Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2007 - 02:43am PT
|
"If the roadside crack is Wishon 5.10a then Wishon deserves mention in the sandbagged area thread."
Hahahaha... You must not climb OW very often, donutnational! If you don't think that's .10a, then maybe you should try the Bridwell 5.8 next to Bishop's Terrace (also around the corner from C.B. Tree and Energizer) next time you're in Yos.
I used to think the same thing... It's starting to make sense. Painful sense, but sense.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
hell
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2007 - 10:59am PT
|
"He has a tendency to sandbag, especially on wide stuff, so it could be a bit stiffer than .10a." or
"Hahahaha... You must not climb OW very often, donutnational! If you don't think that's .10a, then maybe you should try the Bridwell 5.8 next to Bishop's Terrace (also around the corner from C.B. Tree and Energizer"
Which one is accurate nef?
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2007 - 11:54am PT
|
Tongue and cheek, meant more for harassing him than anything. I used to think it was harder than .10a too. If you really think it's some super sandbag, go climb Generator Crack (.10c) and then come back and talk to me. I suspect that if you think the roadside crack is harder than .10a, Generator Crack will spank you pretty good.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
|
Thx Tmoses.
I'll check those out at seuss wall...
But on this topo... some updates...
1) many variations to the shown lines (including an additional set of anchors - left to right anchors are 1 bolt, 3 bolts, 3 bolts, 2 bolts)
2a) left of the 5.7 crack ... start on 5.7 crack, then move left to other crack feature.
2) Tope rope problem - right of the 5.7 crack at the right side... going straight over the roof. boulder move to get over roof. harder if shorter. 10+/11?
3) right side of the roof, finger crack 5.6 thru the roof, but easy to cheat some on the right to make it easier.
|
|
MB of the Central Valley
climber
kingsburg, CA
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
|
Bump... It's that time of year and Courtright may or may not be open this weekend.
|
|
salad
climber
Escondido
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
|
cool munge, looks like fun. looking forward to the next hook up, bro.
edit - just realized this was a bump. above sentiments still stand, though.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 01:32am PT
|
nice bump MB
definitely salad
We're heading out to NV, WY and ID thursday, and work trip after that, but end of July early August, uber and I got some ideas for trouble making.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
from the Leastside
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 03:28am PT
|
For bouldering , dam lakes are always usual suspects , such as Caples (Tahoe area) or Grant lake on the East Slope .
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 04:12am PT
|
hey there say all.... wow, i really enjoyed this....
very nice bump...
say, have fun climbling, whereever you all decided to go...
:)
|
|
spenchur
climber
oak park
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
|
bump for wishon!
I got to climb all those practice rock routes and the dr.seuss wall stuff with my dad last summer. the best routes there havent even been mentioned. across the road (west?) from practice rock is a STELLAR short 10a on great rock with little solution pockets. I think it was something called "Holy Moly(?)". And there is one really really really (really) good TR next to the road just before you cross the damn. "falcon's breast" i believe. 25 feet of 11+/12- climbing and some bouldery, fun moves leading to a full on mantel out of an overhang to finish.
this place deserves more cred. those walls west of the road to the power plant have unbelievable lines.
|
|
LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
|
I am too, curious about the history or name of the 5.10 crack (munge's picture of offwidth) over by Wishon res.
I had the good fortune to lead the climb last summer and was scared crapless when I found out the offwidth was too wide for my #4 camalot, and the #7 tricam barely worked!
Fun route nonetheless!
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
|
It looks like this year I'll be doing a lot more at Wishon (maybe even this Saturday -- I hope) this spring. Courtright's parking area is under ten feet of snow as of yesterday, so it will be a while before the road opens.
John
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
|
is wishon accessible yet?
spenchur, one of the pics above is of Holy Moley, IIRC. Nurse Ratchet firing the 10s.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
|
Yes, Munge, Wishon is accessible now. They opened the road a couple of weekends ago, but the campgrounds are still snowbound.
John
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
|
Good looking place, thanks for sharing! Some day....
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
|
Wishon is nice, but further up the hill at Courtright is where "the money" is. Best in the fall though. Usually skeeters like crazy early, hot in July/August, beautiful in September 'till the snow flies.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2011 - 01:23am PT
|
thx JEleazarian!!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!