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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Dec 29, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
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50 coats spar varnish
Apply with a foam roller...it'll look so good
Kinda like a surfboard
Oil base but smell dissipates fast
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Dec 29, 2017 - 07:02pm PT
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Just sand it and call it good. When the plywood becomes too manky just get another sheet. Should last a couple of years.It's not that expensive.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Dec 29, 2017 - 07:16pm PT
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I used dirty motor oil on my camper plywood...It's mold resistant and eventually the smell goes away unless you have a leaking valve cover gasket....rb
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 29, 2017 - 07:16pm PT
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F*#k it, cover it with carpet! After some of the finishes suggested, it will be too smooth to sleep on except for a dead flat parking space, which never happens.
So yeah, a lot of guys just slap some carpet in there or at least a non slip rug. Perfect way to top off all that labor and expense for a finish - for a frig'n piece of veneer plywood.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Dec 29, 2017 - 07:37pm PT
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Just paint it. Use the same water-based latex paint you use to paint the bathroom walls.
Should work fine, unless you've found an especially finely figured piece of plywood, and you don't want to hide the beauty of the wood grain.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Dec 29, 2017 - 07:40pm PT
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Urine. Lots of it.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 29, 2017 - 07:54pm PT
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Overeducated gross materialists can't do simple things.
That's why the world is so fuked up ......
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Dec 29, 2017 - 08:05pm PT
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gross materialist illeterate still has boots full of piss cause he can't read directions on bottom of heel...
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Dec 29, 2017 - 08:13pm PT
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carpet tiles, retained in place by an edge frame, can be quickly removed/stacked/stored, cleaned & replaced ... preserving your options
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 08:35pm PT
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If you are trying to seal some wood that won't be exposed to the elements and you are interested in low toxicity consider a few coats of Benite. Benite is a penetrating sanding sealer that is usually used to even out porous wood surfaces for staining and sanding.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Dec 29, 2017 - 09:08pm PT
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I'm really stunned here what with 42 posts on how to sleep in the back of a f*#king truck.
In the first place, you are way more likely to get sick of the rig and quit using it long before the plywood gets weird.
If it really bothers you - tape the edges with Gorilla Tape.
Or put some carpet wrapped foam over the thing and use a damn laundromat once in a while.
And put some fresh batteries in your goddamn multimeter while you're at it.
and yes...get off my lawn.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
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Rincon's suggestion seems right on to me.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2017 - 10:34pm PT
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I'm really stunned here what with 42 posts on how to sleep in the back of a f*#king truck.
Sleeping in the back of the truck is the easy part, and has been done many times...more of a wood working question at hand, out of curiosity, from someone who likes to make an effort to make things last that I make / buy.
I used some wood filler to fix a few problem spots that splintered, and sanded the whole thing down to 220. It's really nice now. Perhaps I shouldn't over think it, and just sand down again as necessary. The original plan was to just carpet it, but my wife liked the wood look, so down the rabbit hole I go...
Having used linseed oil in the past, it seems to leave a bit of a tacky residue which isn't ideal for a sleeping surface (getting onto sleep pads / bags). Perhaps I applied it too thickly before? Is tung oil any different?
Steve, Benite looks interesting. From a quick read it seems that it is usually used to prep wood before staining, but you're saying a few coats of this and call it good?
The epoxy route is interesting. Having used both polyester and epoxy resins for surfboards the toxic level between the two is dramatically different (epoxy being better).
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Dec 30, 2017 - 08:07am PT
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Cool, a Tacoma!
Totally invalid without pics. You should be banned.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Dec 30, 2017 - 08:34am PT
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hey kevin, did you name the little wing cliff?
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Dec 30, 2017 - 08:55am PT
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and a happy one to you, and truck sleepers around the world
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Dec 30, 2017 - 09:23am PT
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gotta agree with ricky d
briham..
your time could be better spent
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 30, 2017 - 09:50am PT
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...but my wife liked the wood look, so down the rabbit hole I go... Quit while you're ahead.
It's slightly non trivial to avoid the splotchy look when fishing an assembled piece of pine furniture. Google Images is helpful for the good and bad. It could very quickly end up looking like a$$. That said, a clear top coat finish, if you insist, is going to be best. If you are looking to add some color, the difficulty increases considerably - especially when working with a frig'n piece of veneer plywood.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Dec 30, 2017 - 10:10am PT
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Virtually any wood finishing product rated for interior use will be fine once cured after a week or so. Many of the "low-voc" oil-based films and stains are simply garbage that never, ever, ever, dry correctly. The latex/water based films on the other hand I've found to be pretty good.
I'd throw down a good high-voc poly blend rated for floors and just wait a few weeks before using it.
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