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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Little kids are light, so they don't test his crap setups very much.
Do write to expertvillage!
This guy is a menace.
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ec
climber
ca
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Brought to you by:
"The Climbing School of Natural Selection"
I fear for the unsuspecting that follow his 'instruction.'
 ec
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FinnMaCoul
Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
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No way. That's not amusing in the least.
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ec
climber
ca
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I just gave the guy a personal email to cease and desist with the misinformation and to with all due respect...
get some formal instruction!
ec
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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What is really scary is he cant remember his own acronyms.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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...or at least get a good book.
Slakkey, I almost felt sorry for the guy trying to remember his acronyms. Hell, can't he edit the video and do it right instead of looking like an unreliable fool?
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FullMonty
Trad climber
Lanesville IN
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It really is mind bottling. If anyone knows a good hitman in the austin area, they should contact him asap. Either that or one of his "chalks" blows and some "nice Chirstian kids" eat it
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
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I like how his first nut placement rips, LOL.
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bwancy1
Trad climber
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I often use a lump of chalks when there are no clips on the cliff face.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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why all the negativity?
at least when he puts those lockers in the bolts he puts the locking gates "safely facing away from the wall".
too many climbers out there anyway-
maybe the real problemn w/ his system is that he uses a biner for the anchor point?
just pull that rope right through, ya got 2 pieces of webbing, yer good ta go!
hmm- i wonder if that guy lives near lois, and would sell a gift certificate for guiding services?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Expert Village appears to be gathering place for Village Idiots, if these yukkers are any measure of the expertise we can expect. That place needs to update their zoning laws. But hey, its the Internet, we are all experts here. 2000 years after the Roman Empire and its still caveat emptor, dude.
As far as the American Death Triangle goes, some of the reactions are a tad hysterical, no? Have any Americans actually met their death at the hands of this perfidious triangle? I mean, the ADT is certainly a dumb way to use the materials you have at hand, it lacks redundancy when you could have it at no additional cost, it is a failure at load distribution in the sense that the load to each anchor can never be less than the load applied to the power point (at least in the ideal case when there is no friction at the bolts), and it would produce a shock load if one of the anchors fails. That said, rappelling and top-roping loads shouldn't exceed three, maybe four times body weight, and the illustrated bolts and double one-inch webbing slings are certainly up to far more than that. I ain't sayin' any of this is good, and it is absurd to actually promote it, but you don't have one foot in the grave and the other on a bananna peel of you rap off that rig either. Perhaps the weakest feature is not the ADT, but the single locker...
I guess I'm saying that the cause of safety isn't really well-served by screaming that the sky is falling at every breach of optimal practice. Perhaps this is a result of not really understanding the systems we use, instead taking the word of some other "expert," presumably in no way associated with the Expert Village, as a kind of gospel that must not be violated---and please do not ask why.
It does seem to me that we live in an age in which we are surrounded by and reliant on technology we do not understand, and in the face of our ignorance, we find ourselves in the role of primitives, operating on new-age superstition and the words of modern witch doctors. But this guy is such an egregious example of incompetence masquerading as expertise that I found myself wondering if it is all a put-on. How could he leave in the aimless, spastic, functionally blind fiddling with the nut (the chalk, that is) and the predictable, if still hilarious, failure of the resulting placement? Aren't witch doctors supposed to hide the evidence of their fallibility?
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
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i think he is either joking or is mentally slow. neither is an excuse for poor teaching practice. i almost think they are all a joke because of the opposite and opposed carabiners. how is it possible to mess that up?
edit i think the major concern is that this guy is calling himself a guide and teaching this stuff to his unsuspecting pupils, and that's unacceptable.
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cintune
climber
Penn's Woods
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Yep, the rc thread covers all of this already, including multiple emails to the dude, who claims his "expert village" buds with the movie cameras put him up to it all, and this:
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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I don't think anyone is going to die anytime soon on those TR setups.
The sum of all his errors is small compared to the dangers of just 1 piece of bad gear on lead.
It's a rather intersting part of the climber ego, I think, to get all bothered by this kind of person.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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"As far as the American Death Triangle goes, some of the reactions are a tad hysterical, no? Have any Americans actually met their death at the hands of this perfidious triangle?"
Using a death triagle probably won't kill you, but it's use demonstrates a carelessness and lack of knowledge. It's the attitude that will kill you, eventually... maybe.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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It's not just the ADT. It's errors in nearly EVERY one of the videos I saw, like the opposite and opposed biner demo (they were not opposite and opposed). The errors do add up, and there are a lot to add.
Besides, maybe THAT ADT won't kill you, but what if someone learns it from him, then sets a gear anchor with the same ADT? Maybe then the force multiplier does em in. Well they COULD have learned the V setup, and been a lot better off.
Why some of you want to poo-poo the issue is beyond me. Might as well say, it's never a big deal. Well, it isn't a big deal til something goes wrong, and then the dumb butt is dead or really hurt.
Yeah, you can clip in instead of tying in, it will work most of the time. But once in a while, it fails. Yeah you can get away with chaining biners, cause it only fails once in a while. Seting improper opposite and opposed biners will almost never fail, but it can. Biner gates facing the rock only biters you on the a$$ if you are very unlucky, and fall in just the right way that the biner slaps the rock and opens, and even then you hvae to have enough force to snap the spine of the biner-- not very likely to happen, but when it does, and IT DOES happen, then you are dead.
All these things add up to general incompetence, and the attitude that it's no big deal smacks of complacency, which gets you just as dead as dumba$$ed noobery.
You know who lowered me off the end of the rope, letting the end run out his belay device? A famous, daring, highly respected southern climber, that's who. You wanna know how I hit the ground from lead my one and only time to ever hit the ground while leading a trad climb? It was cause I got really stupid and complacent.
Yes, it usually takes a lot to get hurt climbing, (and usually you never even know how close you were to doom, if you've been doing something stupid for years and getting by with it) but if you are unlucky, it takes very little, and only one failure is all it takes.
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