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orange crush
Boulder climber
ca
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Mar 25, 2008 - 01:21am PT
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I would go barefoot but thats not always plausable but i like these instead, http://www.teva.com/images/products/AllColorCombos/6309-MDNV-PROD.jpg
they are a pair of teva water shoes, it feels like your not wearing shoes at all in the idea that u can flex your feet and shoes to boulder hop, but still a little protection from sharp rocks and such. at first my feet had muscle soreness from having no support but now i can hike miles in them without problems. and i got them at the rei used gear sale for like 9 bucks so you cant beat that
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 25, 2008 - 01:40am PT
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I'd have to disagree with TiG, I had a pair of Keen Newports and used them for a couple summers. They are hot, they get dirty, and the rubber is crap. They work great in rivers for rafting or fishing, but approaches/descents on granite they stink!
I didn't notice just how bad they were until I got some Chacos with stealth rubber soles. Beat the Keens in every area. Cooler, rocks didn't get stuck as easy and were easier to dislodge, waaaaay better rubber. And the Keens stink more than the Chacos too. Your feet get dirty either way. I don't wear sandals with socks. That's a doofus move.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 25, 2008 - 02:07am PT
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5.10 Insight
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 25, 2008 - 10:57am PT
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I like my Cirque Pros a lot. Can't speak to the cold issue, though. I've used them extensively for a year in Josh and Christmas Tree Pass and they have stood up very well.
They have just been resoled by Dave Page in Seattle. He put vibram soles on them, which he says will last longer than the original La Sportiva rubber, so they'll be given a trial by fire this weekend.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Mar 25, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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flyers were the best! I never found the 5.10s to be a durable. The scramblers look cool.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 25, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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I had Bart Hersey make me a pair for the Sierras. I have a modified high-top: all leather, with a rand. They saved my backcountry career. Climb great. They last about three times as long as a high quality trail runner.
http://www.herseycustomshoe.com/products.html
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FullMonty
Trad climber
Originally from IN - Now living in Leadville, CO
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Mar 25, 2008 - 11:40am PT
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Apogee,
Dunno if you have looked at the Sportiva B5's, but they are pretty good. They edge increadibly well, smear ok and if you get the right size, long aproaches are no prob. I have done routes on Half Dome and woth these exclusively. The biggest down side is the high price, but if you guide you should be able to pro deal em.
I have also climbed in the Cirques and the 5.10 guide tennies and they were both pretty good as well, but my vote goes for the B5's.
peace
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 25, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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La Sportiva forgot how to make good approach shoes with a tongue skirt and all. Cirque Pro- I ripped thru two pair in one summer cause I was stupid enought to buy em again.
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ec
climber
ca
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Mar 25, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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"Guide tennies, huh if they last more than 100yds. of walking your pretty lucky, if they last a week...wow!" - dave
Personally, I've had great luck with the last two versions of the 5.10 Guide Tennie. I admit that the last version needed some pre-Seam Grip, however
they have been my favorite approach and wall shoe ('have had LS Boulders and the likes and nothing compares)!
Guide Tennies in action:
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Mar 25, 2008 - 01:38pm PT
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I have a pair of Scarpa approach shoes [low top, blue suede uppers] and I dislike them. Too heavy, too stiff, and they hurt my feet. After three years, I'm still trying to wear them on occasion.
With that said, I know quite a few people that love the same shoe.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 25, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Had a couple pairs of 5.10s and they were very poorly made and fell apart.
Currently have the Evolv Stryker and like its fit and performance on rock/scrambling. It is well made and rubber is excellent.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Mar 25, 2008 - 03:07pm PT
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Evolv Rex
5.10 Camp Four
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
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Mar 25, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
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I have a pair of 5.10 Guide Allmighty's. I was never thrilled with them (a bit too bulky and mushy), but I used them a lot for some backcountry mountaineering. I did get 'em resoled. Not bad as a backup.
I now primarily use Montrail CTC's. I like them a lot so far.
But those Acopa Scramblers look enticing!
Fletch
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mar 25, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
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Scarpa "Quest"=quality
5.10 "Guide Tennie"=another good company
La sportiva "Cirque Pro"= Italian made/china made
Montrail "Flow" =new
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Mar 25, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
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This is all mostly useless without knowing what shape your foot is. Patagonia Finns would never fit my wide fore-footed buniony narrow-heeled high-arched feet (5.10 womens' venture mids work well for me) but my skinny as heck, low volumed-footed boyfriend loves them. Y'know?
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
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Mar 25, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
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I tried those Cirque pros and they aren't that sticky, actually. Not enough toe box room.
Surprised no one has mentioned the Garmont Sticky Cat: http://www.garmontusa.com/581010203.html
Sticky and comfortable too. Great Teton shoes as they have some cushion. I'll have a look at those Acopas too- seems like I go through a pair a year, regardless of how well they are made. The stickiest ones I ever had were the old nike air exum and cinder cones. I left them up at high camp in the Tetons so I could use them for just climbing shoes, not for the nasty approach.
Guide almighties were good too, but lost any sort of support after 3 years or so, even with an orthotic they make my feet hurt any more.
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Mar 25, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
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D7's climb well but wore out fast on the Grand Teton and running down from the summit after Epinephrine. My first approach shoe.
CTC's jammed my big toenail so I had to get a bigger size and then my heel was all saggy. Then they wore out after one season in the Wasatch and one trip to Lone Peak.
The Garmont's were nice and held up for a season and a half. The Elephant's Perch killed them but I still use them when its muddy. Used them this morning cleaning out a crack and they did very well positioning for cleaning that dirty thing out.
But I really love the 5.10 Camp 4's the most. They are burlier, have more support and better rubber than the others. I treat them special.
I really need to get a stiffer boot for those longer approaches. Something actually made to hold up to heavy loads.
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Highlander
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 25, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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I still have a pair of nike cinder cones in service that I use every once in a while, I have to use lots of shoe gu to keep the toe together but they have been up El Cap several times.
Currently have the Evolv Stryker and they are holding up well, actually did some trail running in them yesterday as part of the approach to climbing, and they were fairly comfortable.
Had a pair of Sportiva B3's and they were blown after climbing Mescalito, not comfortable at all.
For long approaches I like a good pair of trail runners, and sometimes resole the front with the 5.10 resole kits and they make good approach shoes.
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