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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 29, 2017 - 10:19am PT
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I just built a bed sleeping platform for the back of my Tacoma and I am wondering what wood sealer I should use to treat the plywood? Seems most sealers out there are super toxic, and the last thing I want is to get cancer or have my first kid turn out to be a sport climber from my wife and I sleeping in there with fumes (just kidding, about the sport climbing, just didn't even want to mention any real birth defects). Or when these sealers dry and air out are they safe and I'm just over thinking it?
I did Google this first....just figured someone on here would have already gone through this.
Thanks in advance
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unlocked gait
Gym climber
the range
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Dec 29, 2017 - 10:23am PT
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linseed oil cut with spirits.
why do you need to seal if it's in a shell?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2017 - 10:24am PT
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It is in a shell, but figured there will be condensation from sleeping in there, and sealing is easy enough to do to protect it for the long haul.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 10:31am PT
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Some very good water based products out there.
I’ve used Target Coatings for many years but they’re mostly mail order.
A few retailers carry them. But the toxic ones will off gas rapidly and I
wouldn’t lose any sleep lying on them after a few days.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 10:46am PT
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The areas that will be most susceptible to water exposure will be the panel ends at the tailgate, whether from condensation, rain, or drips from the top of the open rear window. If you're using plywood, then half of the exposed edges will be end grain, and tough to seal. I haven't been favorably impressed by the durability of "marine" varnishes in this application, and have been even less favorably impressed by the water-based versions. My recommendation: Z-poxy finishing resin. That will eliminate the fume exposure, too.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Dec 29, 2017 - 10:49am PT
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Forget the spirits or thinner--both toxic.
There are a variety of oils that will do the job. We use teak oil on many marine applications for it's warm appearance, and ease of application.
Widely available.
Just make sure you give it time to soak in and dry (at least a week), so it doesn't stain things.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Dec 29, 2017 - 11:10am PT
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Warbler, you are right, although teak oil would countain less than a 50% dilution. I'd use the oils undiluted, I think, for this application. Maybe even just cheap mineral oil.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Dec 29, 2017 - 11:14am PT
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dusty roads + residual oilyness = dirty laundry.
learned that on wooden crossbeams under a trailered catamaran that i towed off pavement
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 29, 2017 - 11:34am PT
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I wouldn't do anything other than a few passes with a sander to prevent slivers. The sanded bare look is pretty common in DIY truck campers.
Pretty much all your options will outgass, leave residue, smell, and take time, money and supplies to apply that you likely don't have if you're asking, etc.
Your truck is going to be a rusty pile of scrap metal long before the typical life span of a piece of furniture.
Also note you won't be able to safely burn or even recycle your project in the future if you finish it, it will most likely end up in a landfill.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Dec 29, 2017 - 11:39am PT
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I'd probably either leave it unfinished or just let whatever you're using outgas for a week after using it. Beyond that, unless you're planning on living in it 24x7 for the next couple years, I wouldn't worry about fumes after the initial period.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 29, 2017 - 01:22pm PT
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Just a thought... The plywood in mine didn't have any real problems with mold after it got wet. The 2x4 pine underneath however got nasty. So either you'll breath mold or fumes if using pine supports and have a leak.
Taco4lyfe!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 29, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
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First coat it with Smith's Penetrating Clear Epoxy, two part that will quickly, in one application create a non permeable protective layer. Next coat with a water based clear or satin or whatever the desired sheen Polyurethane. Sand that back lightly, in reality just scratch the surface, with 220 and apply at least one more coat and in essence you will have a protective layer equal to 7-8 coats of varnish or polyurethane.
Easy to keep clean, no problem with sticky oils that collects all the fluff and dirt and a lasting protective cover.
The Smith's Epoxy, as with most epoxies, does not have UV filters built into and needs the protective layer of several coats of polyurethane. Available in either cold or hot weather formula.
That base also works wonders if you desire to paint over it. In fact on a boat, for any exposed outside painting the undercoat of penetrating epoxy is a necessity for longevity and recoat purposes.
I tested every available clear penetrating epoxy on the market with a variety of coverlng agents from varnish to polyurethane and found for non-nautical applications the urethane is the best. Non-nautical meaning inside, out of the weather. I left the test pieces outside in the sun and rain for 2 years to gain a reliable exposure scenario. I never use polyurethanes outside on boats for the simple reason they are impossible to strip back and recoat like a good high quality varnish.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 29, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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F*#k it, cover it with carpet!
Probably the simplest and cheapest way to go..........
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 05:34pm PT
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Any of the oil finishes have residual fumes and smells for quite a while if you are sleeping on them. They stay a little tacky, especially anything with linseed oil. Spar varnishes and marine varnishes same thing, stay tacky. Polyurethane is ok, but I would opt for a epoxy based finish. Its the most durable, and if you kick it off with high heat by sealing up the back of your truck and putting a heater in there to bring the temp way up, you can crosslink it so its fully cured. Super durable abrasion resistant.
These are from my experiences as a antique refinisher/restorer.
I like the carpet idea personally!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
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Yes, tung oil is great. But it seems to take a long time for it not to have odor. So if you are sleeping with your nose 6 inches away from the board, it might be a little nasty for a while. If its middle of summer 100 degree heat, its going to kick way faster then middle of winter also.
The oils are great for finely polished surfaces like gun stocks and furniture, but for plywood, its going to suck that stuff up like a sponge and still not have a smooth surface. Plywood is gnarly stuff to finish, painting it may be the best idea even..
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ShawnInPaso
climber
Paso Robles, CA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 06:24pm PT
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Hey Brih -
I built a platform for the back of my Jeep (actually still a work in progress) and used a sheet of rubber on top instead of an oil. I realize there is still some level of toxicity ("The University of California, Davis, places rubber plant in Toxicity Class 4, which is the least-dangerous class of four categories") but it has it's virtues too. Something to consider.
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