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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 13, 2007 - 01:15pm PT
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An early attempt on the now complete high traverse on Lost Keys. Off balance downward right leaning pulling. Weird.
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 13, 2007 - 01:26pm PT
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Jello,
Definately, awesome rock up in Ogden for bouldering. Some of the best quartzite boulders I've ever seen. Used to boulder in between classes (late '80s, early '90s) while attending the University. I heard all the good landings are due to the work of the Lowes decades ago.
Took two Japanese climbers there while visiting ... they loved it! Good for a day or two. They spent hours at the Lowe Boulder (Platform Boulder?).
BTW, does the Lowe Problem there, when originally done, go straight up to the top or does it veer a little left to the flake near the top? I've always wondered.
The proliferation of graffitti over the last 5-10 years is sure disappointing though.
Enjoy!
burp
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2007 - 01:40pm PT
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Conquistador looks really good...near May Lake right?
Nefarius - near Fresno? I'll have to check it out. Not that volcanic stuff?
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Feb 13, 2007 - 02:00pm PT
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Nefarius, that is at Kitty Dome in Tuolumne. Across the river from the A loop camping. Best bouldering there is still at the Knobs although the bouldering on the Dana plateau is hard to beat for atmosphere.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 13, 2007 - 02:02pm PT
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oh man, Mojede's putting me on the spot here...
I think it's rad that there is interest in the Butte Batholith. It's a hard area to describe, like Moje was saying, because of it's size. Currently we are putting alot of time along a ~20 mile stretch of road that is yeilding many fine 'zones' or clusters. Each little area holds between 20-100 or so problems; it reminds me of Joes Valley in it's corridor style of development. We are in the early stages of development for these areas though.
The most concentrated/developed area in the batholith is known as Whiskey Gulch. It contains (in the guide at least) ~60 boulders and about 300 problems....
I didn't repost any from the 'Later, I'm going climbing' thread, but I may have posted a couple of these in the past...
Whiskey Gulch
Some of the other stuff
Thanks for taking a look. It's cool that some of the posters on here are thinking of making a trip to the backwaters...hit me up, I'll be here....
Cheers,
Tom
BTW, I'm enjoying the other photos being posted....BVB's and HB's shots of the Horn area look soooooo good.
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 13, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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The Inyo Boulders are sweet.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 13, 2007 - 02:58pm PT
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Tking, that third from the bottom crack, manoman!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 13, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
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Jaybro- I've been calling that thing the 'dream crack' hehe
Here is a different view. ~25', fingers to wide hands....
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 13, 2007 - 04:09pm PT
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Is that the same Trimble that took off with my sweet summerweight down bag and left me with his sister's old beater synthetic Windy Pass POS while I was on a wall?
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Broken
climber
Texas
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Feb 13, 2007 - 05:02pm PT
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Ever been to Erock, JB?
Some pretty sweet granite bouldering to be found: Enchanted Rock State Park, a little over an hour from Austin. I rarely hear it mentioned outside of Texas.
25-30ft sustained V3 slab. Cover of the guidebook photo.
http://www.bloodyflapper.com/image.php?image_id=872
EDIT- Hm. My photo post didn't work. Twas my first attempt. Anyway, I don't have any of my own photos handy. Check the above link to see that sick slab.
Here is a thumbnail link with a few dozen photos.
http://www.bloodyflapper.com/areas/thumbz.php?area_id=5
And the above doesn't even include any shots of the bunch of sweet, short solos (30-40 ft cracks) that Erock offers.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 13, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
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Gloucester, MA...good bouldering (and great fish!)
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 13, 2007 - 06:08pm PT
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TKingsbury,
Was passing through Helena years ago ... out west of town there ... are the boulders there still accessible? Looked like a lot of development (housing that is) was going on.
burp
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 13, 2007 - 06:32pm PT
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G Gnome,
Bouldering on the Dana Plateau? My recollection of that place was flat smooth tundra. Not that I'd hike that far to boulder, but I've been meaning to go back just for the setting.
As far as other cool looking venues, never been able to figure out that area in the San Bernardinos that they published photos of in a Climbing article on Dale Bard a few years back.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 13, 2007 - 06:33pm PT
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Burp, the area you saw is known as the "Blue Cloud Spires". When climbers started frequenting there, they parked at the old one room school house on the Highway and went in from there, legally. Because of the housing that you mentioned, that school house property was sold and access was shut down. Randall, Jake, and other Helena locals pursued other access points and found a "back" way in behind the RV Campground. Check FA Press's new Helena guide for directions and beta if back in the area.
That granite is the North extension of the Boulder Batholith which stretches all the way South to the Humbug Spires. Hope this helps.
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 13, 2007 - 06:48pm PT
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mojede,
Thanks for the info.
I've seen the granite and such along the way between Butte and Helena. Is there much bouldering around the little town of Boulder as you come out of the canyons headed north toward Helena?
What about just out of Helena heading toward Great Falls at the reservoir? It looks like some pretty cool cliffs coming out of the water (limestone?).
The Humbug spires ... out east of a rest stop on I-15 between Dillan and Butte? Looks pretty cool from the freeway.
Maybe I should just pick up the guide, eh!
Enjoy!
burp
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2007 - 07:20pm PT
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Klinefelter - dam nice photo there! Inyo boulders - where dat?
E rock - no but I've heard about it - looks kind JTree-ish...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 13, 2007 - 07:36pm PT
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Burp,
Unfortunately, the little hamlet of Boulder is disappointing compared to the rest of the Batholith. That's not to say that it sucks, just that the rock is of lesser quality and more sporadically located--also, very few (if any) climbers go there, probably because of the aforementioned reason. Around Basin (between Boulder and Butte), the quality improves, as well as the abundance and accessability. It is legal to leave a vehicle unattended (not "parked") for 48 hours along the interstate, as long as one stays on the shoulder tarmac. Helpful beta when on I-15 or I-90 passing through the "lith'".
Most of the climbable limestone around Helena is of good quality, being dark grey and compact (think Verdon with more choss). Access to much of the appealling crags you saw is difficult, unless approached with a boat. The Helena guide is comprised mostly of Limestone routes.
The Humbug Spires are in a separate FA press guide to the Butte area and is one of the oldest climbing venues in Montana. Due to property changes shutting off access, many of the old formations see little or no traffic and are almost lost to history--hopefully they will be "re-discovered" with techy (Google Earth) approach beta.
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salad
climber
San Diego
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Feb 13, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
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coz daddy
yabo roof(shitty pic)
a vid of part of the PL travers
{Links to jeff n jen dot com have been disabled. Google reports the site is distributing malware. 6-4-13 st} /plt.htm
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Rankin
climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 13, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
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If you're looking to check out the SE, Boone has the best summer conditions of anywhere back there, and a diversity of tasty rock (no sandstone though). And while you're there, you can check out Linville Gorge, maybe the best adventure climbing in the East, especially for 3rd class outings. Check out http://www.ncbouldering.com
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Wes Allen
Boulder climber
KY
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Feb 13, 2007 - 08:52pm PT
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The southeat has some of the best bouldering in the world, but the weather can suck. If you catch any of the major areas with good conditions, you will be rewarded!
Rocktown:
Hound ears
Grandmother
Blowing rock
HP-40
More here:
http://www.knowchaos.com/photos/thumbnails.php?album=2
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