
That's what I'm talking about [Acopa pic omitted].
As far as toe nail fungus goes, mine is getting under control by following the JStan dictum of grinding the nail down using 60 grit sandpaper, getting the nail as short as possible, and treating with tee tree oil. The pain has been significantly reduced to the point where climbing shoes only bring normal pain levels. I'm lightly sanding every night to increase the tee tree oil absorbsion and I apply the oil two times per day.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 29, 2008 - 10:14am PT
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These will be out in November. Very nice
Fire's live!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 29, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
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Lynne - I don't see anything wrong with wearing socks with your shoes. I have worn super thin, poly socks in the winter before. Something like cycling socks. I do wear socks sometimes when I'm planning on climbing wide cracks. Most times I do not wear socks, however, as I feel it compromises my ability to "feel" the rock. Just an extra barrier that tends to slide around and inhibit if you're doing technical stuff.
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