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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2007 - 03:16am PT
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what was going to be backcountry...
was changed due to this...
which really turned to this...
which turned to this...
anyone know the name of this one?
Munge working crux moves. Didn't get into the meat above. oofa. off the couch.
which turned to this...
which turned to more of this on day 2 ...
Nurse Ratchet on Holey Moley 10a*
16 different climbs in 2 days, mostly TRs and solos. solid for being off for like 4+ weeks. back in it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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You just don't see too many TR's of Wishon, with Courtright so close. The last time I was there with my wife though, I remember looking at a lot of sweet rock. Fishing is probably good too!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Looks like a nice little pocket of rock.
I've never heard of Wishon and I'm a dern' Californian, I am.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Good on you for going after it Munge! Looks like a fun spot.
Steve
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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I love seeing trip reports of areas like that.Places off the beaten path. Right on Munge, looks like great rock!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2007 - 06:18pm PT
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My first time climbing there. Though I've bouldered a little in Woodchuck country.
all BITD and shiz
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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There's no actual name for the route, Munge. It's listed as .10+. My partner Blaine and I say it's .10a. How'd you guys get a rope up there without doing the wide bit? It looks like it would be heinous getting up to the anchor to set a TR without climbing it! Yikes!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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Jo-D, didn't even touch stuff around the bathtub ring. but saw potential. water level is low again.
as for how'd we get the rope up there...
yep, right next to the road...
mungebagged ascent of dirt cliff on left. heinous choss roadcut. not too heinous otherwise to get to the bolts at the lip via the cleft on top. Might check far right side instead next time. Though I did tie into a chockstone with a long bit of cord to slip down and clip the bolts at the lip once inside the cleft. recommend sticky rubber, but not necessary if you're careful.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
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Nef,
yeah, so in the book it has that random '5.10+ cracko' text. It matches the location, so I'm thinking that's what it refers to.
Also, by way of corrections - the photo on the page that describes "The Grotto" for Wishon, is misleading. The topo on the following page is actually the match to that photo.
Not sure where 'The Grotto' is located at this point.
Actually would have loved to get on the 10b on Woodchuck rock. Where is that formation? The guidebook is less than stellar, and something I hate, when it says "this is easily seen from the picnic area".... well duh, but do I need to look left, right or right in the middle. Too much rock not to be specific.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Yeah, the .10+ crack is the right one. It's a great route. Offers a bit of everything, crack-wise. The wide section isn't that bad. I've certainly been on a lot worse in Yos since.
Blaine did the leads on it, I followed. He has a tendency to sandbag, especially on wide stuff, so it could be a bit stiffer than .10a.
The Grotto is the wall to the northwest if you park right at the intersection of the road to the PG&E barracks and the Wishon road going to the roadside crack. If you look up, you'll see the picture in the book. The one that confuses me is #3 in the book. I'll have to give a look at it next time I am up htere. There is tons of potential in the area and I am hoping to get back soon. Shoot me an email next time you're heading up there.
Not sure about woodchuck. Will have to give that one a look too...
The stuff below the water line is sweet! Tons of good crack bouldering. Looks like there's some sweet stuff across the lake. There's some nice OW crack bouldering below water line too. Also some nice stuff out on the high peice of land past the heli-pad too.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
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for sure Nef, that and still have to hit Tollhouse this winter. Not yet been there either.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Tollhouse has some great stuff on the cap rocks! Good face and crack climbing. There is good stuff on the face too, but the cap rocks is where the steep action is.
There is usually an event (Tollhouse Faceoff) the third weekend of October. Maybe you can come down for that?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2007 - 11:46pm PT
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Jo-D,
if you're thinking of the big one, that's Wishon Wall. Woodchuck is around there but I can't match the photo of the two climbs to a subsection of that hillside or even in the foreground.
gotta get back there I guess.
M
ps- 20 and 21 of Oct? Yeah, might be kewl, though I'm not real good with the big party scene. Just depends on the vibe.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Munge - The Faceoff is really mellow these days. Not a huge party scene at all. A number of the locals who put in a good portion of those climbs shows up, along with a few people from various places.
Jody - Woodchuck, in the book, is shown to the west of the dam. The book doesn't list anything east of the dam. If you're talking about the Group Camp spot, which is below and *slightly* east of (in it's shadow really) the dam, then the only wall near there is kingsnake wall. Has a couple of clip-ups, nothing big.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Hmmm... Sounds like we all need to meet at Wishon, compare notes, do some climbing, shoot some photos, etc. I think there's tons of great climbing at Wishon.
And, oh yeah, some cliff diving!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2007 - 07:02pm PT
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Is the road open during winter?
If it's dry, that place has a lot of dark colored rock that faces south.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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The road to Wishon is usually open until Thanksgiving-ish, possibly later, depending on the year. Courtright closes down earlier.
What's annoying about the road to Wishon is that, from what I've seen, it gets plowed, they just lock the gate at Dinkey.
What's a lot of fun is to ski the road to Courtright, before the road opens in the spring. It is usually plowed to the road that goes to the power station, so the last few miles are a nice ski back. It's a beautiful sight coming over the rise seeing Courtright and the domes in snow!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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"The key is to hook up with a PG&E employee and go "visit" them."
Seemed like it would be pretty easy to meet those guys when the bar was open at Wishon, since that was the main clientel. Of course, that was a lot of the reason it was closed too. It could get rowdy in there.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
hell
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If the roadside crack is Wishon 5.10a then Wishon deserves mention in the sandbagged area thread.
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Oct 10, 2007 - 01:26am PT
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I'll post some of my notes on the area and a couple of shots that pale in comparison to Jody's.
Glad you enjoyed the area Munge!
Panorama
Top of Spring Dome:
Island View @ Courtright:
Practice Rock at Wishon:
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Tiger Cage @ Courtright
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Topos:
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Dr. Suess wall is to the left of Green Eggs and Ham as you face the wall. Enjoy.
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