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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
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Breathe, review the basics, learn how to use a rack and take it...
also, don't climb with that guy.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
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I like the way the videographer immediately drops the camera to offer assistance, jeez, who was the real meathead here?
"Let me zoom in on the blood, can you turn this way please..."
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
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As I sit here nursing my own broken talus, that was rather uncomfortable to watch. However, I'm with Fet; my favorite part is where he says "I think I broke my foot again." So who are you are all to say he doesn't know what he was doing? Sounds like he knew exactly what he was doing - breaking his foot AGAIN!! And Dr. Rock, the videographer knew that the guy trying to help stand the leader up on his feet clearly had things under control.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:09pm PT
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Good point, willow hug boy.
Anybody who breaks their foot twice, just gotta know what they are doing. Important safety note, all!
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drgonzo
Trad climber
east bay, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:27pm PT
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Dumbass.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
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I think this thread may be even funnier by my NOT bothering to load the video.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:33pm PT
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If you watch the video closely during the fall you can see his top piece pull out. It looks to be about chest height when he was standing on the pillar. The rope is visible as a sharp angle, then disappears. I think you can sort of see the runner as he climbs up from the pillar as well, though that is not as clear. So he placed a bad piece from the rest and could not let go long enough to place another one. His partners were not yelling at him to place more gear, so I suspect none of them were terribly experienced on trad. It does not look like he even attempts to place more gear, so it is hard to know if he fully realized his danger.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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Idiot for sure, and you know it coz.
There were ample places to stop and place a piece. That guy had no buisness running it out like that. He was damn lucky.
Only pros should run it out like that ......
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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When he's about 6-8 feet off the pillar I can't shut off my reflex to tell him to put in something.
Then it's hard to watch his feet sketching on several lieback moves in a row when he had a bomber footjam everywhere to just stand up and rest and shake it out and place something, etc....
It was more hard for me to watch the lead-up to the main event than the fall itself.
Edit: I've done plenty of stupid stuff while climbing. But unnecessarily running out sections with solid gear when I'm shaky on the climbing is not one of them.
Edit edit: But I have proceeded on climbs with crappy gear when I'm iffy on the climbing... introspective moment... no, it was just a burp.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
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what an amateur, no sense of fall distance and placing pro.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
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hey there ... say, just my odd comment here, hope i am not out of line... but say:
since you all are able to see what he was unlearned and unskilled to, is there anyway that you can post a "share note on this subject" over at the you-tube, and perhaps WARN him on some of these key issues---or is that one of those "they will just tear your comments to pieces" kind of place.... ?
going by what you all have chipped in here, it is very sad to think he may one day die before he reaches his proper decernment level (edit, not meaning to insult the young man, but, going by what folks feel the web cam showed, etc)...
well, was just wondering... maybe he will take a peek at supertopo some day? (edit, or places where folks can help coach?)... maybe a simple invite, may help? ....
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Aug 25, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
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Ground fall you die. Why did he not place a cam in the good crack for God's sake so close to terra firma
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Aug 25, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
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All Hail to Weschrist and Werner who obviously have never made a mistake while climbing, and have always used all good prudence in every decision they have made in climbing and in life. I'm sorry you guys but your self-righteousness and insensitivity with regards to this incident is stunning. Lighten Up !!!!
Cracko
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 25, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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Which route is it, again?
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:59am PT
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The route is called "AManHasGotToKnowHisLimitations"
From Joe's Jottings:
"Ignorance vs Stupidity
I'm ignorant.
I know nothing about nuclear fusion.
I am absolutely unknowledgeable about the grocery business.
I am ignorant.
Ignorance is not a bad thing.
We are all ignorant about something or somethings.
I don't mind being ignorant, since nobody knows all there is to know about everything ('though some would lead you to believe that they do).
What I hate is STUPIDITY.
STUPIDITY is constantly ignoring the facts, acting like the facts have no significance or being unable to draw a correct conclusion from a given set of facts."
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Doug Buchanan
Mountain climber
Fairbanks Alaska
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Aug 26, 2008 - 04:27am PT
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"Learn to climb from a guide."? "Learn to climb from a guide."?
Coz must be a guide, like a politician suggesting that you learn the truth from politicians.
I learned how to fight wars from the best guides the US government claims. And we have lost every war since WWII (minimum ten and counting).
Never learn from a guide. Their interest is money, not knowledge, or they would be advancing their knowledge rather than making money from having learned just enough to fool fools for their money.
Is it not interesting that the transfer of knowledge by male-preference words is being again over-taken by the transfer of knowledge by female-preference pictures (YouTube)? You have no choice in the matter, by design of your brain. As a generality, females learned more knowledge from that video, than males, regardless of the words the males add.
Yet another reason to climb solo on a Soloist, so your inherent percentage of mistakes in a dangerous game are not witnessed to embarrass you.
The guy was an idiot for allowing the camera person to have a video rather than a still camera, or not having sufficient information to cause the camera person to conclude the wisdom of not publishing the footage.
That was obviously a very common fall. Without them, you would have pursued a more dangerous hobby, or you would not be a climber.
Doug
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 26, 2008 - 08:09am PT
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The guy had gear opportunities...That had to hurt.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 26, 2008 - 10:44am PT
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I watched all 3 youtube videos and all I can say is IDIOTS one and all. No excuses..I am glad they all lived but at this rate it won't be long before the don't.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
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Doug-
Well Coz is indeed a guide but give me a break. Half the people on this forum have probably guided or done some instruction at one point or another. I flailed around with my teenage friends and nearly killed ourselves plenty of times until I got some guide instruction which gave me a solid foundation of experience to safely work from. Saying "never hire a guide" is like saying "never go to college" or "never seek instruction from professionals."
Basically, you must not actually know any guides, or else you never would have made such a ridiculous statement.
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